Front hub nuts - torque question

[Blink]

I'll try the 2x2 method later on (if I can find something to lash it to the lower arm - I've got a feeling my ropes will just stretch!)

Meanwhile, what puller do I need to separate the drive flange/swivel hub from the drive shaft? Rave p47-2 just says this:



15. Pull hub outward... What with?

And what's the best point to try separating the damper from the swivel hub (using bolt 2)?

[Blink]

Steve & Brian - many thanks for the methods described in your posts 56 & 59 (page 6). I'll try those when I've had a couple of three more teas.

Once the lower arm joint has been separated, what do I need to free the drive flange/swivel from the drive shaft? (post 61)

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Blink

Steve & Brian - many thanks for the methods described in your posts 56 & 59 (page 6). I'll try those when I've had a couple of three more teas.

Once the lower arm joint has been separated, what do I need to free the drive flange/swivel from the drive shaft? (post 61)

It should push out with thumb pressure Simon

Brian

[Arctic]

[QUOTE]

Originally Posted by Blink

Leaving it staked does add to the force needed to crack the nut though.[/QUOTE

]

I agree i was only pointing out that the bar and tube i used removed the nut even if it was still staked, i am not saying it is the correct way or it should be done like that, and the cars were not being used, they were parts cars.

[COLVERT]

Usually it's that super tight nut that holds it all together. Once that's off the hub should slide off quite easily.
It's not designed to be a press fit like some bearings are.--

[Blink]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Usually it's that super tight nut that holds it all together. Once that's off the hub should slide off quite easily.
It's not designed to be a press fit like some bearings are.--

Do you mean the swivel hub & drive flange will come away from the drive shaft once the lower arm ball joint is disconnected and the damper bottom pinch bolt is out? In other words I don't need a hub puller?


PS. I see Jules got the whole caboodle off in one go, including the brake disc and the kitchen sink - see post 2 pic here.

[Mike Noc]

Yes the driveshaft should come out easily once the hub nut is off. If it is tight you can tap it with a drift but note that the driveshaft will bottom out so you have to pull the hub outwards.

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Yes the driveshaft should come out easily once the hub nut is off. If it is tight you can tap it with a drift but note that the driveshaft will bottom out so you have to pull the hub outwards.

the drift being a bit of wood

macafee2

[Blink]

Originally Posted by macafee2

the drift being a bit of wood

macafee2

Time to get your coat Ian.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Blink

I'll try the 2x2 method later on (if I can find something to lash it to the lower arm - I've got a feeling my ropes will just stretch!)

.

Hi Simon.
I presume you have removed or taken off the ABS sensor lead, and the brake hose from the strut.
1

2

Prise up the spring clip holding the hose.
3

Remove with some pliers.
4

After removing the drop link & ball joint undo the strut bolt.
5

Hopefully the hub will then slide off the strut, in your case it maybe best to wait until you have it off the car/ in our case we were changing a front top bearing so did not need to remove the hub off the drive shaft.
6

if you do not need to remove the hub then do it before removing the strut, you will have to support the hub and driveshaft we used a bucket, as you can see the disc etc were still attached.
7

Hopefully the photos will help you in your direction