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Old 7th July 2020, 07:59   #11
KWIL
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+1 similar time and mileage, still going strong. Did flush the master at the same time and still on the original factory fit at 100K+
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Old 7th July 2020, 09:05   #12
livan
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my cdti still has the original clutch and the original slave, with 220,000 km
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Old 7th July 2020, 14:15   #13
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Factory fit slave whent at circa 113k full 3 piece no-name replacement by my then local garage still going fine at 190k + Can't say the same for the friction plate though now slipping under a heavy right foot or a moderate foot when loaded up (but then it's been doing that now for 18 months...) (160 map). If I change the clutch out it'll get a new slave so I'm watching the thread with interest.
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Old 7th July 2020, 15:25   #14
ashy90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWIL View Post
+1 similar time and mileage, still going strong. Did flush the master at the same time and still on the original factory fit at 100K+
How long ago was this fitted, and was it a plastic slave with plastic pipes, plastic slave with metal pipes, or a metal slave?
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Old 7th July 2020, 15:26   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avulon View Post
Factory fit slave whent at circa 113k full 3 piece no-name replacement by my then local garage still going fine at 190k + Can't say the same for the friction plate though now slipping under a heavy right foot or a moderate foot when loaded up (but then it's been doing that now for 18 months...) (160 map). If I change the clutch out it'll get a new slave so I'm watching the thread with interest.
Impressive. Any idea what type of slave - does it have plastic or metal pipes?

I take it this was some years ago?
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Old 7th July 2020, 16:27   #16
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As quoted from above. LUK ..slave. 6 years and 45K miles and still going strong.
Plastic body and metal pipes.
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Old 7th July 2020, 21:15   #17
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Last clutch I fitted for anyone other than myself was an LUK Repset Pro (freelander 1 TD4) to a 75 private hire taxi in October 2017.

I flushed out the master, then removed the piston and cleaned the poppet valve and lubed it up with a smear of Renolit red rubber grease on the seals, then bled the master up before connecting it to the slave pipework.

Last time I drove the car was in May this year, when sorting out an ABS issue for the owner, the car has covered circa 170,000 miles since fitting and it still felt nice.

The trick with these is how you thread the pipework through the hole in the bellhousing........it needs to be done without the use of force.

When it comes to mileage, the car has just shy of 500k on the clock, and this is the third clutch since new

Brian
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Old 7th July 2020, 21:50   #18
Typhoon190
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Am I right in thinking that the original fitment slave cylinders had semi flexible pipes. I wonder whether the insistence to change everything to metal is causing unnecessary strain on the joints when fitting to the gearbox?
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Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Last clutch I fitted for anyone other than myself was an LUK Repset Pro (freelander 1 TD4) to a 75 private hire taxi in October 2017.

I flushed out the master, then removed the piston and cleaned the poppet valve and lubed it up with a smear of Renolit red rubber grease on the seals, then bled the master up before connecting it to the slave pipework.

Last time I drove the car was in May this year, when sorting out an ABS issue for the owner, the car has covered circa 170,000 miles since fitting and it still felt nice.

The trick with these is how you thread the pipework through the hole in the bellhousing........it needs to be done without the use of force.

When it comes to mileage, the car has just shy of 500k on the clock, and this is the third clutch since new

Brian
Evening Brian.

When fitting the slave cylinder to mine I felt it wasn't easy to fit with the metal pipes. I'm sure the originals had semi flexible piping? What's your trick please?
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Old 7th July 2020, 22:17   #19
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Quote:
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Evening Brian.

When fitting the slave cylinder to mine I felt it wasn't easy to fit with the metal pipes. I'm sure the originals had semi flexible piping? What's your trick please?
There isn't really a trick Ben, you just need to be gentle........I sort of evolved the technique by practising removing and refitting the old slave a few times when I first did the job.

The original AP now Delphi slave cylinders were much more forgiving, and you are correct they have flexible pipework.

When I fit the next clutch to one of my own, I have a new old stock (2003) AP slave and a Borg & Beck cover and driven plate (Land Rover branded, not the badge engineered rubbish "Borg and Beck" now currently available).

I always wash out the inside of the bellhousing and inspect the guide tube, and a lightest smear of moly grease on the tube, and input shaft splines.

When I remove the slave from this car, I will be checking to see if the original pipes can be fitted to the new slave, simply as the original type pipework transmits far less noise into the cabin than the version with metal pipework

Have fun when you do the job.

Brian
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Old 8th July 2020, 01:41   #20
-Joe
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I have changed slave cylinder at least 3 times.


1. First time was to remove original and replace with LUK rover part @100k.
2. This lasted about 3 months.
3. Put in another slave this time cheaper Freelander LUK part
4. Then I fitted a Tazu master. The old LUK master was filled with strands of plastic/ carbon which was killing the slaves.
5. With new master and slave and new fluid I figured fixed forever. However.

6. About 2 months later the slaves release bearing jammed in the clutch plate and the slave broke apart. Real tricky driving home.
7. I stripped down the car and made a hybrid slave cylinder. Rover rubber pipes OEM cheapo slave unit and the LUK release bearing.
8. For a year or so I had to regularly blead the clutch and keep topping up the master. The spilt clutch fluid on the plate that I didn't replace coz I'm poor took maybe 6 months to burn off in regular use.
9. In recent times however the slave seems to have gummed up and fixed itself I can't remember the last time I had to bleed it.


I think that replacing the slave cylinder on a R75 is the worst job ever. The stupid gearbox is a tight fit and weighs loads more than a PG1 box. It usually takes me days to do the job and I usually get hands cut up bleed and swear a lot whilst doing it. It's a good reason to buy the auto some would gloat



On you tube you can watch an old video of some LUK bloke taking about the wonderous light weight master cylinder they make for the new Rover 75. That part he is boasting about has sent thousands of othwerwise working Rover 75s & MGs to the scrapyard.


My advice worn LUK masters kill any type of slave cylinders quickly. This is ineveitable due to the 'advanced' poor material used in their construction.


I like the mrtal Tazu master even though it is hard to fit it don't sqeak. Got to fit a new master if your slave has gone on a 75.


All of the slaves I've bought Rover,LUK,Cheapo all were rubbish design and inspire no confidence whatsoever. If a metal slave cylinder replacement were available I would fit that.



Even if you drive real careful just try bleeding the clutch after a run the fluid is hot. Those flimsy plastic slave cylinders bearly cope.
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