Seat retaining bolts seized - help

oldie · 14th March 2018, 22:54

Following on from my "Bifurcated carpets" post questions I attempted to remove the front seats this evening. This is a job I have done successfully in other cars so not an unknown task. However, it would appear that the sun-roof drains have been leaking for so long the seat bolts are rusted in place. Thus far, despite application of bolt-easing type chemicals over the past couple of days, only one of the eight budged. Bit of a problem.

Any advice on what to do?

Can they be drilled out? Use a bar extension? Will that strip the special socket? Is it possible to dry the carpet to an acceptable degree in situ?

Walter · 14th March 2018, 23:27

Have used small cold chisel and hammer if you can get acess, cut slot on outside bolt, then try to turn it anti-clockwise, worked on few seized seat bolts in past, good luck, keep soaking with Plus gas or similar, not WD 40.

madeupname · 15th March 2018, 04:19

This same problem had me tearing out my hair for weeks...... until I invested in a steel cutting disc (reasonably cheap from B&Q, Wicks etc.. But Don't go for the single Chinese made ones, they break up after 5 mins

)
I cut a groove into the bolt then used a cold chisel and lumpy to get it moving. After that I used a beefy screwdriver, the ones you need for door hinge screws, and it turned out quite easily

Image below of the freed bolt.

coab · 15th March 2018, 05:31

Its the access that makes it a pig of a job esp on the rear ones. I used a drill and the bolts got that hot the thread locker they use melted and the bolts started to move freely. The disc cutting is a good job again if you can get near the bolts.

Amsca2 · 15th March 2018, 06:23

You've definitely got the right size of torx? The one down can look the right size but round easily. The correct size may need hammering in if slightly rounded but should come out with a breaker bar. I've never had the right size slip. Or I may have been lucky.

T-Cut · 15th March 2018, 09:59

The seat runner bolts are actually Torx-Plus type (a Ribe 8 bit also fits well). A standard Torx 50 is poor fit.

TC

championdaddy · 15th March 2018, 15:01

I bit of heat from underneath has worked for me in the past

oldie · 15th March 2018, 16:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Cut

The seat runner bolts are actually Torx-Plus type (a Ribe 8 bit also fits well). A standard Torx 50 is poor fit.

TC

I have used a Torx 50 previously and that worked ok. However, it is a loose-ish fit and these bolts are very resistant. I'll have to find a Torx-Plus and see if that'll do the job. Will it be a Torx-Plus 50?

oldie · 15th March 2018, 16:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by championdaddy

I bit of heat from underneath has worked for me in the past

How and where do you apply the heat?

suzublu · 15th March 2018, 17:38

Torx 50, Ribe 8, Torx plus 50

14th March 2018, 22:54	#1
oldie Loves to post Connoisseur SE v8 auto '54 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: West Sussex Posts: 488 Thanks: 105 Thanked 56 Times in 41 Posts	Seat retaining bolts seized - help Following on from my "Bifurcated carpets" post questions I attempted to remove the front seats this evening. This is a job I have done successfully in other cars so not an unknown task. However, it would appear that the sun-roof drains have been leaking for so long the seat bolts are rusted in place. Thus far, despite application of bolt-easing type chemicals over the past couple of days, only one of the eight budged. Bit of a problem. Any advice on what to do? Can they be drilled out? Use a bar extension? Will that strip the special socket? Is it possible to dry the carpet to an acceptable degree in situ?

14th March 2018, 23:27	#2
Walter Posted a thing or two zebadee Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 1,481 Thanks: 135 Thanked 207 Times in 192 Posts	Cold Chisel. Have used small cold chisel and hammer if you can get acess, cut slot on outside bolt, then try to turn it anti-clockwise, worked on few seized seat bolts in past, good luck, keep soaking with Plus gas or similar, not WD 40.

15th March 2018, 06:23	#5
Amsca2 Gets stuck in MG ZT-T cdti Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Grangemouth Posts: 521 Thanks: 60 Thanked 93 Times in 80 Posts	You've definitely got the right size of torx? The one down can look the right size but round easily. The correct size may need hammering in if slightly rounded but should come out with a breaker bar. I've never had the right size slip. Or I may have been lucky. __________________ The Typhoon Bull

15th March 2018, 09:59	#6
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,753 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	The seat runner bolts are actually Torx-Plus type (a Ribe 8 bit also fits well). A standard Torx 50 is poor fit. TC Last edited by T-Cut; 15th March 2018 at 10:05..

15th March 2018, 05:31	#4
coab This is my second home 2007 57 GOLF GTi EDITION 30 DSG Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Newport Shropshire and Coventry. Posts: 5,138 Thanks: 2,424 Thanked 1,452 Times in 852 Posts	Its the access that makes it a pig of a job esp on the rear ones. I used a drill and the bolts got that hot the thread locker they use melted and the bolts started to move freely. The disc cutting is a good job again if you can get near the bolts.

15th March 2018, 15:01	#7
championdaddy This is my second home Mg Zt 190 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: The FIRST Garden City....Letchworth. Posts: 6,778 Thanks: 1,243 Thanked 920 Times in 698 Posts	I bit of heat from underneath has worked for me in the past

15th March 2018, 17:38	#10
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,923 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Torx 50, Ribe 8, Torx plus 50