My Car

djchubs · 18th July 2016, 21:44

Good evening all

I purchased 1 Rover 2.5 V6 Connoisser about 4 months ago.

It is a 2000 model year W reg, light green cream leather interior. Has done around 33000 miles but had no history.

Story is that the first and only owner purchased it from new and ran it until he passed away, so he had it around 15 years. The son then traded the car for a new one.

I picked this up for £500 and immediately spent £520 on getting the cam belts changed. What a bummer, the old ones looked very new, but not worth risking.

4 weeks ago decided to replace all 4 discs/pads as the discs had been an advisory on the last 3 MOT's and where rusty.

When I jacked the car up last week to start I found that the upper rear suspension arm was rotten. Looked great underneath but the top is lucky to be holding the spring in place.

So I am now looking at overhauling the whole rear suspension.

I have read the posts by Jim Jamieson and am now deciding whether to drop the whole rear sub frame or whether to just tackle it in-situ.

My problem is, if I take the whole rear subframe off I will have to do it on my drive as the car only just fits in my garage, if I do it in-situ I can get the car in the garage and do a whole lot more over the winter si I can get it back on the road next year.

I also need to repair about the last 6" of the rear cill on both sides so need to weld it without getting welding splatter on my neighbors car.

Interested in anybodies comments or advice.

Ravinder · 19th July 2016, 11:23

Sounds like a good one. Perhaps some of the experts can give you their advise.

djchubs · 30th July 2016, 20:23

Dont know about a good one. Its lived its life at the mouth of the river tyne and seems to have absorbed some salt out of the sea air.

At the point where I have spent a lot more than its worth and now debating how much its going to cost to keep it.

Might turn out to be a labour of love.

djchubs · 4th August 2016, 20:13

Just had a new (used) rear sub frame delivered.

Will unbox tomorrow and clean down over the weekend.

Will see the condition, might need blasting & Coting.

Tried twice this week to free the anti foll bar bolts. They are so rusted I am now probably going to have to heat them up, bray and old imperial socket onto them to remove them. Metyric 8mm is just rounding.

Although now that I have a new subframe I might just cut the NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-s off.

Tried to remove the spring with some compressors but failed miserably. 1 set too big, other set too small.

Think this car is going to be a bit of a challange.

Picked up a mig welder yesterday. Need to get some plate and start practicing. Last welede in 1980 using gas and arc, never used MIG yet.

Tian905 · 4th August 2016, 22:01

The bolts on the anti roll bar seem like they are made from chocolate.

Both times I've had to get them out I've had to use a hammered on imperial socket on at least one, worth give them a soaking with something prior.

There is one on the passenger side you cannot get to as the exhaust pipe is in the way, I undid the back box mounting strap and shoved it out of the way. The strap bolt is usually nasty as well

As regards the springs, just wait till you get the roll bar sorted, they just lift out once you can push down the arm, no need for compressors.

With the age of these cars now they can only be considered a labour of love ;-)

Good luck, at least if you are dropping the sub frame the arm replacement will be easier when the captive starts to spin!

MWMan · 5th August 2016, 05:38

I think many of us share your pain. However, if you get the work done, the car will be worth way more to you than the market value. I did the rear end on mine this year. Took me a while, but very pleased its now done. I didn't drop the subframe, so you should find things easier to access when its off.

For what its worth here is a pdf of the work I did - might be of some help.

18th July 2016, 21:44	#1
djchubs Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: North Shields Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	My Car Good evening all I purchased 1 Rover 2.5 V6 Connoisser about 4 months ago. It is a 2000 model year W reg, light green cream leather interior. Has done around 33000 miles but had no history. Story is that the first and only owner purchased it from new and ran it until he passed away, so he had it around 15 years. The son then traded the car for a new one. I picked this up for £500 and immediately spent £520 on getting the cam belts changed. What a bummer, the old ones looked very new, but not worth risking. 4 weeks ago decided to replace all 4 discs/pads as the discs had been an advisory on the last 3 MOT's and where rusty. When I jacked the car up last week to start I found that the upper rear suspension arm was rotten. Looked great underneath but the top is lucky to be holding the spring in place. So I am now looking at overhauling the whole rear suspension. I have read the posts by Jim Jamieson and am now deciding whether to drop the whole rear sub frame or whether to just tackle it in-situ. My problem is, if I take the whole rear subframe off I will have to do it on my drive as the car only just fits in my garage, if I do it in-situ I can get the car in the garage and do a whole lot more over the winter si I can get it back on the road next year. I also need to repair about the last 6" of the rear cill on both sides so need to weld it without getting welding splatter on my neighbors car. Interested in anybodies comments or advice.

19th July 2016, 11:23	#2
Ravinder This is my second home Rover 75 saloon x2, Rover 75 Tourer x2, Rover 220 Coupe Turbo Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Kirkcaldy, Fife Posts: 9,038 Thanks: 2,278 Thanked 2,852 Times in 1,718 Posts	Sounds like a good one. Perhaps some of the experts can give you their advise. __________________ Wanted - Indian bride. Cash waiting. (All sorted - bargain) First name and forum name: Ravinder Rover 75 2.0 CDT Connoisseur SE 116 (160 remap) Royal Blue (JFM) This vehicle was the 50,481st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 2,238th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,775 This vehicle was the 5,002nd 75 in Royal Blue (code: JFM) to be made out of 14,420 Royal Blue 75s

30th July 2016, 20:23	#3
djchubs Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: North Shields Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Continuing Saga Dont know about a good one. Its lived its life at the mouth of the river tyne and seems to have absorbed some salt out of the sea air. At the point where I have spent a lot more than its worth and now debating how much its going to cost to keep it. Might turn out to be a labour of love.

4th August 2016, 20:13	#4
djchubs Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: North Shields Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Continuing Saga Just had a new (used) rear sub frame delivered. Will unbox tomorrow and clean down over the weekend. Will see the condition, might need blasting & Coting. Tried twice this week to free the anti foll bar bolts. They are so rusted I am now probably going to have to heat them up, bray and old imperial socket onto them to remove them. Metyric 8mm is just rounding. Although now that I have a new subframe I might just cut the NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-s off. Tried to remove the spring with some compressors but failed miserably. 1 set too big, other set too small. Think this car is going to be a bit of a challange. Picked up a mig welder yesterday. Need to get some plate and start practicing. Last welede in 1980 using gas and arc, never used MIG yet.

4th August 2016, 22:01	#5
Tian905 Avid contributor MK2 MG ZTT+ CDTi & MK2 Rover 75 Classic CDT Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Manchester Posts: 175 Thanks: 6 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	The bolts on the anti roll bar seem like they are made from chocolate. Both times I've had to get them out I've had to use a hammered on imperial socket on at least one, worth give them a soaking with something prior. There is one on the passenger side you cannot get to as the exhaust pipe is in the way, I undid the back box mounting strap and shoved it out of the way. The strap bolt is usually nasty as well As regards the springs, just wait till you get the roll bar sorted, they just lift out once you can push down the arm, no need for compressors. With the age of these cars now they can only be considered a labour of love ;-) Good luck, at least if you are dropping the sub frame the arm replacement will be easier when the captive starts to spin! __________________ Last edited by Tian905; 4th August 2016 at 22:06.. Reason: Piccy