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10th May 2021, 18:51 | #51 | |
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As (CLF) Alan says sufficient tightness will easily be achieved with a good nip with a spanner particularly if coated with copper grease. 60 Nm is approximately 45 lb/ft and I can guarantee in everyday circumstances with a normal length 17 mm spanner and a straight pull everybody would easily exceed 60 nm Last edited by TourerSteve; 10th May 2021 at 19:03.. |
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10th May 2021, 19:11 | #52 | |
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Anyway Steve, why are you raising this when you've said that you would be satisfied with an approximate torque applied by ordinary spanner? Simon
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10th May 2021, 19:27 | #53 |
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Does anyone know what length the threaded section was on the original drop links , ie the ones the cars left the factory with?
Stan
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10th May 2021, 20:45 | #54 | |
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I only high lighted this as you have stated that you want to tighten the nut to 60 nm. By using any crows foot you are altering the horizontal length, from the centre of the nut you are tightening and without recalculating the torque value , “which you doubt will be necessary” , will not give you the correct torque which is no more accurate than spanner tightening And yes , I would be satisfied with an approximate torque from an ordinary spanner on a non structural part of the suspension, which with my experience and competence , will be tightened sufficiently and be safe for use . |
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10th May 2021, 21:18 | #55 |
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Dont forget Simon, tighten the top nut up before tightening the bottom nut. Tighten the bottom nut when the weight of the car is on the suspension.As Rover/MG indicated.
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10th May 2021, 21:38 | #56 | |
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No need for calculations if the crows foot is fitted at 90 deg to the torque wrench. If it has to be used straight, i.e. it extends the length of the torque wrench then a recalculation is needed, I can't remember the formula off the top of my head but I would expect there to be an online chart somewhere. Recalculate by all means if it is a safety component, but bearing in mind that a normal everyday short crows foot will add only about 3Lb/ft to a 20Lb/ft setting
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10th May 2021, 21:55 | #57 | |
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Just measured a couple of links and they vary between 23.77mm and 23.9mm, so call it 24mm
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11th May 2021, 00:09 | #58 |
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11th May 2021, 07:12 | #59 | |
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on a a nut that is not torque critical as long as it is sufficiently tight. |
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11th May 2021, 07:36 | #60 | ||||
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Quote:
When a torque figure is specified there's a reason for it and it's obviously good practice to observe that whenever possible. Whether it's 58 or 60 Nm, I know that I am as close as possible to the correct figure. With a spanner I wouldn't. Quote:
1st edit: Having now refitted the first of my refurbished struts to the car, I have found out why MG Rover says that the bottom nut should be tightened with the weight of the car on the suspension. The reason is that with the road spring relaxed the link's bottom balljoint pin is 3 cm lower than the hole in the anti-roll bar! 2nd edit: This was possibly because I had forgotten that the disconnected anti-roll bar at the other side of the car was temporarily supported on blocks. Quote:
3rd edit: Update: if you have enough socket extensions plus a universal joint and turn the steering to full lock, a torque wrench can be used on the anti-roll bar link bottom nut. After setting it to the specified 60 Nm with the car raised, once the weight of the car was on the suspension I checked to see if any further tightening was required as specified by MG Rover. It wasn't. There was absolutely no difference to the torque of that nut whether the suspension was compressed or not so make of that what you will! Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 6th June 2021 at 07:13.. Reason: Third revised reply to b152krz |
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