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13th April 2017, 13:51 | #41 |
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Unfortunately removing the full hub is beyond my capabilities or I'd have had them swapped over by now. On a budget so can't really afford to pay someone to remove them for me so need to persevere or do them in situ if it's possible.
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13th April 2017, 20:40 | #42 | |
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Probably would have been better if it had been fitted as a nut and bolt by Rover. |
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13th April 2017, 21:24 | #43 |
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I'm gonna talk nicely to my mate and get him to take the hub off for me and I know an engineer who'll drill the bolts out for me if I can't get them out by hearing them up and then I'll change it to a nut and bolt set up. It's probably the better option and as said it's how it should've been!
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14th April 2017, 15:51 | #44 | |
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When doing the top bearings, I failed miserably to undo it, so I used option B and took out strut complete with the hub, it is not that difficult to do it that way. Just a matter of disconnecting the caliper, cables at the inner wing and the driveshaft. I had tried lots of heat, a drill would not even mark the bolt head.
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14th April 2017, 19:47 | #45 |
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Know how you feel at the moment this is mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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14th April 2017, 19:49 | #46 | |
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And that's with oxy/acetylene and an impact gun. Still can't get it shift. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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My MGZTT This vehicle was the 2,432nd ZT-T to run off the production line, out of 8,249 This vehicle was the 847th ZT-T 190 + to be made out of 1,756 This vehicle was the 100th ZT-T in Starlight Silver (code: MBB) to be made out of 1,134 Starlight Silver ZT-Ts |
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14th April 2017, 20:06 | #47 |
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If you have access to an arc welder weld a nut around the old bolt head with the current up as high as you can.
The heat will expand the bolt and help loosen it when it cools down. Once the heat has dissipated into the hub spray freezing penetrating oil on the bolt and with a decent socket and breaker bar or your rattle gun it should move. . Last edited by Mike Noc; 23rd April 2017 at 12:23.. |
18th April 2017, 16:14 | #48 |
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Well I got the new strut fitted but can't get the pinch bolt off the bottom ball joint and it's now rounded! Gonna need to cut it off and replace it, not gonna change the passengers side strut over now just gonna run it as is until I get the lowering springs. At least the drivers side will strip down easier to change the strut over lol. I borrowed a mates bar which allowed me to get the force needed to get it moved, I borrowed his jack as well which has a handle that splits so used a bit of that to extend the breaker bar and it moved with the slightest bit of force! No heat needed just a good soak for a week with penetrating fluid lol.
Hopefully the passengers pinch bolt comes off easier! |
19th April 2017, 12:12 | #49 |
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The standard bolt has a 15mm head as far as I can remember. When I rebuilt my suspension I replaced the bolts with ones with 16mm heads, and used
( lightly ) copper grease on the threads to ensure that next time I dismantle the strut/suspension, it will be easy. As I recall the bolt is M12 x 60mm. These are easy to obtain in the right grade with 16mm heads. I hope this is be helpful...but I know it won't help much in getting the bolt/s out in the first place... Some heat and a good purchase are essential in my experience...
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19th April 2017, 18:30 | #50 |
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Didn't need heat in the finish up, just the breaker bar extended done the job we need it to. The bolt has been cleaned up and the threads inside cleaned and the bolt back in. Will check everything again a few days after the car has been properly used, it's still awaiting a new tyre but I took it a short test drive. An absolutely pig of a job with everything being seized but now I know how to do it I'll happily tackle it again soon so fit the lowering springs once they're ordered.
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