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Old 13th April 2017, 13:51   #41
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Perhaps taking complete hub off car and taking to someone with oxy/acetelene to give it good red hot roasting would be easier ?
Unfortunately removing the full hub is beyond my capabilities or I'd have had them swapped over by now. On a budget so can't really afford to pay someone to remove them for me so need to persevere or do them in situ if it's possible.
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Old 13th April 2017, 20:40   #42
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Gonna just heat them up and spray them with penetrating fluid, will do it a couple of times. Cars not making POL though so air grinder is coming out and then I'll move the car back into the driveway until it gets it's lowering springs. Hopefully have it back on the road by the end of May as I wanna take it away with me for my birthday!

What would happen if I drill through to remove the thread and convert them to a nut and bolt set up?
I've read some posts where people have done just that.

Probably would have been better if it had been fitted as a nut and bolt by Rover.
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Old 13th April 2017, 21:24   #43
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I'm gonna talk nicely to my mate and get him to take the hub off for me and I know an engineer who'll drill the bolts out for me if I can't get them out by hearing them up and then I'll change it to a nut and bolt set up. It's probably the better option and as said it's how it should've been!
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Old 14th April 2017, 15:51   #44
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I'm gonna talk nicely to my mate and get him to take the hub off for me and I know an engineer who'll drill the bolts out for me if I can't get them out by hearing them up and then I'll change it to a nut and bolt set up. It's probably the better option and as said it's how it should've been!
The far side of the clamp is threaded, so you would either need to drill out the thread, or use a smaller diameter bolt (the later is not a sensible option). The bolt is a tougher than normal one, but with a smaller than normal head as I recall.

When doing the top bearings, I failed miserably to undo it, so I used option B and took out strut complete with the hub, it is not that difficult to do it that way. Just a matter of disconnecting the caliper, cables at the inner wing and the driveshaft. I had tried lots of heat, a drill would not even mark the bolt head.
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Old 14th April 2017, 19:47   #45
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Old 14th April 2017, 19:49   #46
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And that's with oxy/acetylene and an impact gun. Still can't get it shift.


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Old 14th April 2017, 20:06   #47
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If you have access to an arc welder weld a nut around the old bolt head with the current up as high as you can.

The heat will expand the bolt and help loosen it when it cools down. Once the heat has dissipated into the hub spray freezing penetrating oil on the bolt and with a decent socket and breaker bar or your rattle gun it should move.













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Last edited by Mike Noc; 23rd April 2017 at 12:23..
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Old 18th April 2017, 16:14   #48
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Well I got the new strut fitted but can't get the pinch bolt off the bottom ball joint and it's now rounded! Gonna need to cut it off and replace it, not gonna change the passengers side strut over now just gonna run it as is until I get the lowering springs. At least the drivers side will strip down easier to change the strut over lol. I borrowed a mates bar which allowed me to get the force needed to get it moved, I borrowed his jack as well which has a handle that splits so used a bit of that to extend the breaker bar and it moved with the slightest bit of force! No heat needed just a good soak for a week with penetrating fluid lol.

Hopefully the passengers pinch bolt comes off easier!
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Old 19th April 2017, 12:12   #49
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The standard bolt has a 15mm head as far as I can remember. When I rebuilt my suspension I replaced the bolts with ones with 16mm heads, and used
( lightly ) copper grease on the threads to ensure that next time I dismantle the strut/suspension, it will be easy.

As I recall the bolt is M12 x 60mm. These are easy to obtain in the right grade with 16mm heads.

I hope this is be helpful...but I know it won't help much in getting the bolt/s out in the first place... Some heat and a good purchase are essential in my experience...
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Old 19th April 2017, 18:30   #50
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Didn't need heat in the finish up, just the breaker bar extended done the job we need it to. The bolt has been cleaned up and the threads inside cleaned and the bolt back in. Will check everything again a few days after the car has been properly used, it's still awaiting a new tyre but I took it a short test drive. An absolutely pig of a job with everything being seized but now I know how to do it I'll happily tackle it again soon so fit the lowering springs once they're ordered.
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