V6 Won't Start - Help

[lovema75]

Originally Posted by Jakg

Thought that only affected warm starts, not cold?

Car hasn't "run" for quite a while afaik.

Ooops sorry, shows what I know!

[MangoMan]

The reason I say about the petrol is because of the saddle-type tank. sometimes all the fuel, (if low) gets caught in the transfer side, not the side of the actual pump to engine and this transfer pump is known for faults and won't pump over to the pump to engine side of things, and it can be intermittant.

It's the Camshaft Sensor that gives hassles when warm. a duff Crank Sensor won't let it run or start, at all.

And a tip, if the engine doesn't fire after 3 or 4 revolutions, it's unlikely it will, don't just hold the starter switch until the engine slows, not good for the starter, or battery.

I still say try the fuel angle... Good luck.

[Jakg]

Originally Posted by Greeners

Ok.....before you go any further, check all the electrics work, central locking, interior and exterior lights etc.....

Yup, all seems to work... powerfolds, interior lights, rear blind, sunblind lights, radio (although needs code so couldn't use it), windows go up and down, central locking works I think (these are the only bits I've tested so far).

Plenums are dry but have obviously been wet in the past. When I bought the car the seller suggested the ECU was dead and I should buy a £25 one on eBay and then it'd work again but I don't believe that. Range etc on the IPK all work as well...#

EDIT - Fuel pump cover is off, rear seat base is already out so they've been investigating that, but haven't touched the filter side... so i'll do that now!

[chris75]

Originally Posted by Jakg

The car was registered 14/06/2000, from a quick search FFS seems to effect 2002+ cars?

Correct , or at least very late 2001 . My Sept 2001 doesn't have the problem type

[Gazmo65]

Immobiliser could be the problem, if you have tried to start the car with a half dead battery the immobiliser can go out of sync with the ECU and it all needs to be realigned with T4 or someone with a good diagnostic setup

[Jakg]

Filter removed...





Looks nothing like the ones I've seen in other threads?!

[Tatts]

Check this:-

DOOR LOCKING CUT-OFF SWITCH

An inertia switch, operational only with the alarm disarmed,
will unlock the doors in the event of an accident or sudden
impact.
When the switch operates, the interior lights illuminate until
the system is reset by pressing the rubber top (arrowed in
illustration). In addition, the hazard warning lights flash until
switched off.
The inertia switch is located behind the glovebox and can be
reached from underneath by releasing the four fixings
securing the access cover.
The inertia switch also cuts off the fuel supply

[Jakg]

Originally Posted by Tatts

Check this:-

DOOR LOCKING CUT-OFF SWITCH

An inertia switch, operational only with the alarm disarmed,
will unlock the doors in the event of an accident or sudden
impact.
When the switch operates, the interior lights illuminate until
the system is reset by pressing the rubber top (arrowed in
illustration). In addition, the hazard warning lights flash until
switched off.
The inertia switch is located behind the glovebox and can be
reached from underneath by releasing the four fixings
securing the access cover.
The inertia switch also cuts off the fuel supply

I was thinking about the inertia switch, but surely the hazards would be going 24/7? They aren't atm!

[rover54]

You say the garage think it is a fuel pump electrical supply problem. I would start by running a temp lead from battery to fuel pump to test if it works and if it then starts the car, you know where the problem lies. If it is not getting power them start by checking connections from ECU to fuel pump.

[Jakg]

Quick update - took the plugs out, they are bone dry, so no fuel is getting to them.