Anybody help me with my Clutch master Cylinder bleed - urgent?

[Wonderboot]

Hi all

Had a nightmare of a fortnight with this car...in an emergency a couple of Mondays ago had an LUK Clutch master fitted by a local garage - needed the car done there and then (my everyday commute, 40 miles). The mechanic who fitted it claimed that as it was a sealed system he couldn't bleed it ("I've been pumping it for about 20 minutes and it's getting better..." ). Gotta be honest, it was pretty rubbish trying to get it home - low, low biting point, couldn't get first too easily...but as I need the car every day thought the air might, might, just get better with use. It didn't get any worse, anyway...until tonight. Nightmare journey home on the ignition key, crunching away at third as a compromise...

I need this car for work for the next two days.

Then I am going on holiday in it - 250 miles - on Sunday.

Does anybody like bacon butties on a Sunday morning in Aintree? Would an Eezibleed kit do things better? (Anybody want to swap their fully working car for a Connie SE CDT with 104K on the clock in a hurry?)

Any suggestions gratefully received...

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Wonderboot

Hi all

Had a nightmare of a fortnight with this car...in an emergency a couple of Mondays ago had an LUK Clutch master fitted by a local garage - needed the car done there and then (my everyday commute, 40 miles). The mechanic who fitted it claimed that as it was a sealed system he couldn't bleed it ("I've been pumping it for about 20 minutes and it's getting better..." ). Gotta be honest, it was pretty rubbish trying to get it home - low, low biting point, couldn't get first too easily...but as I need the car every day thought the air might, might, just get better with use. It didn't get any worse, anyway...until tonight. Nightmare journey home on the ignition key, crunching away at third as a compromise...

I need this car for work for the next two days.

Then I am going on holiday in it - 250 miles - on Sunday.

Does anybody like bacon butties on a Sunday morning in Aintree? Would an Eezibleed kit do things better? (Anybody want to swap their fully working car for a Connie SE CDT with 104K on the clock in a hurry?)

Any suggestions gratefully received...

The bleed nipple is on the end of a pipe sticking out over the bell housing just under and to the left of the battery. It can be bled as normal, the pain is in reaching the reservoir to keep it topped up while you pump it. An eazibleed does significantly improve the ease, but they can be a pain to make a seal with the reservoir because you cant get to it very easily to tighten the cap on it. Dont forget to remove the rubber condom before you start.

[Wonderboot]

Thanks David. Trip to Halfrauds on Sunday morning it is then, for an Eezibleed, three gallons of DOT 4, and a quick nip in to Boots for some Kalms. So looking forward to the next few commutes in this lovely old crate...btw I remembered an old trick I used to use on Minis/1100s/other hopeless old crates when I needed to firm up the brake pedal - jam the pedal down with plank/pole/Krooklok overnight and let the air rise to the surface. Same idea with the clutch?

[Heddy]

Don't be shy of using fluid, better to use a whole tin to ensure you've bled all the system. As mentioned, it's a pain to keep topping up the master but worth it. Finally, make sure you lock off the bleed nipple properly when done, 2 spanners, one to hold the body, one to tighten the nipple. If you put a hole in the cap of the brake fluid you can put a length of tubing on it to reach the master.

[Wonderboot]

Thanks Heddy. I'll bleed the whole system through with an Eezibleed and keep it well-topped up. Good tip for the two spanners on the bleed nipple - saw that elsewhere and thought "that's the sort of thing I'd have rushed and got wrong".

Isn't this club great? Helpful squared.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Wonderboot

Thanks Heddy. I'll bleed the whole system through with an Eezibleed and keep it well-topped up. Good tip for the two spanners on the bleed nipple - saw that elsewhere and thought "that's the sort of thing I'd have rushed and got wrong".

Isn't this club great? Helpful squared.

Dont forget to get the bleed cap good and tight to avoid a huge slurge of fluid over your carpet. Some use a large flat screwdriver and tap the cap round with that. You should be ok if you are buying a brand new kit, but it can be a nightmare with worn seals in the easibleed. Drop the tyre pressure well down until you are sure you have a good seal.

[Wonderboot]

Will do - cheers.

[SirRustalot]

Yeah, as mentioned, remember to remove the rubber condom inside the master before you start filling it!! You'd be surprised at how many times that crops up, even when garages are involved. Use a vet syringe with a two inch bit of clear plastic pipe on the end and a small reservoir of fluid on a plate or some newspapers sitting nearby.

This is how I came across my ZT-T. Quite tidy to start with (immaculate now) but sold with 'clutch gone'. It was fitted with a new clutch, slave and master - not all together but moreso as a method of elimination - by the previous owners but the garage/fitters gave up trying to pump the pedal and just ended up soaking the carpet with fluid. They simply didn't know what they were doing and forgot to remove the internal rubber sleeve/condom and were getting nowhere. Hopefully, they weren't the same lot who did the belts and water pump since they were done too prior to selling it to me!

[andy willi]

easybleed is the way to go but i know your slave is leaking could last a few days or weeks but it will need doing soon


andy

[planenut]

For top up look here,ie. Poundland - and guess how much.
http://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/sh...ight=poundland