Which Hydraulic Press should I buy?

[FlashHarry]

Going to treat myself to a hydraulic press, which no doubt my pals in my village will be very pleased about. I am considering Machine Mart https://www.machinemart.co.uk/c/hydraulic-presses/
or SGS https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gara...ydraulic-press

Looking for 10 or 12 tonne. Is a pressure gauge useful/necessary? Any recommendations? As well as my trusty 75 Tourer I have a Discovery TD5 and a Discovery 200Tdi which need bushes replacing.


I would be very grateful for any comments etc. Thanks. Paul

[Gazmo65]

I have heard good about the sgs and it's keenly priced

[trikey]

I used a 50t press at a garage to remove a front wheel bearing from a 75, believe it or not the press struggled to get the bearing out!

Go for the biggest you can budget for.

[EastPete]

I have the 10 ton Clarke one from Machine Mart - it is OK, although it came with insufficient oil in it, and I am not sure how long the hydraulics will hold up - I am never that sure of the quality of Machine Mart stuff. Having said this, I have used it to do a couple of Rover 75 front wheel bearings and to change the front subframe bushes. It is just about man enough for these jobs, but I think the 4 tonne one would struggle.

Pete

[Sheraton]

I'm considering purchasing one of these to aid in the removal of the Gudgeon Pins from my Connecting Rods

(I considered making up a frame to use my Trolley Jack as a makeshift press Could work..)

I've seen the budget type that use a Bottle Jack for Hydraulic force - 12 Ton (12000 kg) on ebay for around £100 got to be worth a Punt



Paul.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Sheraton

I'm considering purchasing one of these to aid in the removal of the Gudgeon Pins from my Connecting Rods

(I considered making up a frame to use my Trolley Jack as a makeshift press Could work..)

I've seen the budget type that use a Bottle Jack for Hydraulic force - 12 Ton (12000 kg) on ebay for around £100 got to be worth a Punt



Paul.

Nope you can't press out the gudgeon pins with a press Paul

To remove the gudgeon pins you need to heat the little ends up carefully, and to reinstall the pins, you need to cool the pins in the freezer, and my favourite it to heat the conrods in a deep fat fryer......and you only get one chance

Did that piston and rod I sent actually arrive or not? personally speaking if you've never changed pistons using original rods, then it's a job best left to an engine remanufacturer, it's fairly difficult to get it right

Brian

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Nope you can't press out the gudgeon pins with a press Paul

To remove the gudgeon pins you need to heat the little ends up carefully, and to reinstall the pins, you need to cool the pins in the freezer, and my favourite it to heat the conrods in a deep fat fryer......and you only get one chance

Did that piston and rod I sent actually arrive or not? personally speaking if you've never changed pistons using original rods, then it's a job best left to an engine remanufacturer, it's fairly difficult to get it right

Brian

Oh tell me about it. Just fitting some pistons and conrods at the weekend on a turbo project and I failed on one of them by about 1/4”. It’s kind of nervy fitting them tbh. You have to be 100% positive when fitting the gudgeon pin, one tiny half hearted attempt and your doomed. I have fitted successfully quite a few over the years, btw. If fitting them I find a 10mm masonry expanding rawbolt and a tapping collet to hold that works well and gives you something more positive to hold onto for the process. You are best hacksawing or breaking off the piston with a hydraulic press I find as its such an awkward shape. Then heat up the top lightly to push the gudgeon pin out. New set of AE pistons on the way now, so in theory if I don’t screw this last one up i’ll have some spare

[Sheraton]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Nope you can't press out the gudgeon pins with a press Paul

To remove the gudgeon pins you need to heat the little ends up carefully, and to reinstall the pins, you need to cool the pins in the freezer, and my favourite it to heat the conrods in a deep fat fryer......and you only get one chance

Did that piston and rod I sent actually arrive or not? personally speaking if you've never changed pistons using original rods, then it's a job best left to an engine remanufacturer, it's fairly difficult to get it right

Brian

How'do Brian - I didn't know you had sent the Piston/Rod, I've certainly not had anything delivered a delivery wouldn't have been missed as there is always someone here ? - as i wasn't aware items had been sent i haven't been expecting a delivery.... (I'll P.M you )


r.e use of a press - I do plan on heating the Conrod before attempting to remove the old Pins with the Press - can't see why that wouldn't work

Win or Lose i'm happy to have a go myself - I have done a fair bit of research
r.e the process of installing New Pistons to existing Rods and fitting New Liners if nothing else I'll have Gained more experience


I have a complete set of Yenmak Pistons/Rings/Rods/Liners just arrived this seemed the best compromise



Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained



Paul.

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by FlashHarry

Going to treat myself to a hydraulic press, which no doubt my pals in my village will be very pleased about. I am considering Machine Mart https://www.machinemart.co.uk/c/hydraulic-presses/
or SGS https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gara...ydraulic-press

Looking for 10 or 12 tonne. Is a pressure gauge useful/necessary? Any recommendations? As well as my trusty 75 Tourer I have a Discovery TD5 and a Discovery 200Tdi which need bushes replacing.


I would be very grateful for any comments etc. Thanks. Paul

I received a Clarke CSA10EP 10 Tonne as a present. I have not used it on heavy duty stuff but it has proved it’s worth on a number of occasions. I would recommend a gauge as it’s difficult to judge what force is being applied. One further point is ditch the plastic bolts that come with it for at least 8.8 rating.