I'm not a cowboy but.....

T16 · 22nd November 2011, 14:49

Is it at all possible to just replace the rear springs on a ZT using spring compressors, which would be even quicker than the usual method of disconnecting the roll bar and shock?

Rov5 · 22nd November 2011, 18:25

I certainly would not try doing it with just a spring compressor,potentially dangerous,at the end of thr day it is your decision whether or not to chance doing it that way.

andy willi · 22nd November 2011, 18:35

quick answer is nooooooooooooooo

trikey · 22nd November 2011, 18:59

I fitted my rear spax ones without a compressor...

I know they are a tad shorter, would the few mm less make all that difference?

chrissyboy · 22nd November 2011, 18:59

that is no short cuts on jobs like that .safetly first and all that .besides hands look so much better with 4 fingers and a thumb on each

Mike Noc · 22nd November 2011, 19:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by T16

Is it at all possible to just replace the rear springs on a ZT using spring compressors, which would be even quicker than the usual method of disconnecting the roll bar and shock?

You'd probabaly spend longer winding the spring compressors in and back out than doing the job the right way, and there isn't much room around the springs at the back.

Mike

Gazmo65 · 22nd November 2011, 21:07

Its not really that big a job it takes probably 1 1/2 hours to do both sides start to finish using the guide on the how to section plenty of WD40 on the rubber spring seat to allow you to locate it and twist it, it is quite an easy job just make sure you use axle stands under the jacking point and chock the front wheels before you start to jack the vehicle up.

connyv6 · 22nd November 2011, 21:22

i done mine by unbolting bottom bolt of damper from hub and two bolts each side holding subframe assembly to body, very easy.
i have done a few know basically because my whole family owns rovers and mgs and 90% are 75 and zts and nearly all of us have had the rear springs snap, some quite bad and by doing the method above both sides can be done in less than half of an hour, not to tell you how to suck eggs but make sure you have right springs for your model and new rubbers for top n tail of spring REALLY help, tbh i cant see how you would fit compressor onto spring anyway in the back..hth just ask if you need anymore help.

T16 · 23rd November 2011, 09:35

Ok.

Thanks!

had a look last night, and although both springs are starting to lose their plastic coating at the bottom, they are not broken.

There was one issue though, the LH side I was able to make the spring exhibit a creaking noise, just by compressing it a tiny amount with my hands. I couldnt tell whether it was coming from the top isolator or the bottom, but I could feel it through the spring.

Like I said its not broken, but I DO get a creaking when I drive onto my drive, so I would think it has to be this side.

Im thinking that perhaps it needs to be relocked into the cams somehow.

Does this sound like it would be the cause of the creaking if the spring wasnt correctly twisted into the "cams" ?

Also, just to get this straight, can I just get away with disconnecting the shock if I want to release the tension on the spring just to give it a twist to reseat it? I know its still connected to the anti roll bar, but would a firm press down be enough to enable it to twist?

The rubber isolator at the bottom is not lined up with the drain holes in the arm, so it would be good to correct that to try and stave off premature spring failure...

Any more advice is very welcome!

Could someone have re-installed new springs incorrectly leading to a creaking sound? Im still not 100% on quite how they lock into place, the lower isolator looks like it just fits in rather than locking....

22nd November 2011, 14:49	#1
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	I'm not a cowboy but..... Is it at all possible to just replace the rear springs on a ZT using spring compressors, which would be even quicker than the usual method of disconnecting the roll bar and shock?

22nd November 2011, 18:25	#2
Rov5 Loves to post Rover 75 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Glasgow Posts: 290 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Rear Spring I certainly would not try doing it with just a spring compressor,potentially dangerous,at the end of thr day it is your decision whether or not to chance doing it that way.

22nd November 2011, 18:59	#4
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,768 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	I fitted my rear spax ones without a compressor... I know they are a tad shorter, would the few mm less make all that difference? __________________ Lest we forget..

22nd November 2011, 18:59	#5
chrissyboy This is my second home lovely little ford focus. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: East Dulwich Posts: 7,877 Thanks: 2 Thanked 82 Times in 68 Posts	that is no short cuts on jobs like that .safetly first and all that .besides hands look so much better with 4 fingers and a thumb on each __________________ [ I'm really confused. -I keep dreaming I'm an insomniac

22nd November 2011, 18:35	#3
andy willi I really should get out more....... PRE LAUNCH 75/ZT 190/XJ 550 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: carcroft doncaster Posts: 2,866 Thanks: 101 Thanked 680 Times in 342 Posts	quick answer is nooooooooooooooo

22nd November 2011, 21:07	#7
Gazmo65 Loves to post Volvo S80 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Burton Latimer Posts: 268 Thanks: 11 Thanked 39 Times in 20 Posts	Its not really that big a job it takes probably 1 1/2 hours to do both sides start to finish using the guide on the how to section plenty of WD40 on the rubber spring seat to allow you to locate it and twist it, it is quite an easy job just make sure you use axle stands under the jacking point and chock the front wheels before you start to jack the vehicle up.

22nd November 2011, 21:22	#8
connyv6 Loves to post 75 conny Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: black country Posts: 264 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	i done mine by unbolting bottom bolt of damper from hub and two bolts each side holding subframe assembly to body, very easy. i have done a few know basically because my whole family owns rovers and mgs and 90% are 75 and zts and nearly all of us have had the rear springs snap, some quite bad and by doing the method above both sides can be done in less than half of an hour, not to tell you how to suck eggs but make sure you have right springs for your model and new rubbers for top n tail of spring REALLY help, tbh i cant see how you would fit compressor onto spring anyway in the back..hth just ask if you need anymore help.

23rd November 2011, 09:35	#9
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Ok. Thanks! had a look last night, and although both springs are starting to lose their plastic coating at the bottom, they are not broken. There was one issue though, the LH side I was able to make the spring exhibit a creaking noise, just by compressing it a tiny amount with my hands. I couldnt tell whether it was coming from the top isolator or the bottom, but I could feel it through the spring. Like I said its not broken, but I DO get a creaking when I drive onto my drive, so I would think it has to be this side. Im thinking that perhaps it needs to be relocked into the cams somehow. Does this sound like it would be the cause of the creaking if the spring wasnt correctly twisted into the "cams" ? Also, just to get this straight, can I just get away with disconnecting the shock if I want to release the tension on the spring just to give it a twist to reseat it? I know its still connected to the anti roll bar, but would a firm press down be enough to enable it to twist? The rubber isolator at the bottom is not lined up with the drain holes in the arm, so it would be good to correct that to try and stave off premature spring failure... Any more advice is very welcome! Could someone have re-installed new springs incorrectly leading to a creaking sound? Im still not 100% on quite how they lock into place, the lower isolator looks like it just fits in rather than locking....