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Old 4th January 2011, 00:18   #1
Robson Rover Repair
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Lightbulb Ultimate Buyers Guide for Rover 75 and MG ZT

Fellow club members and new visitors, im working on this and will be developing this continuously. Any information that is wrong, tell me in the 'comments' thread below.

Ultimate Buyers Guide - The comments thread

PURCHASING ADVICE FOR THE ROVER 75 AND MG ZT

To begin with below I’ve listed relevant sections that this forum thread will explore, will give you not only generic information about each model, but as much detail unique to each model as I could gather.

CHAPTER 01 - Ultimate Buyers Guide Introduction

CHAPTER 02 - Basic Rover 75 and MG ZT Information

CHAPTER 03 - The head gasket and reliability / Spare part myths exposed

CHAPTER 04 - Consumer rights when purchasing a car

CHAPTER 05 - How to decode a cars VIN number

CHAPTER 06 - Common faults to all Rover 75 / MG ZT's

CHAPTER 07 - Body Variants

CHAPTER 08 - Engine Variants (Including faults and costs specific to each engine) / Understanding the engine stamp code

CHAPTER 09 - Overview and common faults for the 1.8 engines
CHAPTER 09-A - K Series 1.8 120 (4 cylinder 16 valve, none turbo with 120ps/116 bhp)
CHAPTER 09-B - K Series 1.8T 160 (4 cylinder 16 valve, Turbo with 160 ps/157 bhp)

CHAPTER 10 - Overview and common faults for the V6 petrol engines
CHAPTER 10-A - KV6 2.0 150 (6 cylinder 24 valve, none turbo with 150ps /147 bhp)
CHAPTER 10-B - KV6 2.5 160 (6 cylinder 24 valve, none turbo with 160ps /157 bhp)
CHAPTER 10-C - KV6 2.5 180 (6 cylinder 24 valve, none turbo with 180ps /177 bhp)
CHAPTER 10-D - KV6 2.5 190 (6 cylinder 24 valve, none turbo with 190ps /188 bhp)
CHAPTER 10-E - KV6 2.5 220s (6 cylinder 24 valve, supercharged with 224ps /220 bhp)

CHAPTER 11 - Ford Modular Engine 4.6 260 (8 cylinder 16 valve, none turbo with 260ps /255bhp)

CHAPTER 12 - Overview and common faults for the diesel engines
CHAPTER 12-A - M47R 115 bhp - Often badged CDT (4 cylinder 16 valve turbo charged engine with 115 ps / 111bhp)
CHAPTER 12-B -M47R 131 bhp - Often badged CDTi but this can vary!! (4 cylinder 16 valve turbo charged engine with 131 ps / 128bhp)

CHAPTER 13 - Limo / Long Wheelbased Car engine info

CHAPTER 14 - Transmissions (Including faults and costs specific to automatic and manual)

CHAPTER 15 - Project Drive - Important information for cars built from 2001 and onwards

CHAPTER 16 - Interior Specifications

CHAPTER 17 - Insurance / Groups

CHAPTER 18 - Useful companys and websites

CHAPTER 19 - History of the 75 and ZT owners club

CHAPTER 20 - Authors comments

Ultimate Buyers Guide Introduction


Let me welcome you to THE 75 AND ZT CLUB. As you have no doubt posted somewhere on the forum enquiring about either the Rover 75 or MG ZT (shall be referred to 75 and ZT from now on, and 75-T and ZT-T in tourer form) as a potential car to purchase and have been redirected to this guide.

Well firstly let me make it clear that you have already made the first step to owning a true classic piece of motoring heritage. Everyone here is a enthusiast, even those who originally joined up just for assistance, often like yourselves. These cars have a wonderful soul and many of us compare it to the British equivalent of the “Alfa Romeo” effect when you drive them

The single thing you must realise before purchasing either a 75 or ZT that this guide may look like a horror story of faults and problems, HOWEVER these problems are no worse than you would get with any other manufacturer, including the German and Japanese brands and showing these issues up front will prevent you being exposed to nasty surprises and allowing you to negotiate for repairs in the purchase price. I produced this guide to allow people to avoid wasting money on cars that might seem like a bargain and are actually a money pit.

I myself purchased my current 2001 MG ZT V6 in 2009 for £500 following this guide. The car had 109,000 miles on it. It it was my second MG ZT V6, the first one was a 2002 and I payed over £2000 for it 18 months before hand for a car of lower specification and it had 92,000 miles on it! This guide will help you hopefully make the bargain buys like I myself and many others on the forum have made.

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Old 4th January 2011, 00:19   #2
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Default CHAPTER 02 - Basic Rover 75 and MG ZT Information

BASIC ROVER 75 AND MG ZT INFORMATION


The Rover 75 is an executive car produced initially by the Rover Group at Cowley, Oxfordshire, UK, and later by MG Rover at their Longbridge site in Birmingham, UK. The Rover 75 was available with front-wheel drive in either a saloon or estate body and latterly, in long wheelbase form (the limo had 100mm rear leg room stretch for the rear passengers) and a rear-wheel-drive, V8-engined specification.


The car was unveiled to the public at the 1998 Birmingham Motor Show, with deliveries commencing in February 1999. In 2001.


Three years after the launch of the Rover 75 and less than a year after the de-merger of MG Rover from BMW, the MG ZT and MG ZT-T were launched along with the Rover 75 tourer.


The body shell and chassis of the car was almost identical to the Rover 75, but with more aggressive grille, sportier styling, stiffer suspension and re-tuned engines.




In late 2004 both the Rover 75 and the MG ZT where given an exterior face-lift consisting of cosmetic changes to head lights, bumpers and other very tiny changes.




Production of the Rover and later MG badge models ceased on 8 April 2005 when manufacturer MG Rover Group entered administration.

You can still find both 75's and ZT's that have yet to be registered with delivery miles that where registered in late 2008, that where sold when MG Rover went into liquidation and cars that where made in 2005, where often sold and registered after that date along with cars that where shipping off from England, where brought back and sold again into England!


So purchasing a 2008 registered Rover 75 with delivery miles is still a realistic chance if you are willing to pay for it!

A key feature of the 75/ZT range was actually its safety in crash tests, making 4 stars in NCAP tests and 5 stars when the cars where fitted with the optional head "pillow" side air bags. These are the same standard of tests that are used today.


Ive provided a link to a video of the cars being tested.


Note, that some cars on ''S'' regs exist, and S reg cars are usually preproduction models that where sold on in 1999 alongside ''T'' reg cars and are quite desirable within the club itself but maybe not to the casual individual.




The Rover 75 and MG ZT where survived by SIAC and Nanjing Automotive (Now one company and selling under the MG name in the UK) who purchased between them the rights to all the MG and Rover cars. The MG 7 was essentially a mix of both 75 and ZT parts and was sold in china, asia and parts of australia.


The Roewe 750 was based on the Rover 75 limos (with a 100 mm stretch in the rear cabin for more leg room, modern rear end similar to the 5 series of the time, V8 front end as seen on the UK Rover 75 V8 models and a revised interior) and was also sold in China and Asia.


Neither of these cars where available in the UK from 2008 when launched, and produced officially ending in 2016 using the Rover 75 design foundation.

The Rover 75 went on to form the foundation of the Roewe 550 / mk1 & mk2 MG6 with many components and designs shared or improved (such as front subframe with a twin pair of lower engine mounts)

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Old 4th January 2011, 00:20   #3
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Default CHAPTER 03 - The reliability myths

THE HEAD GASKET / RELIABILITY / YOU CANT GET PARTS MYTH.......


People have a terrible opinion of the Rover K series engine and its deeply unfair. They have a reputation for head gasket failures and was exposure on BBC's Watchdog during the 1990's. As a result, all Rovers suffer HGF according to the uninformed!

The fact that HGF occurs on many cars is often the result of a problem elsewhere that has not been addressed. The fact that Lotus used them in their Lotus Elise sports car should be proof enough that they can be reliable when driven hard IF maintained appropriately. If anything a 1.8 or 1.8T is usually a bargain because people are afraid of buying a K series engine 75/ZT.

These are alloy engines and the appropriate maintenance and checks of the cooling system are essential as on any other make. People are dangerously ignorant to the fact that you can not run a car for 12,000 miles a year without checking the oil, coolant and other such parts and only do it once a year for the MOT. These are the people who often had the failures in their cars!

Head gasket failure on the 1.8 and 1.8T engines typically occurs around 30,000 miles, and thus the majority of high mile 1.8/1.8T engines will almost certainly have had ''a head gasket repair'' done at some stage. If done correctly, then we have multiple members whose cars have done into the 100,000 of thousands of miles!!!

When purchasing a 1.8/1.8T ask if the head gasket was done. If it was done, ask for the receipts as often people cheat and simply pour a tank of "Radwell or K seal" into the engine coolant tank which will temporarily cure the car, often enough for you to have driven the car away and it fail a week or two later. Its a dirty trick in the second hand market, HOWEVER some people have reported it has worked to their advantage curing tiny leaks.

I will cover in detail the list of parts and procedures and what to watch for specifically in the 1.8 and 1.8T engine sections along with photos and explanations of what is what.

It should be noted that the 75/ZT V6 engines KV6 almost never have a head gasket failure, and it is extremely unlikely to occur unless servicing has been terrible. Be wary of mechanics claiming the V6 needs head gasket work as 90% of the time, they wont know what they are talking about. The KV6 can have a failure however it boils down to poor maintance not a mechanicial fault, but like anything mechanicial it can still fail.

The diesels and V8 NEVER suffer a common head gasket failure as they are BMW sourced and the V8 is Ford sourced.

Take the car to a recommended Rover/MG expert every time as mechanics love to con people with Rovers and often do more and I mean MUCH more damage than good. Ask on the forum for someone in your area and recommendations!!!

On the subject of parts. With such companies as Rimmer Bros (www.rimmerbros.co.uk), X-part (www.xpart.com a division of Caterpillar Inc also, X-part are the Mg Rover approved servicing centres around the uk) and the various aftermarket manufactures, there are very few and I mean very few parts that you can not get for the cars. These are often found on the owners forum of www.the75andztclub.co.uk along with advice on substitute parts that work just as well. Again, a great reason to become a member of a owners club.

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Old 4th January 2011, 00:23   #4
Robson Rover Repair
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Default CHAPTER 04 - Consumer rights

YOUR CONSUMER RIGHTS


A member of the club "Jules" made this post recently and I felt it may be potentially useful when buying a second hand car from a dealership should things start to go wrong after or before you have bought your car!

Quote:

When buying from a dealer, under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 (as amended) a car must be:

Of satisfactory quality. It must meet the standard a reasonable person would regard as satisfactory, bearing in mind the way it was described, how much it cost, the make, the age, the history, the mileage, the intended usage of the car and any other relevant circumstances.


Amongst other things, this covers the fitness, appearance and finish of the car, its safety and its durability.

The car must be free from defects, except when they were pointed out to you by the seller before you agreed to buy it or where you have inspected the car and that inspection ought to have uncovered the car defects.

Even where a car appears to have a minor defect, it may still be of unsatisfactory quality if that defect could lead to extensive damage or render the car dangerous to drive.

Also:
Quote:
[LEFT]
- It is not sufficient that a car is merely roadworthy and safe.
- The dealer may be liable for faults that were present at the time of sale, even though they may only become apparent later on.
- Dealers are not liable for fair wear and tear, where the car broke down through normal use. Nor are they liable for your misuse or accidental damage

As described. This covers all statements made about the car, whether in writing, in a conversation over the phone or in the showroom, in a newspaper, website, email or text, or in documentation. If the advert states "air conditioning and CD player" then the car should come with these features and they should be working.

Reasonably fit for any normal purpose. It should get you from A to B with the appropriate degree of comfort, ease of handling and reliability that a reasonable person would expect.

Reasonably fit for any other purpose you make known to the dealer. For example, if you require a vehicle for towing a caravan.

Excellent advice, and one that will serve many members well into the future!

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Old 4th January 2011, 00:25   #5
Robson Rover Repair
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Default CHAPTER 05 - How to decode a cars VIN number

How to decode the cars vin number


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Old 4th January 2011, 00:30   #6
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Default CHAPTER 06 - Common faults to all Rover 75 / MG ZT's

Common faults to all Rover 75 / MG ZT'S

This is a list of common faults all the cars can suffer from, none specific to engine, transmission or bodyshell type and is very much worth noting. The majority of these problems are very simple fixes and can be excellent bargaining tools when purchasing a car.

From now on, all Rover 75/Rover 75 Tourers/MG ZT/MG ZTT's shall be referred to as "the cars" however unique tourer and saloon problems are listed at the end.

You will note mention of the "T4" diagnostics machine a lot. This was a computer system designed for the MG Rover cars, to give readouts via an ODB plug in the cars (Just above the accelerator pedal!).

A T4 can preform many specific tasks on our cars, and often only a T4 can read them correctly, despite what many other aftermarket systems offer.

A T4 session can be booked through your local X Part dealership, the website and contact details can be be found in the useful links section.

Additionally this map shows the dealers in the regions around the mainland UK.

Mainland UK MG Rover dealers and service centres

This thread shows them in Northern ireland...

Trusted MG Rover servicing, dealerships and Xpart in Northern ireland

Major Recalls......

Servicing and service history can be an issue with cars, especially with so few MG Rover focused dealerships now days, often they will have been maintained by mechanics not knowledgeable in the solutions.

This forum is proof of it and many cars have been saved through the DIY and how to guides.

Important recalls effecting the cars over the years, worth checking on service history....

March 2000 - Engine may cut out while the vehicle is being driven (cars built 01/02/1998-08/10/1999)

July 2002 - Front suspension spring problems (cars built 01/12/1998-27/10/1999)

May 2004 - Possible damage and deflation of tyre due to road spring (cars built 27/10/1999-20/02/2002)

Keys

The first thing you want when purchasing your car is the keys to drive it, well check there are two keys with it!

Purchasing new keys that actually work properly is an expensive (£180 - £220) and takes a while because they have to be supplied by BMW in Germany.

That means you have to seek out an authorized UK agent to start the process which is an Xpart dealer and also has a T4 to code the keys correctly to the car.

A considerable expense on a second hand car! A member on here "Lates" can help out as he can order keys at a discounted rate.
Replacement keys from Lates

You may also notice the key fobs are worn or split around the rubber area you press your finger on to activate the fob itself. You can source these on ebay for around £5 all in, and below is a handy guide for not only changing your fob battery,but also dismantling it in general.

Key Fob dismantling

Air bag light always on

A common problem on the cars and 90% of the time its just the connectors under the seat. There is a yellow connector and a blue connector, often when the seat is moved or jerked they will pull out slightly.

Just reinsert them / squeeze them in tighter and it will sort the airbag light. Make sure to do both sides just incase. Turn the car on and let the engine run for a second and then turn off, the light will then go off and be recorded by the cars ecu as fixed so you have full airbag safety again.

The other 10% of the time theres an Airbag control module or side impact sensor which can fail, and whilst not expensive it then a T4 session will give you the exact error code to confirm which is at fault.

This thread gives you loads of details on the under of the seats, how to remove them and airbag wiring and modules.
Seat wiring and airbag pictures

Bonnet cable

This is very common on second hand cars, as the cable to the bonnet as a "dividing block" on it which stretches and sometimes pulls through. Should your cable snap you are going to have fun getting under your bonnet.

There are many ways you could do it, but if you PM a member of the moderation team and explain the problem they will give you the list how. Its actually shockingly obvious and most mechanics would do the same.

This bonnet cable and catch issue can be prevented by following the very basic advise in this thread!
Bonnet cable - servicing and prevention of breaks

Handbrake not holding car

The usual common problem with our cars and one the forum has only managed to solve recently. Due to the design on the cars, you could actually replace everything and still have a poor handbrake because of a single simple metal clip which stetches and deforms over time.


You will notice a little X to the right of the image pointing to a clip behind the tensioner. This is the section which warps and deforms over time. The thread below shows the part in detail.

The dodgy handbrake - cure?

Much debate as to the best solution to prevent this is ongoing, but most people are replacing the unit and having a perfect handbrake after. This again is around £10.

Below is the exact guide on how to set and adjust your handbrake correctly!

Handbrake tensioner adjustment as per factory specs

Pleniums / Water logging / Flooded ECU

The plenum is a chamber that collects fresh air to feed the interior vents/aircon system. It's located between the firewall at the rear of the engine and the wall which forms the front of the cab section. Air is supplied via the scuttle vents, which run across the body below the windscreen.

It's important that the plenum remains dry because it houses the ECU. This is mounted a few inches above the floor on the firewall face. Also vulnerable to flood water is the pollen filter, which is mounted over a large hatch on the nearside of the rear wall. If the lower edge of the filter gets wet, it soon starts to smell and this gets into the cab with the incoming air.

On Mark 1 models, there are two further rubber tubes which drain the upper plenum area. These are located on the upper front wings, near the bonnet hinges.

On Mark 2 models (and some late Mark 1s), the driver's side drain is plugged off. This is because the drain is actually too high for water to enter and is therefore redundant. The upper drain tubes are similar to the others and have a flattened nozzle, which directs water onto the back of the wheel arch liner. From here, it runs onto the ground.

Keeping an eye on this is very worthwhile, I myself was very lucky with my first ZT when the plenium under the ECU was filled with soil and had began to flood!

This guide below gives some handy hints on the best way of servicing and preventing any further issues.

Plenum help and advise guide

The sunroof drains can occasionally do the same thing, and a guide here shows what to look for.

Leaky sunroof drains

Failed reversing lights

Reversing light failure is nearly always due to a £5 switch which can be done in no time at all DIY. This guide explains everything in several simple photos and is not worth repeating in words.

DIY fixing of reversing lights

Boot "machine gunning noise" and rear leaks

The first time this happens you will know it, the boot lock when opened sounds like a machine gun as the boot lock mechanism doesnt lift high enough off the lock. Again, prehaps after air bag light the most common fault on the cars.

A few simple twists of the black rubbers either side of the boot to raise the boot light alignment height will resolve this always unless the motor is faulty.

Rear light seals will usually be the fault of a boot leak and having nothing to door with the boot itself. Simply remove them from the car, and use some clear sealant around the seals to prevent this happening again.

Also the rear "atmosphere" vents in the boot can leak, this guide explains how to fix them in great detail.

Fixing leaking boot vents

Also in the tourer, check the seal around the rear window hasnt become dislodged or torn, this is a major cause of rear leaks in tourers along with rear light cluster clips that are broken off.

Steering alignment / snapped springs

Tyres often wear unevenly, especially at the rear. Some cars were supplied with misaligned suspension when new. It’s always a good idea to check rear tyre wear on early models, the best solution being to get a four-wheel alignment done. Front coil springs are also prone to breaking but the rears can also go.

When having a full wheel allignment done it has been discovered that the car needs to have a FULL tank of petrol else i will continue to drift slightly to the left!

In car Diagnostic Mode

Nice handy one this to test the dash is working fully, follow the simple guide and use the cluster test to ensure your dash and systems are functioning correctly!
Diagnostic Mode via the dash- Updated, Clarified and Simplified

Two videos are below showing the Cluster System test in action.

Dash test of IPk dials without trip computer

Dash test with IPK trip computer fitted

Handy streamlined buyers guide

This is a useful and streamlined guide for viewing a car, prehaps as a first viewing should you be interested or if you know little about buying cars.

Again, thanks to "rrobson" for taking the time to produce this for everyone benefit!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rrobson

Information and documents
Service history
Road tax disc,and if not sorn documentation.
Previous MOT's, and look specifically for any advisories
Any receipts and that they coincide with the service history
HPI check

Exterior
Wheels and tyres, tyres aren't bald/damaged and wheels aren't buckled (may need to get under car to check inner rim) and uneven wear
Suspension components, springs aren't broken and car doesn't sit to one side, dampers work effectively (you will need to get under the car to check the springs)
Exhaust, not rusty or about to drop off
Look for any lights that stay on (a bulb failure will show up now, so of there are no lights on, there are no bulbs out / problems)
Bumpers + doors, all undamaged and gaps are small and consistent, doors open + close as they should, all doors unlock, boot unlocks with key + button (pre facelift /mk1) button in car and with fob (facelift/mk2)
Paintwork, check condition and all panels are the same colour
Bonnet, check it opens properly
Body/sills for clamp marks, as it is a tell tale sign of an accident damaged car

Engine bay
When inspecting the car, make sure the garage or owner doesnt turn the car on before you get there so you can check fluid levels
Fluid levels, oil, coolant, power steering, brake (under panel below windscreen)
Engine mountings
Radiator, check for damage or leak
Coolant staining, any pink / red / orange staining in the engine bay is coolant, may have leaked.
Brake lines, corroded/damaged is an MOT failure
Check for mayo on dipstick or under oil filler cap - head gasket failure!
Check the plenum where the brake fluid is for water


Engine
Check it starts fine
Listen for any knocking noises/noises that it shouldn't be making
Check the engine runs smoothly
Check it revs freely
Check clutch, make sure bite is in the middle, not at the top of bottom
Check the gearbox,
(manual) make sure each gear engages properly and doesn't jump out when the clutch is brought up to the bite in each gear
(auto) make sure gear changes are smooth, not snappy or harsh, and make sure each mode can be engaged and that when each specific gear is selected, it changes down appropriately and goes no higher than the selected gear
Check the fan, press the demist button and the low speed fan should kick in
Check the engine idles properly, no fluctuation in revs
When the engine is warm, make sure no coolant is coming out of the cap

Interior
Check all seats for wear/damage + feel supportive
Check all dash + steering wheel is clean ond undamaged
Check all buttons on dash work as they should
Check all seats adjust properly
Check all mirrors work
Check all windows work
Check that the handbrake holds the car properly (may need to do while driving)
Check the brakes, don't feel spongy or pull to side
Check the radio works and has a code (if required)

When driving
Don't have the radio on at this time so you can listen for noises
Check steering feels OK, no knocks etc + turn fully lock to lock
Check that the car accelerates properly
Check that the breaks work properly
Drive over bumps to listen for rattles
Check that the steering wheel is straight when driving straight
Check the car drives straight and not to one side


When the car is properly warm, or when you get back, turn the car off and restart it, camshaft sensor sometimes stops working when the engine is hot so wont start.

Last edited by Robson Rover Repair; 3rd September 2011 at 20:13..
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Old 23rd January 2013, 00:27   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin_NI View Post
Fellow club members and new visitors, im working on this and will be developing this continuously. Any information that is wrong, tell me in the 'comments' thread below.

Ultimate Buyers Guide - The comments thread
All posts have been moved to the thread as above as was the OP's wishes.

Thread closed.

Colin, if you wish to amend let a mod know and we will open for you
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Old 19th February 2023, 21:17   #8
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Fantastic detail, thanks!
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