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20th August 2011, 12:33 | #1 |
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Jaguar XJ 3.0 V6 Auto (X350) & Hyundai Tuscon 2020 Join Date: Oct 2008
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Water Loss? Here Goes!
OK this may well start a debate going.
My 1.8 monitor the water regularly as us 1.8 owners do and have come to the conclusion that short journeys do have an effect on the water level. If the water drops it is obviously going somewhere but: Observation 1 - There is no mayo, the oil is new and clean and no oil in the water. No obvious signs of water leaking either. Observation 2 - When driven on a long journey or regular long journeys there is no loss of water, not a drop. Observation 3 - When driven on regular short journeys with no long journey say over a week long period and with the engine not getting much above 80 degrees there is a loss of water. Now, if there was a leak then regardless of hot/cold long or short there would be a constant and regular loss of water So why is it that short journeys have an effect on the water level against long journeys where the water level remains constant? Begin.....
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20th August 2011, 15:04 | #2 |
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As the car warms to full temp whatever is leaking (hose clip etc) expands closing the problem.
When only used on short journies the problem never gets hot enough to close. Or is that too easy. Had a stat housing on a KV6 that did that once. From a very non technical member |
20th August 2011, 15:10 | #3 |
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Interesting one. Coolant loss was the reason I got shut of my previous car. What I did notice what that I could actually go quite some distance if I was careful, but commuting crucified the loss.
The actual cause of the loss was either a head gasket or a liner. What I put the difference down to was when going a distaance, the engine would spend most of its time on a light load, with minimal turbo input. When commuting, there was a lot more stop/start and more boost from the turbo. Not that that helps you much! Paul |
20th August 2011, 15:15 | #4 |
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Look at all your hose clips.
my car over heated this week, fould it to be a hose clip I have not put back right some weeks ago. never lost any water till I went though London slowly when let most of the water onto the road, redone clip over 300miles on all fine. |
20th August 2011, 17:16 | #5 |
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All hoses checked and clips seem fine, but will check again.
Just to add, on the short journeys the temp gauge just gets over 80 degree so not that hot. also in a stop start situation a journey through London last week no water loss. If it was all journeys then it would be understandable as the engine always goes from a cold start. I have been monitoring this for well over a year and no leaks were found at Lates recently. I can run the car for months and provided it does a long journey not a drop goes a week of shorts and drops to minimum and this is another thing never below that. Must be going mad where's the straight jacket
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"The only thing to do with good advice is pass it on. It is never any use to oneself" Last edited by Parker; 20th August 2011 at 17:18.. |
20th August 2011, 17:55 | #6 |
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If you have checked the cooling system and the water pump and on top the inlet manifold, then it is disappearing inside the engine.
I have just taken the liners out of my wife"s 1.8T, where I used Wondarweld. The aux belt snapped and wound itself under the cambelt. All valves bent and two broken. Liner broken, head slightly wounded. I have put new valves in, ground the seats and knocked all liners out. Skimmed the head lightly to get rid of the scars and skimmed the block lightly. But, and this is really the point there is clear evidence of the Wondarweld having penetrated under/behind the sleeves on three of the cylinders. The original conclusion was thus right, and Wondarweld cured the problem for good. Had we not had the problem with the belt, that engine would still be going strong. I suggest you put your thinking cap on. One thing for sure, when these sleeves go in again, they are going to be sealed on the whole interference area, either Loctite or some heavy duty silicone. |
20th August 2011, 19:10 | #7 |
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This happened to me, not Rover related, once and the only thing I could come up with was as follows. By the way, it worked.
Don't mistake 'coolant loss' for merely an apparently reduced level. If the apparent 'loss' is slight it might just indicate a reduced amount of coolant overall. On a very short journey, it might not be enough to fully open the thermostat and allow the full amount to circulate, giving a low visible level. Then on a longer trip the total volume flows. Properly bleed the system, slowly. Then, when cool, top up again. Continue until no more coolant is necessary. It also happened frequently on several of the P6's I had. Starting from cold, I topped up with the rad cap off. When I could see the coolant flowing I knew there was a reasonable amount in there and there were no blockages. Then with the cap on, it heated and pressurised up, bleeding off the excess through the overflow. I've no doubt that if I've got it hopelessly wrong then a suitably qualified other will be along in a minute to set the record straight! |
20th August 2011, 19:15 | #8 | |
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Quote:
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20th August 2011, 19:58 | #9 |
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Hi,
Maybe worth trying a new Expansion Tank Filler Cap and see if this cures the problem. No logic for this suggestion but the old cap could be playing up for some reason best known to science. Just a thought. Regards, Telfer. |
20th August 2011, 20:07 | #10 |
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Phil,not trying to show you how to suck eggs,the coolant level should be maintained to the max mark visible from inside the tank,any excess will be forced out of the tank.
The cap,for the price of a replacement should be replaced if found suspect. This coolant system,seems to find it's own level so try and monitor this. |
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