It's alive but not well !!!!!!! - Page 3

minimutly · 11th December 2016, 17:01

Yes, cracked liner(not unheard of, especially on a turbo), leaking liner seal, again not uncommon if someone disturbed them while doing the HG.
If you decide to go ahead to repair, check liner heights and big end besrings first - if they're both OK it's safe to rebuild the engine, other wise find another and check that before fittin.

wildie1972 · 11th December 2016, 17:08

Hi Simon when I last corrected the timing it was quite a few teeth out running smoothly but no real power so I retimed it using all the original parts and got it within half a tooth - that was a couple of weeks ago and made a big difference to the power. It's now a full tooth out on the exhaust cam not sure why it appears to be tensioned up ok.

Your plan sounds like a good one Simon do the gasket and seals along with a new timing belt kit and retimed it up with new fluids and oil filter.

To answer colverts question I changed the inlet manifold seal as part of some diagnostics which turned out to be a badly worn turbo.

So I guess the next question is where to get a full head gasket kit once I've removed the head and confirmed which type of gasket to go for.

TomRS · 12th December 2016, 11:40

As above, i wouldnt be running the engine anymore, if the oil light is flickering at idle that means your down to less than 5psi oil pressure.
Normal idle pressure when cold should be well over 3 bar 45psi, and when hot it should really be around 1.5 - 2bar 20-30psi.

my GTR runs upwards of 70psi when warm doing about 3000rpm and will sit at around 20-25psi on idle with oil temps around the 70-80degrees mark.

If you have low oil pressure and bottom end rattle i'd say its fairly terminal, it might be cheaper buying a good used engine or a breaker (that runs) and doing it that way.

More investigation needed, i'd be hooking up a pressure gauge and verifying the pressure, but i'd be careful as you'll be doing more and more damage every time you start it if the pressure is low and there's water in the oil.

SD1too · 12th December 2016, 12:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomRS

... if the oil light is flickering at idle ..

I can't find any reference to a flickering oil warning lamp in the OP's reports Tom. Where did you see this?

Simon

TomRS · 12th December 2016, 13:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

I can't find any reference to a flickering oil warning lamp in the OP's reports Tom. Where did you see this?

Simon

Here it is simon

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildie1972

Forgot to mention that when I'm sat in traffic the oil light flickers as well.

Number 6 · 12th December 2016, 14:10

It is mentioned in one or two post's that there is a "Blob" of mayo on the end of the dipstick.
This could be caused by one of two things or both.

1,The engine was not flushed out enough and is the residue of the original HGF

2, If the car is used on short journeys in this weather you will get condensation in the engine which will give you a little "Blob" of mayo looking stuff on the end of the Dip stick.,he cure would be to give it a decent run up to temp.

But in this case it appears that this would not be feasible due to the possible problem with the bottom end.

But as ever I stand to be corrected

SD1too · 12th December 2016, 16:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomRS

Here it is simon

Thanks Tom. How did I miss that; post no. 3!

It's not a good sign is it. This car has not been looked after in its previous life.

Simon

wildie1972 · 12th December 2016, 16:45

All the replies are suggesting the bottom end has gone. It has full service history and receipts for loads of work done. Are we now saying the head gasket is OK and it's the bottom end?

SD1too · 12th December 2016, 17:03

I don't think any of us can give you a definitive answer Graham.

On the oil light, I'm clutching at straws here but the simple things shouldn't be overlooked. Is the level correct and could Mr. Previous Owner have used a very low viscosity oil and not changed it when due? If you drain the sump you will know whether or not the mayo is a serious problem.

We could all go on guessing for ever Graham. I'm afraid you're going to have to start investigating to determine where the trouble lies. Sorry.

Simon

TomRS · 13th December 2016, 10:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildie1972

All the replies are suggesting the bottom end has gone. It has full service history and receipts for loads of work done. Are we now saying the head gasket is OK and it's the bottom end?

Take a video of this noise, and get a mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up to rule out any silly wiring faults.

Although im fairly sure from your description that its bottom end failure and or HG too.
To be honest it sounds like the whole engine is a mess, loss of water any mayo on the dipstick could likely be water in oil.
Then combined with the rough running, flickering oil light and knocking noise, i'd probably go with cracked liner, HGF leading to bad repairs and maybe too much sealant used, blocking the oil pump strainer causing low oil pressure leading to big end failure.

Who knows, but i'd shoot up a video and get a mech oil gauge on the go, but if it were me i'd be looking into a 2nd hand engine to replace... or buy a running breaker.
You only need the motor, turbo etc you already have

12th December 2016, 11:40	#23
TomRS Posted a thing or two Mk1 ZT 190 - Mk2 ZS 180 - Mercedes E63 AMG S - Ford Ranger Hawk Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Middlesbrough Posts: 1,456 Thanks: 123 Thanked 409 Times in 281 Posts	As above, i wouldnt be running the engine anymore, if the oil light is flickering at idle that means your down to less than 5psi oil pressure. Normal idle pressure when cold should be well over 3 bar 45psi, and when hot it should really be around 1.5 - 2bar 20-30psi. my GTR runs upwards of 70psi when warm doing about 3000rpm and will sit at around 20-25psi on idle with oil temps around the 70-80degrees mark. If you have low oil pressure and bottom end rattle i'd say its fairly terminal, it might be cheaper buying a good used engine or a breaker (that runs) and doing it that way. More investigation needed, i'd be hooking up a pressure gauge and verifying the pressure, but i'd be careful as you'll be doing more and more damage every time you start it if the pressure is low and there's water in the oil. __________________ http://i66.tinypic.com/5cd6xj.jpg

12th December 2016, 14:10	#26
Number 6 This is my second home Rover 75 tourer Club CD/Limo Tints Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Meneac Posts: 6,759 Thanks: 5,007 Thanked 1,609 Times in 869 Posts	It is mentioned in one or two post's that there is a "Blob" of mayo on the end of the dipstick. This could be caused by one of two things or both. 1,The engine was not flushed out enough and is the residue of the original HGF 2, If the car is used on short journeys in this weather you will get condensation in the engine which will give you a little "Blob" of mayo looking stuff on the end of the Dip stick.,he cure would be to give it a decent run up to temp. But in this case it appears that this would not be feasible due to the possible problem with the bottom end. But as ever I stand to be corrected __________________ ] "I started out with nothing, and Ive still got most of it left!"

12th December 2016, 17:03	#29
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,394 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	I don't think any of us can give you a definitive answer Graham. On the oil light, I'm clutching at straws here but the simple things shouldn't be overlooked. Is the level correct and could Mr. Previous Owner have used a very low viscosity oil and not changed it when due? If you drain the sump you will know whether or not the mayo is a serious problem. We could all go on guessing for ever Graham. I'm afraid you're going to have to start investigating to determine where the trouble lies. Sorry. Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

11th December 2016, 17:01	#21
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	Yes, cracked liner(not unheard of, especially on a turbo), leaking liner seal, again not uncommon if someone disturbed them while doing the HG. If you decide to go ahead to repair, check liner heights and big end besrings first - if they're both OK it's safe to rebuild the engine, other wise find another and check that before fittin.

11th December 2016, 17:08	#22
wildie1972 Regular poster MG ZT 1.8 turbo+ Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: keighley Posts: 85 Thanks: 7 Thanked 11 Times in 5 Posts	Hi Simon when I last corrected the timing it was quite a few teeth out running smoothly but no real power so I retimed it using all the original parts and got it within half a tooth - that was a couple of weeks ago and made a big difference to the power. It's now a full tooth out on the exhaust cam not sure why it appears to be tensioned up ok. Your plan sounds like a good one Simon do the gasket and seals along with a new timing belt kit and retimed it up with new fluids and oil filter. To answer colverts question I changed the inlet manifold seal as part of some diagnostics which turned out to be a badly worn turbo. So I guess the next question is where to get a full head gasket kit once I've removed the head and confirmed which type of gasket to go for.

12th December 2016, 16:45	#28
wildie1972 Regular poster MG ZT 1.8 turbo+ Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: keighley Posts: 85 Thanks: 7 Thanked 11 Times in 5 Posts	All the replies are suggesting the bottom end has gone. It has full service history and receipts for loads of work done. Are we now saying the head gasket is OK and it's the bottom end?