KV6 PAS Pump

martynt87 · 14th April 2020, 13:31

Hi All,

Just thought I'd share my experience of the removing / repairing the above item.

My driveway is quite steeply sloped, so I wasn't confident removing the engine mount and supporting the block on a jack. I didn't like the idea of a KV6 lump angled down my driveway.

My Pump was leaking very badly from the gasket between the two halves as well as the O ring on the inlet pipe.

I remove the undertray, put a ratchet up into the tensioner and a jack handle on the end to give me some leverage. I then removed the belt off the crank pulley, let the tensioner back (with the jack handle still in place to let it rest) and moved to the top of the engine.

I then removed the bar across the top of the pump, and the belt cover.

Next, I removed the pipework to the pump and pushed this out the way - with some clingfilm over the open bits!

I used a socket extension through a hole in the PAS pulley and wedged this in order to be able to remove the three pulley bolts.

I then set about using a ratchet spanner to undo the three mounting bolts in equal amounts. The top bolt you can remove entirely the 'bottom' two I undid as much as possible with the pump pushed towards the gearbox side of the engine. I then lined up the holes in the pulley with the bolts and pushed the pump back towards the belts. This allowed the heads of the bolts through the holes in the pulley which I could then undo. You can't remove these bolts entirely, but you are then able to remove the pump.

I then set about undoing the 'spout' for the intake and replaced the O ring here which was very crushed.

Following on, I separated the pump and removed what was left of my gasket. I cleaned the faces of the two halves and took the plastic part of the remaining gasket into the house.

I used 'Flexoid' oil proof gasket paper of 0.8mm thickness and traced out the gasket. Cut it out, using scissors, a scalpel and (luckily for me) a professional hole punch with varying sizes to make it neat.

I fitted the gasket and re-assembled the pump before slotting the pump back in the car.

Refit is the reverse of removal as they say.

Time wise - and not having access to a Haynes manual, it took me about an hour or so to get the pump out, but about 30 mins to put back. The longest bit of time is screwing back the (very long!) pas pump mounting bolts as initially, you can only do very small turns until you can get a ratchet spanner in-between the pulley and the bolt heads.

Suffice to say, I now have no 'boiling' in the PAS fluid, no puddles under the car and no nasty noises.

Hope this helps some of you.

14th April 2020, 13:31	#1
martynt87 Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: Fareham Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 1 Post	KV6 PAS Pump Hi All, Just thought I'd share my experience of the removing / repairing the above item. My driveway is quite steeply sloped, so I wasn't confident removing the engine mount and supporting the block on a jack. I didn't like the idea of a KV6 lump angled down my driveway. My Pump was leaking very badly from the gasket between the two halves as well as the O ring on the inlet pipe. I remove the undertray, put a ratchet up into the tensioner and a jack handle on the end to give me some leverage. I then removed the belt off the crank pulley, let the tensioner back (with the jack handle still in place to let it rest) and moved to the top of the engine. I then removed the bar across the top of the pump, and the belt cover. Next, I removed the pipework to the pump and pushed this out the way - with some clingfilm over the open bits! I used a socket extension through a hole in the PAS pulley and wedged this in order to be able to remove the three pulley bolts. I then set about using a ratchet spanner to undo the three mounting bolts in equal amounts. The top bolt you can remove entirely the 'bottom' two I undid as much as possible with the pump pushed towards the gearbox side of the engine. I then lined up the holes in the pulley with the bolts and pushed the pump back towards the belts. This allowed the heads of the bolts through the holes in the pulley which I could then undo. You can't remove these bolts entirely, but you are then able to remove the pump. I then set about undoing the 'spout' for the intake and replaced the O ring here which was very crushed. Following on, I separated the pump and removed what was left of my gasket. I cleaned the faces of the two halves and took the plastic part of the remaining gasket into the house. I used 'Flexoid' oil proof gasket paper of 0.8mm thickness and traced out the gasket. Cut it out, using scissors, a scalpel and (luckily for me) a professional hole punch with varying sizes to make it neat. I fitted the gasket and re-assembled the pump before slotting the pump back in the car. Refit is the reverse of removal as they say. Time wise - and not having access to a Haynes manual, it took me about an hour or so to get the pump out, but about 30 mins to put back. The longest bit of time is screwing back the (very long!) pas pump mounting bolts as initially, you can only do very small turns until you can get a ratchet spanner in-between the pulley and the bolt heads. Suffice to say, I now have no 'boiling' in the PAS fluid, no puddles under the car and no nasty noises. Hope this helps some of you.