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7th March 2021, 09:36 | #131 |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redruth
Posts: 984
Thanks: 1,324
Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts
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The dogbone linkage was rotating asymmetrically. I had a new one, but the old one was held so tight in the key barrel linkage I bailed from trying to pull it out for fear of damaging the plastic casing around the drive from the key barrel. I had to satisfy myself with just lining it up better so that when I offered up the new actuator it was as symmetrical as possible. The dogbone itself wasn't actually bent. In fact, the new one I received looked so solid, I felt happy leaving the old one in, but remain puzzled as to why I couldn't remove the old one and whether it being held so tightly might be a portend of future problems? I've filed away 'Stocktake's' advice that there is a cable connecting the barrel assembly to the lock assembly. If the driver's door starts playing up again, I'll be taking off the barrel assembly and investigating that cable and the mechanism. Just now however, all is well, and I'm a dog with three tails and a spare dogbone
Last edited by edwardmk; 7th March 2021 at 11:24.. Reason: typo |
8th March 2021, 22:38 | #132 |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redruth
Posts: 984
Thanks: 1,324
Thanked 399 Times in 271 Posts
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A sudden current drain caused my battery to go very flat. The ticking noise was the BBUS trying to sound with no power ( it might have been going off all night without us hearing it ) I needed to access the battery, but with no power, the fob couldn't unlock the car. In my case, the manual key also failed to open the driver's door
Fortunately I managed to charge up the battery via pin 9 on the tow socket. Without a permanent live pin 9 on the tow socket, it would have been a very awkward job getting the bonnet open to access the battery. Conclusion. Check your manual key will open the car when the battery is disconnected. If it doesn't, you run the risk of quite a palaver to access the battery, (especially if all the mods to the bonnet release cable have been done to secure it firmly at the underbonnet splitter link. The issues with the door latches were coincidental and not caused by the flat battery. I chose the fast option and bought new latch/actuators from Rimmers. Tip.... Don't press down the card button lever before fitting a driver's door actuator. It will be out of sync when fitted and cause issues with correct operation. Both front doors are now working correctly. I added extra "Roadkill" insulation on the inner face of the outer skin of both doors while I was there before replacing the door cards. (Completely forgot to lube the drivers door carrier rails for the electric windows, but did remember the passenger side.) Now I have to track down the random current draw, but at least if the battery goes flat again, the manual key now opens the driver's door like it should Many thanks again to everyone who posted advice PS. If anyone wants to examine the locks I took off, just let me know and I'll post them. The passenger lock latch was OK, but the actuator didn't seem to work. The actuator in the driver's lock was working, but weak. |
13th March 2021, 18:56 | #133 | |
Gets stuck in
75 Tourer Automatic conn, 75 Saloon Automatic Conn, The Monograme Spice Tourer Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Johnstone
Posts: 670
Thanks: 57
Thanked 231 Times in 151 Posts
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Quote:
Best lock lubricant is cabba lock cleaner. The new tins are butane powered rather than the pump spray of the old tins have bought a new tin to compare with my old tins the stuff inside is still the same just new packaging and now gas powered. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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