|
||
|
19th May 2021, 17:44 | #1 |
Avid contributor
mg zt-t 226th made from total of 396 Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: chelmsford
Posts: 155
Thanks: 175
Thanked 55 Times in 37 Posts
|
stud removal
While in the process of replacing rusty exhaust manifold nuts guess what i did?? Yep, two studs just broke off. Lots of naughty words later i find they must have been broken for quite a time. I had soaked them for a week in plus gas and barely put any pressure on the ratchet before they just dropped out. Now of course i have the wonderful job of trying to get the remains out of the head. I really hadnt planned on removing the cylinder head but unless one of you wizards can suggest a short cut i guess thats now my only hope. I suspect a previous owner bodged it before passing the problem on to the unsuspecting fool who now owns it.
|
19th May 2021, 17:47 | #2 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,912
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
|
look on Youtube, there are many examples of how to remove a stuck stud
macafee2 |
19th May 2021, 19:32 | #3 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
|
Unless you are good at fiddly delicate things it's best left to an expert.--Normally if they are reasonably easy to get at they need to be drilled DEAD CENTER.---Then a stud extractor carefully screwed into the drilled hole.---Now you come to the delicate bit. Stud extractors are made from high carbon steel and are very delicate.--It's VERY easy to put a bit of sideways pressure on the extractor and SNAP it.---You then end up with the doubly difficult job of removing something that is too hard to drill.---
PS. The moral of your story is------If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.--- |
19th May 2021, 21:53 | #4 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,912
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
|
I don't know the studs, is any stud poking out of the hole or is there thread in the hole you can screw into?
Drilling dead centre, I found a neat trick on Youtube. If you have the tools its a piece of cake. macafee2 |
20th May 2021, 00:22 | #5 |
Loves to post
Rover75 tourer Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Ashton
Posts: 428
Thanks: 121
Thanked 206 Times in 145 Posts
|
Four solutions, some can with a bit of luck be done in situ.
1) If there is sufficient stud standing proud, weld a nut on it, the direct heat on the stud usually helps as well. 2) Flush with the head, drill and use a stud extractor, either the tapered left hand thread type or the spline type, used with care as mentioned above, but if it is well and truly rusted in it may not shift. 3) Drill out and tap to the next size up space permitting. 4) Expensive but sometimes a life saver when used by a skilled operator.......spark erosion. To prevent a reoccurrence, use stainless or brass nuts and some high temp ceramic anti-seize compound.
__________________
Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it. |
20th May 2021, 11:47 | #6 |
Avid contributor
mg zt-t 226th made from total of 396 Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: chelmsford
Posts: 155
Thanks: 175
Thanked 55 Times in 37 Posts
|
thank you all for the advice. will attempt to drill and use easy out in situ, space is really limited between manifold and rad but a right angle drill adapter might just do the job if i am very careful. the you tube vids are really good as guides to doing a never attempted job. the studs i have removed either came out really easy or just snapped off ( 2 in total ) level with the head surface. I have a set of stainless replacements waiting to go in if this works. If not I will have to remove the head so I have enough room to rectify the problem. will post on progress ( or lack of knowing my luck.) chris.
|
20th May 2021, 13:55 | #7 | |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
|
Quote:
When using the stud extractor a double ended holder is needed so you can put an equal pressure on the extractor and not just on one side.--The loading needs to be axial.--- |
|
20th May 2021, 18:11 | #8 |
Avid contributor
MG ZT-T+ 190 Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bristol
Posts: 224
Thanks: 101
Thanked 19 Times in 16 Posts
|
If you can, try and make a drilling jig, so that you stand a fair chance of drilling and not snapping
This is for a Porsche but you get the idea. https://www.design911shop.com/Stomsk...4aAnieEALw_wcB
__________________
1186th ZT-T 190 out of 1756 |
20th May 2021, 18:13 | #9 |
Avid contributor
MG ZT-T+ 190 Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Bristol
Posts: 224
Thanks: 101
Thanked 19 Times in 16 Posts
|
__________________
1186th ZT-T 190 out of 1756 Last edited by Thunderbolt; 23rd May 2021 at 22:13.. Reason: Awetoekawreck |
22nd May 2021, 22:46 | #10 |
Posted a thing or two
rover 75 club se Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Leicester
Posts: 1,640
Thanks: 358
Thanked 419 Times in 310 Posts
|
studs
these studs are extremely hard and especially brittle.i suppose that its the heat that they have to endure.even when they are new they can shear off very easily whilst tightening unless you release any other pressures on the flanges i.e. a hanging exhaust your trying to mate up. rimmers dont sell these now for the kv6 ... only when buying a new manifold complete. i had the same issue as the op has. the broken stud would not tap out or drive out in situ too much flex.... they are on splines and are driven in sometimes not aligned properly when the bolt is first tightened from new. he is correct .. no room to manoever very tight in there especially lying on your back working. i did however manage to remove 2 of them using a ball joint separator with a little improvision. would have been better with a bolt and nuts setup but there must have been a reason for this set up ...
|
|
|