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Old 3rd August 2021, 21:54   #21
steve-45
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Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
The stop co(k, omg dont go there, look at this and you will understand
https://www.screwfix.com/p/isolating...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

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If your going to put one of these on a main supply pipe, I would certainly use a FULL BORE version, see screwfix item 46860, as flow could be restricted too much using a non-full bore type.
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Old 4th August 2021, 07:36   #22
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If you do not find another main stop valve and you have work planned, then instal one below those two isolation valves and before the division.
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Old 4th August 2021, 08:32   #23
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If your going to put one of these on a main supply pipe, I would certainly use a FULL BORE version, see screwfix item 46860, as flow could be restricted too much using a non-full bore type.
i cannot figure out why they would fit 2 to the incoming mains supply, even with 2 that may only equal something like a 12mm bore, even if more they will be restricted by a pipe somewhere between meter and the valves.

totally agree full bore is the way to go.

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Old 4th August 2021, 08:33   #24
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If you do not find another main stop valve and you have work planned, then instal one below those two isolation valves and before the division.
yes want stop cocks fitted lower down but these silly silver things I want removed.

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Old 4th August 2021, 09:34   #25
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But, if the small isolators are not in view that would be unnecessary work; obviously dependant on the amount of room to work.
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Old 4th August 2021, 10:37   #26
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But, if the small isolators are not in view that would be unnecessary work; obviously dependant on the amount of room to work.
they are in view and are apparently the "stop cocks". They are also, if left undisturbed for a long time and then turned off, prone to leaking.
I want them out.

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Old 4th August 2021, 13:06   #27
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no, I'm sure we can though. What are we looking for, the route of the water main?

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Yes it could well be marked out by the house builder,like boundaries sewerage etc.
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Old 4th August 2021, 16:14   #28
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The route of the main can be traced by the water in it. This works even with a plastic pipe. Most builders will have the simple kit needed.



PS. That in line valve can also serve as a stopcock. Make sure it's easy to get at, that's all. Can be fitted under your kitchen sink to save dashing out in the road on a dark winters night to switch off the mains supply to the house.
OK. Ignore this post as you are all trying very hard to find something difficult.---
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Old 5th August 2021, 15:41   #29
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Get rid of the isolating valves, they're not designed for use underground.
Replace them with a good quality stoptap, that is one with a washer, and made from DZR brass. BES do one, part no 7547, they will deliver next day but it will cost.
Don't ever use a gate valve for anything, they always fail eventually.
Your water meter should have a stop valve built in that will allow you to sort out the plumbing.
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Old 5th August 2021, 16:18   #30
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Get rid of the isolating valves, they're not designed for use underground.
Replace them with a good quality stoptap, that is one with a washer, and made from DZR brass. BES do one, part no 7547, they will deliver next day but it will cost.
Don't ever use a gate valve for anything, they always fail eventually.
Your water meter should have a stop valve built in that will allow you to sort out the plumbing.
The valves are not underground.
I have had experience of gate valves, they seize and then the hand wheel comes off and so I want the isolating valves replaced with stop cocks.

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