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2nd November 2021, 14:31 | #11 |
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Ok - Completely stripped down the rear and removed the backplate - which as a previous poster highlighted, was a much more difficult job than it first seemed.
Having removed the hub and started to tackle the back plate, the 4 Allen key bolts came out, although very tight given that they had had lock shield applied to the threads. It's at this point that the fun starts, I moved the plate 1 inch away from the carrier and could see the female union at the back of the plate which as indicated was clearly rusted on to the handbrake cable outer male sleeve. It did require a hack saw to slowly work around the outside of the female sleeve attached to the black plate to cut it from the handbrake cable linkage. The really good photos in the pdf supplied helped greatly. The next tricky part was cutting the rest of the outer female carrier from the handbrake linkage without cutting into the inner handbrake shield. Took me ages to get this off, but eventually it came loose. Reassembling everything and fitting the new backplate and new shoes etc was really satisfying after all the removal grunt work. Took it for a test drive and no more ticking and handbrake working great. Top tip - if you think you will allow an hour and a half to this job, do yourself a favour and add 2 more to it. Thanks for all the help guys. Regards Larry Last edited by larryr123; 5th November 2021 at 17:32.. |
3rd November 2021, 12:38 | #12 |
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Bad news the ticking noise is still there, despite having replaced the backplate and fitted a complete new brake shoe kit.
I'm at a complete loss to what this ticking noise is now. |
3rd November 2021, 14:49 | #13 | |
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Quote:
Try swapping.the wheels over (also check the opposite side's brake set up - in case the noise is being carried). Shocks failed, and simply rattling as you drive faster or slower over small imperfections on the road surface? These are long shots since you have done the obvious. The other thing would be if you had drilled or grooved discs. Mine make a clicking noise due to the air passing over them. But they do not scrape though. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
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3rd November 2021, 15:00 | #14 |
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Thanks CLF -- I'll try swapping the rear wheels over first as this is the simplest of the options. The sound does seem to be coming from the rear nearside, but you may be right the sound could carry and may be confusing the issue.
Not sure about the shocks though, given the ticking noise is there on smooth surfaces with little or no shock action. The brake discs seem fairly smooth and there is loads of meat on the pads. Frustrating as it is, it is at the moment just a noise and I don't see any safety issues around the main brake calliper and the brakes work well when applied at any speed and the handbrake is fully functional. Larry - More head scratching time. |
4th November 2021, 08:37 | #15 |
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Thanks to RogerHeinz57 for the detailed pdf showing the backplate removal procedure.
I would have been stuck without the clear guidance given. Regards Larry |
5th November 2021, 08:59 | #16 |
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I had this - of all things it was a deformed tyre. I'd have expected it from a budget, but this was a Uniroyal Rainsport!
Hard to see from the outside, but the inner edge had a large 'lump' which I hadn't noticed.
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5th November 2021, 17:44 | #17 |
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Good point DMGRS - I'll get round to swapping them over but didn't notice anything untoward when removing the wheel. All 4 tyres are uniform, Kormoran which are specified by Michelin, despite their Romanian manufacture.
Thanks for the twin set of rear plates and shoe kits I ordered from you, they seemed pretty good quality. Got to get this noise sorted though as its driving me crazy. Its in for an MOT on Wednesday so it will be interesting if this is picked up, unlikely as the brakes and hand brake seem fully functional. Anyone have a view that it could be shocks or coil springs? Also, if I inspect the brake calliper for the chatter mentioned in this thread, is it pretty obvious if item one in the diagram is loose ? Regards Larry |
8th November 2021, 19:23 | #18 |
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New development.
The ticking only occurs when travelling in a straight line. When I start to brake the ticking goes away. When turning or going round a roundabout the ticking stops. Also on reversing sometimes I feel a clunk. but again not every time. Rather tricky to diagnose. |
8th November 2021, 20:47 | #19 | |
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Quote:
I have had a clunk in the past when selecting reverse on another car it was a pattern part pad, about 1 or 2 mm too small. Extra grease solved the noise until I could afford new pads. On my ZT, I had a cluck in reverse, which was alarmingly present over speed bumps and pot holes. This was down to loose caliper carrier bolts. Check also screws that hold on the discs. If they are present but loose, it could be rattling around (whilst the disc is held on with the wheel). Jack up each corner and rotate each wheel in turn to check for the noise.
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9th November 2021, 12:49 | #20 |
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CLF thx for the feedback - just stripped the calliper down and cleaned the back of the outside pad which seemed a tad loose. Took out the guide pins and applied copper ease to the edges of the rear pad where it makes contact with the carrier. Applied copper ease to the back of the outside pad and the sliding edges to help what I assumed might be a loose pad moving on rotation.
Reinserted the guide pins and tightened them up and reinserted the front spring. Took it for a spin and its still ticking (knocking) with the rotational movement of the wheel and increases with speed. I notice the knocking is also there on turning which I didn't experience before. When you are travelling at speed and apply the brake, the knocking stops. Weird - not sure what else there is to try! Regards Larry |
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