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15th January 2014, 16:54 | #11 |
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Prising out scuttle clips is not required, you run the risk of scratching the scuttle panel and damaging the head of the clips, without mentioning the fact they have a habit of flying off in differant directions.
Stick some parcel tape or similar over the heads of the clips and gently lift the scuttle panel, the clips will remain in situ with the panel. |
15th January 2014, 17:01 | #12 | |
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Quote:
Place your thumb of your right hand over the extreme nearside clip, and your thumb and ring finger of the left hand over the next two clips. A sharp upwards tug, starting with the clip under your right hand will release it without damage, then after pocketing the clip, do the same with the remaining two. Job done. When replacing the upper shield, a spray of silicone, or "back to black" on the rubber seals will aid immensely the refitting process Brian |
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18th January 2014, 19:10 | #13 |
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Just a quick point JKR000030 is the correct part number but X-Part have now changed the number to JKR000031 so either is fine. As far as I know they do this when they change their supplier.
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19th January 2014, 18:38 | #14 |
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I have seen both the above methods used at nano's in my presents I myself would not use this method as I have also seen the front wind screen scuttle crack and break this way, if the person whom is doing the job first time round and is to enthusiastic when pulling upward, there stands a chance the scuttle could break.
As you can see below there is a void around the oval clip for a tool to be inserted so you can pop up the clip, by all means put your thumb or finger of your other hand over the top, or even use some masking tape over the clip while you prise the clip up but as always any method you choose to use be careful you are not in a race cheers Arctic. 1 2 below is what faced us when we removed the ECU today
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 8th February 2017 at 10:42.. |
19th January 2014, 20:02 | #15 |
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Thanks Arctic for this How To. I have this to do and was wondering how to do it.
This will be added to my many book marks Macafee2 |
19th January 2014, 20:21 | #16 |
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Many thanks Arctic for the time and effort you put in helping others to keep their cars in good order.
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Replaced pcv filter, springs, plenum spy hole mod,Bonnet cable divider mod. Wax oiled.Air con recharged. Auto box oil changed , Jules plenum guard fitted .Smoked wind deflectors fitted.S/S Compensator.Club Grill Badge kindly donated by Andyg2011.. |
19th January 2014, 20:43 | #17 |
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You got a horse under your bonnet Steve?
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Great Barr, Birmingham. |
26th February 2014, 17:58 | #18 |
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Thanks Arctic.. if only the Haynes manual was this good!
Doing mine asap, filter so full of pollen it's probably got bees living in it, and I can renew the rubber drain tube that sits under the filter.. Silly tip.. when working under the bonnet, have the car facing into the wind so the bonnet doesn't come down and bang you on the head. Happens to me all the time and I still forget.. Shaun |
26th February 2014, 18:16 | #19 |
I really should get out more.......
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Pollen
Hi Steve
Changed mine at the weekend but struggled to remove the ecu If the ecu has never been out there is a locking lug that can been clearly seen in fig 17 Centre of the plastic slide I had to gently push this in towards the windscreen with a long blade flat screw driver before I could budge the ecu from its slide Good experience though Regards Steve |
26th February 2014, 18:22 | #20 |
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Great how to. Even though mine is a petrol. Did mine today. Start to finish all done in 10 minutes.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
MODS DONE Plenum Spy Hole Mod, Plus drain holes Rodded. Bonnet Cable Divider Block Rotated. |
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