Ancillary drive belt replacement

Kevlunn · 10th April 2010, 16:41

My 2004 CDTi Tourer auto is due it's 6 year 'C' service. The official MG/Rover service schedule includes replacement of ancillary drive belt - but, of course, there are two - the main belt and the aircon drive belt. Do I assume that both should be replaced at the same time?

I've got both Haynes manual and Rave disk - neither belt replacement job looks 'very' difficult - but any advice would be welcome!

Kev

N1&EPR · 10th April 2010, 18:18

Not difficult at all. Strip the plastic wheel arch guard off, and it all becomes very clear.

If you are new to it, an hour and a half will see it done.

If you have a helper, brilliant, as it comes in handy when slipping the long serpentine belt on as you hold the tensioner back with the spanner.

Good luck, and have fun

2Diesels · 10th April 2010, 18:35

Not a nice job but not too difficult, as said above wheelarch liner out & 24mm spanner on the tensioner from underneath pull down & towards the front of the car, quite a strong spring but once you get it moving no problem.
The aircon belt is easy you just slacken the adjuster & pop it off & on, tension the belt & tighten the nut.
When refitting the main belt dont listen to Mr Haynes as I found it impossible doing it his way, I found it easier feeding it round the Water Pump & PAS Pump first, then the alternator, idler & tensioner & lastly the crank pulley then getly let the tension off & check the run of the belt.

One thing I will say which I say every time is Watch yer fingers!

iga · 10th April 2010, 23:21

Done this job on my 1.8T recently. Definitely easier with a helper to hold the tension whilst you thread the belts. Suggest putting the belt over the tensioner last in both cases.

2Diesels · 10th April 2010, 23:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by iga

Done this job on my 1.8T recently. Definitely easier with a helper to hold the tension whilst you thread the belts. Suggest putting the belt over the tensioner last in both cases.

You want to try it on a diesel, I'll guarantee crank pulley last is easiest

Kevlunn · 11th April 2010, 07:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2Diesels

You want to try it on a diesel, I'll guarantee crank pulley last is easiest

Many thanks to all of you who have responded. I'll call on my son to give me a hand with threading the replacement belt!

Cheers

Kev

bl52krz · 11th April 2010, 22:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by iga

Done this job on my 1.8T recently. Definitely easier with a helper to hold the tension whilst you thread the belts. Suggest putting the belt over the tensioner last in both cases.

done two last week, cdt's. found it better to put the belt over the fixed idler last.

foxspeed · 12th April 2010, 11:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl52krz

done two last week, cdt's. found it better to put the belt over the fixed idler last.

same here

Kevlunn · 12th April 2010, 18:08

I did the job today - and found it a bit of a NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-!

No problem removing old belts (the air-con compressor belt was badly cracked on the inside - although the main belt looked to be in quite good condition.)

Replaced the air-con belt easily - although my torque wrench, for some reason, would not 'click' when used anti-clockwise to apply the correct torque for the tensioner. I had to borrow another torque wrench to complete that job.

The main belt was a different matter. Got it 'threaded' with a bit of a struggle but then had problems releasing the tension on the tension pulley sufficiently in order to get the belt over the crankshaft pulley.

I have a slim 24mm spanner - open one end and ring the other. Although the ring only had a slight bend on it - it was enough to prevent it fitting between the tensioner nut and the body. I straightened the ring end in my vice - which result in distorting the ring so that it wouldn't fit anything! Using the open end I could never get enough movement on the tensioner pulley before the spanner slipped off. In the end it was a two man job - using some pressure on the tensioner and then 'winding' the belt onto the crankshaft pulley by turning the pulley with a socket.

Got there in the end - but I'm glad it's a job that only needs doing every six years!

Kev

ned78 · 12th April 2010, 22:16

On the CDT a 24mm spanner is difficult to fit in. I had to pull mine myself, and when it slipped, I cleaved a good inch and a half of skin from my thumb. So, note to self - wear rigger gloves in future.

I'm working on modifying the 24mm for the next time I need to do the job. Grinding back the offending area, and welding the opposite side to reinforce it seems the best step forward, but the arm needs to be bent too.

10th April 2010, 16:41	#1
Kevlunn Regular poster Rover 75 Tourer Conn SE CDTi auto Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Northwich Posts: 60 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Ancillary drive belt replacement My 2004 CDTi Tourer auto is due it's 6 year 'C' service. The official MG/Rover service schedule includes replacement of ancillary drive belt - but, of course, there are two - the main belt and the aircon drive belt. Do I assume that both should be replaced at the same time? I've got both Haynes manual and Rave disk - neither belt replacement job looks 'very' difficult - but any advice would be welcome! Kev __________________ Kev

12th April 2010, 18:08	#9
Kevlunn Regular poster Rover 75 Tourer Conn SE CDTi auto Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Northwich Posts: 60 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	I did the job today - and found it a bit of a NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-! No problem removing old belts (the air-con compressor belt was badly cracked on the inside - although the main belt looked to be in quite good condition.) Replaced the air-con belt easily - although my torque wrench, for some reason, would not 'click' when used anti-clockwise to apply the correct torque for the tensioner. I had to borrow another torque wrench to complete that job. The main belt was a different matter. Got it 'threaded' with a bit of a struggle but then had problems releasing the tension on the tension pulley sufficiently in order to get the belt over the crankshaft pulley. I have a slim 24mm spanner - open one end and ring the other. Although the ring only had a slight bend on it - it was enough to prevent it fitting between the tensioner nut and the body. I straightened the ring end in my vice - which result in distorting the ring so that it wouldn't fit anything! Using the open end I could never get enough movement on the tensioner pulley before the spanner slipped off. In the end it was a two man job - using some pressure on the tensioner and then 'winding' the belt onto the crankshaft pulley by turning the pulley with a socket. Got there in the end - but I'm glad it's a job that only needs doing every six years! Kev __________________ Kev

12th April 2010, 22:16	#10
ned78 Regular poster Rover 75 Cdt Tourer & JCW MINI Cooper S Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Cork, Ireland. Posts: 55 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	On the CDT a 24mm spanner is difficult to fit in. I had to pull mine myself, and when it slipped, I cleaved a good inch and a half of skin from my thumb. So, note to self - wear rigger gloves in future. I'm working on modifying the 24mm for the next time I need to do the job. Grinding back the offending area, and welding the opposite side to reinforce it seems the best step forward, but the arm needs to be bent too. __________________ http://miniclub.ie/forum/sigs-and-av...nsignature.jpg

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10th April 2010, 18:18	#2
N1&EPR Avid contributor MG ZT-T Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Glasgow Posts: 210 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Not difficult at all. Strip the plastic wheel arch guard off, and it all becomes very clear. If you are new to it, an hour and a half will see it done. If you have a helper, brilliant, as it comes in handy when slipping the long serpentine belt on as you hold the tensioner back with the spanner. Good luck, and have fun

10th April 2010, 18:35	#3
2Diesels Trader ZT 260SE, Connoisseur CDT Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: The Ancient Shire Of Bedlington Posts: 12,597 Thanks: 68 Thanked 506 Times in 305 Posts	Not a nice job but not too difficult, as said above wheelarch liner out & 24mm spanner on the tensioner from underneath pull down & towards the front of the car, quite a strong spring but once you get it moving no problem. The aircon belt is easy you just slacken the adjuster & pop it off & on, tension the belt & tighten the nut. When refitting the main belt dont listen to Mr Haynes as I found it impossible doing it his way, I found it easier feeding it round the Water Pump & PAS Pump first, then the alternator, idler & tensioner & lastly the crank pulley then getly let the tension off & check the run of the belt. One thing I will say which I say every time is Watch yer fingers!

10th April 2010, 23:21	#4
iga Avid contributor Rover 75 1.8t Conn SE Tourer Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Glasgow Posts: 124 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Done this job on my 1.8T recently. Definitely easier with a helper to hold the tension whilst you thread the belts. Suggest putting the belt over the tensioner last in both cases.