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10th April 2010, 16:41 | #1 |
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Rover 75 Tourer Conn SE CDTi auto Join Date: Jul 2009
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Ancillary drive belt replacement
My 2004 CDTi Tourer auto is due it's 6 year 'C' service. The official MG/Rover service schedule includes replacement of ancillary drive belt - but, of course, there are two - the main belt and the aircon drive belt. Do I assume that both should be replaced at the same time?
I've got both Haynes manual and Rave disk - neither belt replacement job looks 'very' difficult - but any advice would be welcome! Kev
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10th April 2010, 18:18 | #2 |
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Not difficult at all. Strip the plastic wheel arch guard off, and it all becomes very clear.
If you are new to it, an hour and a half will see it done. If you have a helper, brilliant, as it comes in handy when slipping the long serpentine belt on as you hold the tensioner back with the spanner. Good luck, and have fun |
10th April 2010, 18:35 | #3 |
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Not a nice job but not too difficult, as said above wheelarch liner out & 24mm spanner on the tensioner from underneath pull down & towards the front of the car, quite a strong spring but once you get it moving no problem.
The aircon belt is easy you just slacken the adjuster & pop it off & on, tension the belt & tighten the nut. When refitting the main belt dont listen to Mr Haynes as I found it impossible doing it his way, I found it easier feeding it round the Water Pump & PAS Pump first, then the alternator, idler & tensioner & lastly the crank pulley then getly let the tension off & check the run of the belt. One thing I will say which I say every time is Watch yer fingers! |
10th April 2010, 23:21 | #4 |
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Done this job on my 1.8T recently. Definitely easier with a helper to hold the tension whilst you thread the belts. Suggest putting the belt over the tensioner last in both cases.
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10th April 2010, 23:25 | #5 |
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11th April 2010, 07:42 | #6 | |
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Quote:
Cheers Kev
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11th April 2010, 22:54 | #7 |
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done two last week, cdt's. found it better to put the belt over the fixed idler last.
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12th April 2010, 11:06 | #8 |
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12th April 2010, 18:08 | #9 |
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I did the job today - and found it a bit of a NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-!
No problem removing old belts (the air-con compressor belt was badly cracked on the inside - although the main belt looked to be in quite good condition.) Replaced the air-con belt easily - although my torque wrench, for some reason, would not 'click' when used anti-clockwise to apply the correct torque for the tensioner. I had to borrow another torque wrench to complete that job. The main belt was a different matter. Got it 'threaded' with a bit of a struggle but then had problems releasing the tension on the tension pulley sufficiently in order to get the belt over the crankshaft pulley. I have a slim 24mm spanner - open one end and ring the other. Although the ring only had a slight bend on it - it was enough to prevent it fitting between the tensioner nut and the body. I straightened the ring end in my vice - which result in distorting the ring so that it wouldn't fit anything! Using the open end I could never get enough movement on the tensioner pulley before the spanner slipped off. In the end it was a two man job - using some pressure on the tensioner and then 'winding' the belt onto the crankshaft pulley by turning the pulley with a socket. Got there in the end - but I'm glad it's a job that only needs doing every six years! Kev
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12th April 2010, 22:16 | #10 |
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On the CDT a 24mm spanner is difficult to fit in. I had to pull mine myself, and when it slipped, I cleaved a good inch and a half of skin from my thumb. So, note to self - wear rigger gloves in future.
I'm working on modifying the 24mm for the next time I need to do the job. Grinding back the offending area, and welding the opposite side to reinforce it seems the best step forward, but the arm needs to be bent too. |
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