Bleeding brakes a warning

[Mike Noc]

Might be a fault or a blockage in the new caliper. Try clamping and disconnecting the hose and then pumping fluid through the caliper via the bleed nipple. If that checks out unclamp the hose and pump fluid through it using the brake pedal. Not unknown for hoses to collapse internally blocking the fluid flow.

[Arctic]

Hi Malakite.
Mike might be on to something, but i see you have added new hoses too, along with new Calipers, you may have air in the caliper, or maybe te brake line to that OS is leaking have you checked, you could have a faulty new hose ? did you try bench bleeding the caliper

Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don't lose it!
Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement.

Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.

Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.

Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)

Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.
Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
The assistant should respond with "released."
Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.

Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard' bleed.)

Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!

When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.

Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)
Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.

Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!

Re-install all four road wheels.

Raise the entire vehicle and remove jackstands. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's recommended limit. Re-install any hubcaps or wheel covers.

With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process.

Road test the vehicle to confirm proper function of the brakes. USE CAUTION THE FIRST TIME YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR AFTER MODIFICATION TO ENSURE THE PROPER FUNCTION OF ALL VEHICLE SYSTEMS!

the above copied from brake shop

[Malakite]

Hi guys thank you so much for your help. I will remove the brake pipe and see if fluid comes through freely - if so then I guess there is an issue with the caliper correct?!

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) ...
the above copied from brake shop

Sounds like an American website Steve?

The sequence for bleeding our RHD vehicles is:

1. Left hand rear (NSR)
2. Right hand rear (OSR)
3. Left hand front (NSF)
4. Right hand front (OSF)

Gunson Eezibleed makes the job easier!

Simon