Sanity check on trouble changing gear..

T16 · 12th February 2018, 21:53

So, I was doing about 85mph for 1.5hrs approx.

Parked up in Glasgow, or tried to, and noticed that the car was EXTREMELY troublesome getting into ANY gear with the engine running. Heard big clunks from the box as I was struggling with putting it in gear.

The car was nice and toasty from its run.

Now, fast-forward to today and yesterday, when the car is cold it feels 100% normal again.

Any ideas what can cause this aside from the obvious? Low box oil meaning the box running too warm?

Im assuming its the clutch seal on its way out, and that when its warm, it makes the issue worse somehow, air past the seal or who knows what.

Sound familiar with a change in temperature of the box?

COLVERT · 13th February 2018, 12:50

The clutch reservoir on the verge of being empty.

With the slave cylinder and pipes expanding with heat and taking slightly more fluid to fill them.----

---Just not enough to go around.--

T16 · 13th February 2018, 14:05

Fair enough, Im happy enough I think its the slave/clutch.

I think if the box was low on oil, the problems would be evident regardless of the temperature of the box.

Well, thats my hunch anyway.

marinabrian · 13th February 2018, 14:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by T16

Fair enough, Im happy enough I think its the slave/clutch.

I think if the box was low on oil, the problems would be evident regardless of the temperature of the box.

Well, thats my hunch anyway.

The master cylinder make up valve is partially blocked, causing the CSC bearing to remain in contact with the diaphragm spring.

After being driven at speed for the period of time that it had, the heat generated would have caused the clutch fluid to boil, and the symptoms you describe.

When you replace the CSC, use the quick coupling from the old unit combined with a pipe joiner to fix the bleed nipple.

Remove the piston from the master cylinder, clean out the one way valve, and the hole in the piston, wipe out the bore of the cylinder, then refit the piston.

Using the bleeding device you have made from the old slave pipework, bleed the master cylinder until clear fluid is expelled from the pipe, then you can connect up to the new slave in the knowledge that it won't be contaminated with dirty old fluid

Brian

T16 · 13th February 2018, 14:22

lol...

Im not doing any of that!

Master, slave, clutch all replaced at the same time....

)))

roverbarmy · 13th February 2018, 14:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by T16

lol...

Im not doing any of that!

Master, slave, clutch all replaced at the same time....

)))

I think that Brian

is trying to save you a big bill. Cleaning as he describes can/will prolong the life of your slave/clutch.
Mike

T16 · 13th February 2018, 17:19

Ahh well cheers Brian.

But I'm not messing around, dont have the time, patience or energy to faff around with failing ZTs all my life.

If a part is on its way to breaking, its getting replaced.

Last thing I need is to be stuck in Albania/Ukraine/Norway with a failed clutch.

Appreciate the tips though.

HarryM1BYT · 13th February 2018, 18:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by T16

Ahh well cheers Brian.

But I'm not messing around, dont have the time, patience or energy to faff around with failing ZTs all my life.

If a part is on its way to breaking, its getting replaced.

Last thing I need is to be stuck in Albania/Ukraine/Norway with a failed clutch.

Appreciate the tips though.

Even fitting all new, is no guarantee of something will not to fail. Quite a few items generally fail in the first few hours of operation. Even the best maintenance only reduces the chance of an issue.

marinabrian · 13th February 2018, 19:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by T16

lol...

Im not doing any of that!

Master, slave, clutch all replaced at the same time....

)))

There will be nothing wrong with the master cylinder Ross, and what I describe is actually quicker than replacement.

If it wasn't a proven method of doing the job, I wouldn't have suggested it........my previous "test car" had this done five years and almost 120,000 miles ago, and is still working well to this day, with the LUK Repset Pro.

What I will say is advice from someone who has used both methods for clutch replacement, remove the subframe completely, and don't do as you have in the past drop the subframe on one side.

This latter is a recipe for fatal slave cylinder errors, as well as actually being more difficult

Brian

P.S. are you using the ZT to run drugs?

T16 · 14th February 2018, 00:58

Last time I did a clutch it was 60k miles and felt the same as new.

Ill stick with what I know...

Got a crane which will help doing it alone.

Master has too much wear in the eyelet that contacts the pedal stub, so might as well replace the lot for the best piece of mind I'll get driving an old ZT.

After that, rear upper arms. sigh

12th February 2018, 21:53	#1
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Sanity check on trouble changing gear.. So, I was doing about 85mph for 1.5hrs approx. Parked up in Glasgow, or tried to, and noticed that the car was EXTREMELY troublesome getting into ANY gear with the engine running. Heard big clunks from the box as I was struggling with putting it in gear. The car was nice and toasty from its run. Now, fast-forward to today and yesterday, when the car is cold it feels 100% normal again. Any ideas what can cause this aside from the obvious? Low box oil meaning the box running too warm? Im assuming its the clutch seal on its way out, and that when its warm, it makes the issue worse somehow, air past the seal or who knows what. Sound familiar with a change in temperature of the box?

13th February 2018, 12:50	#2
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	The clutch reservoir on the verge of being empty. With the slave cylinder and pipes expanding with heat and taking slightly more fluid to fill them.-------Just not enough to go around.--

13th February 2018, 14:05	#3
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Fair enough, Im happy enough I think its the slave/clutch. I think if the box was low on oil, the problems would be evident regardless of the temperature of the box. Well, thats my hunch anyway.

13th February 2018, 14:22	#5
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	lol... Im not doing any of that! Master, slave, clutch all replaced at the same time.... )))

13th February 2018, 17:19	#7
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Ahh well cheers Brian. But I'm not messing around, dont have the time, patience or energy to faff around with failing ZTs all my life. If a part is on its way to breaking, its getting replaced. Last thing I need is to be stuck in Albania/Ukraine/Norway with a failed clutch. Appreciate the tips though.

14th February 2018, 00:58	#10
T16 I really should get out more....... ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Dundee Posts: 2,877 Thanks: 10 Thanked 331 Times in 213 Posts	Last time I did a clutch it was 60k miles and felt the same as new. Ill stick with what I know... Got a crane which will help doing it alone. Master has too much wear in the eyelet that contacts the pedal stub, so might as well replace the lot for the best piece of mind I'll get driving an old ZT. After that, rear upper arms. sigh