Rear suspension arms and mounting

[Jackstevens98]

Has come up on advisory that my rear upper suspension arms both sides and mountings are corroded but not excessive. Two questions is this something that I could easily fix myself before they get too bad. If not how much would a garage charge parts and labour to replace these

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Jackstevens98

Has come up on advisory that my rear upper suspension arms both sides and mountings are corroded but not excessive. Two questions is this something that I could easily fix myself before they get too bad. If not how much would a garage charge parts and labour to replace these

The parts for both sides will cost circa £250, and they are secured with three bolts, if fitted with a rear anti roll bar, two if not

Unfortunately in each case, I've encountered, the outboard bolt has been seized solid, it is possible with a bit of patience to work these bolts free, however the rose joint bush will require replacement more likely as not.

So back to your question, I suppose the best course of action would be to jack up the car, place it on stands, remove the back wheels and take a good look at the arms, wire brush the loose crusty stuff off, wash any salt deposits from corrosion cells, and treat with waxoil or similar.

Remember though, what may at first sight appear to be relatively minor.........



,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,After a bit of sustained action look quite different



Brian

[mininuts]

Originally Posted by Jackstevens98

Has come up on advisory that my rear upper suspension arms both sides and mountings are corroded but not excessive. Two questions is this something that I could easily fix myself before they get too bad. If not how much would a garage charge parts and labour to replace these

Ive recently replaced both mine along with the rose joint bushes. Quite a straightforward job if you are patient, only problem I had was one of the outer bush bolts was seized solid so, as I was replacing the bushes, I had to use a grinder and cutting disc to aid removal

Mine looked fine from underneath but, like Brian said, jack up, take wheels off and have a good rummage.........I was quite surprised with what I found



Take the advice of those who know on here and you will be fine doing it yourself.
Oh yes, ONLY use good quality hex sockets, NOT the bi-hex ones and plenty of PlusGas

[macafee2]

the arms shown in the pictures already posted are about £120 each.
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...-and-rgg104972

easy to do if, bolt in centre of car not seized nor the one by the axle. do check your suspension springs at the same time as I found one of mine had snapped.

there is info and a how to (i think) on the forum about changing these and also what tools you need.
these are something you can change if you have the right tools and I advise having a torque wrench for doing the bolts back up

macafee2

[mininuts]

A 'how to' by MWMan

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/a...7&d=1505650584

[Vossy]

It does look a daunting job but once you get started its not that bad, I soaked all of the bolts especially the "hidden" one for a few days before trying to remove them, to my surprise they all came out without problem.

[minimutly]

Unless your car has never been in the wet, or salted roads, the chances are they need changing.
I've done two sets, both without the seized bolts and consequent issues noted by others, but that's no guarantee you won't have these issues.
I wouldn't class the job as a simple diy job, sure it doesn't take long, but you are working under a heavy car, with compressed spings, potentially seized fixings, and some of them (the pivot pin) need a specific length socket to remove it.
So, if you have a comprehensive tool set, axle stands, time and experience then its do able, otherwise look for an honest garage or one of the traders on here?

[Andy1983mg]

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I purchased my mg zt cdti 54 plate from dannyboy81 in Sheffield I put faith in the seller and took his word when he said everything was fine I purchased it out of the members cars for sale section and trusted him completely and put my faith in him. he got it Moted on 3rd October in Sheffield and it passed with no advisorys after 3 weeks of owning it the osr wheel is bending inwards and as you can see from the pics this is no way road legal and no way should it ever have passed its test. And after reading the advert again he had changed the rear brake pads a couple of months ago and somehow didn't notice the rusty corroded arms. I feel completely ripped off and the more I look over it the more problems I'm finding.

[clf]

Originally Posted by Andy1983mg

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I purchased my mg zt cdti 54 plate from dannyboy81 in Sheffield I put faith in the seller and took his word when he said everything was fine I purchased it out of the members cars for sale section and trusted him completely and put my faith in him. he got it Moted on 3rd October in Sheffield and it passed with no advisorys after 3 weeks of owning it the osr wheel is bending inwards and as you can see from the pics this is no way road legal and no way should it ever have passed its test. And after reading the advert again he had changed the rear brake pads a couple of months ago and somehow didn't notice the rusty corroded arms. I feel completely ripped off and the more I look over it the more problems I'm finding.

they can be easily missed, you too must have missed the corrosion when you looked it over? It does say in the ad, that the brakes were replaced in January, nearly a year ago(not a couple of months), and doesnt mention him doing it personally, but does mention receipts and mileage suggesting it was entrusted to someone else. At an advertised £750 too, it is a cheap price, so say it cost £500 to sort the suspension, it is still an average priced car.

In the summer last year, mine looked fine, a bit scabby, but solid, as in no cracks. In July this year the cracks were there, with one hiding behind a flaking bit of powdercoating or paint! I did have arms ready though, and didnt really do much to slow down the corrosion when I got the car nearly 4 years ago. Except for a light wire brush and painting on some stonechip paint last year, hoping to get me through, although that probably accelerated it. My plan was to fit the new arms with a refurbed subframe next summer, and hoped to have lasted til then, but wasnt to be.

The thing is, it is a known issue, and not limited to our cars, replacing the arms are to be expected between 10-15 years old. My own car passed at least 4 Northern Irish mots with broken rear springs. Unfortunately some things can be missed, by even the most stringent of examiners.

[Andy1983mg]

The rear pads were changed on 29th September and it was moted 3 days later. I admit I should have checked it over but I put my trust in a forum member I put all my faith in his honesty. I don't see how they could miss the arms of I can see it I'm sure an mot tester should see it. I'm awaiting an appointment at a vosa centre as I'm appealing against the mot