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Old 8th October 2019, 19:46   #61
Arctic
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I need to get this done soon. Can't make my mind up with Meyle or try some of the new DMGRS ones. Garage want £60 to fit whichever I buy, though.
HI Dawn.
Why not try Matt's drop links as he says he will stand by them, get them for the Nano meet and have them fitted there (FOC) that way if they fail you have not payed out to have them fitted Arctic.
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Old 8th October 2019, 20:00   #62
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I can't come to the last nano Steve, I have to go close my caravan for winter. It should be ok until March though as it didn't get a warning. Its the rubbers that are starting to look perished.
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Old 9th October 2019, 00:02   #63
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I need to get this done soon. Can't make my mind up with Meyle or try some of the new DMGRS ones. Garage want £60 to fit whichever I buy, though.
I fitted Meyle HD to my Dad's car all round, and they would be my recommendation to you Dawn

Brian

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Old 9th October 2019, 07:59   #64
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Am I missing something? If 7mm has to be cut off the thread at the top, why isn't the thread made the correct length during manufacture? Do the 75/ZT links have other applications?
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Old 9th October 2019, 16:33   #65
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Am I missing something? If 7mm has to be cut off the thread at the top, why isn't the thread made the correct length during manufacture? Do the 75/ZT links have other applications?
The threads have always been that long, great if you fit them with the spring off, but if you're fitting it with the strut assembled and might want to replace it at some stage then cutting off the excess thread means you can easily tighten or loosen the nut easily. With the thread the original length it can be very difficult as the spring coils get in the way

It's another bit of wonderful Rover design (not)

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Old 16th November 2019, 08:09   #66
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Default Brilliant as usual!!!!!

I love your "How To's" this is another brilliant one which I will follow today

Thanks again
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Old 16th November 2019, 11:57   #67
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I love your "How To's" this is another brilliant one which I will follow today

Thanks again [/QUOTE
]

Hi Vaughan
Thank you that is appreciated.

You may well have completed the job by the time you read this post, when you or members started this job take a little time to clear the muck around the top joint.

1

Remove the bottom joint first.
2

Once the nut as been removed pop the link out of the stabilising bar.
3

You can now have a go at cracking the top nut on the drop link, remember I am using ground down spanners to help get the ring spanner over the thread onto the nut, and an open ended spanner also with it's shoulders ground flat so it fits into the gap if needed.

Use the flat on the link to turn the link rather than trying to undo the nut.
4

Once you have managed to back off the link a little you could use an hacksaw with a new sharp blade in to cut the link, use small controlled movements it only takes about a minutes or two to get half way through.

5

Once half way trough you can then bend the link and it will snap off.
6

7

Do this the other side also it saves taking an age to get the top nut off as it is always rusted onto the thread.

Add the new drop link do the top nut first then the bottom
8

Good luck I hope it all went well for you Arctic.
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http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/meets_2014.html
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Old 16th November 2019, 22:22   #68
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[QUOTE=Arctic;2776124]
Quote:
]

Hi Vaughan
Thank you that is appreciated.



Good luck I hope it all went well for you Arctic.
All went well with your help, I would not have thought of using ground down spanners but it was certainly the way to go, the passenger side was actually on back to front!!! all good now parts supplied by Matt
Thanks again for a great How To

Vaughan
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