Rustproofing???

ADO282 · 26th August 2020, 21:33

Having spent many happy hours welding and general fettling under the 75, I'm almost at the stage where I will be applying some rust preventative to the insides of the sill sections.

It will be applied preferably using a standard schutz gun, as I have a small compressor, I'm not particularly interested in the variants to be found in aerosol cans, although I may consider those a a push.

So I'm looking for some recommendations, I will be applying it through the clip holes of the presently removed chrome sill trims, the grommets at the base of the rear inner wheel arch tub, and through the drain holes in the bottom of the sill.

I had considered also removing the sill tread trims, however the plastic clip receptors are very difficult to get out unscathed, so I may give those a miss.

Chris

bl52krz · 26th August 2020, 21:47

I have used Waxoyle for more years than I can remember. Must be around at least 40 years. I have never used anything else. Just put it in a bucket of water and gently warm it up, not to much, it then goes quite thin, and you can put it in a spray gun if required. Throughly recommend.

ADO282 · 26th August 2020, 22:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl52krz

I have used Waxoyle for more years than I can remember. Must be around at least 40 years. I have never used anything else. Just put it in a bucket of water and gently warm it up, not to much, it then goes quite thin, and you can put it in a spray gun if required. Throughly recommend.

I too have used waxoyle in the past David, however I have found it tends to solidify in contact with the cooler panel rather than "creep" in capillary action into the seams.

Thixotropic solutions are probably more up to date, and would offer better long term protection.........I've been cutting out rot and welding this car weather permitting since the beginning of July, and I have no desire to repeat the process at all.

There are so many complex structures inside the skin of the sill it needs to be seen to be believed !!

The chap at the paint shop I had the base coat mixed only had U Pol aerosol cavity wax, not what I was after really

Sonic ZS · 26th August 2020, 23:26

Hi Christopher, I've been using Dinatrol for a number of years now (I used to use Supertrol, but they went over to only supplying aerosols and like you, I like the pressure obtained from a compressor).

I have always thinned Dinatrol with around 50% white spirit, as this helps it to spray very effectively, leaves a nice even coat (excess will run out the drain holes, so can be collected and reused) and it seeps into spot-welded seams & joints beautifully - and you'll often find that this is where the corrosion actually starts !

It's probably not as cheap as waxoyl, but in my opinion, it's a much better product - no need to warm it, and when thinned & collected, it actually lasts a long time

ADO282 · 27th August 2020, 06:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

Hi Christopher, I've been using Dinatrol for a number of years now (I used to use Supertrol, but they went over to only supplying aerosols and like you, I like the pressure obtained from a compressor).

I have always thinned Dinatrol with around 50% white spirit, as this helps it to spray very effectively, leaves a nice even coat (excess will run out the drain holes, so can be collected and reused) and it seeps into spot-welded seams & joints beautifully - and you'll often find that this is where the corrosion actually starts !

It's probably not as cheap as waxoyl, but in my opinion, it's a much better product - no need to warm it, and when thinned & collected, it actually lasts a long time

There is a bewildering array of Dinatrol stuff Paul, would this be the type you use?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dinitrol-...EAAOSwvbRdtu7g

Or perhaps this type

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DINITROL-...QAAOSwH4Be~7AZ

I definitely appreciate the help

SCP440 · 27th August 2020, 06:49

Bilt Hammer DS for box sections and UB for under body. These more modern products self heal and will creep into cracks and joints. I would recommend two coats of the UB for exposed areas that get a lot of road rash.

The aerosols are large and work very well as they come with long tubes with a good nozzle. You can also buy it in bulk containers if you prefer.

Sonic ZS · 27th August 2020, 16:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADO282

There is a bewildering array of Dinatrol stuff Paul, would this be the type you use?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dinitrol-...EAAOSwvbRdtu7g

Or perhaps this type

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DINITROL-...QAAOSwH4Be~7AZ

I definitely appreciate the help

The one I use is Dinitrol 3125, bought it maybe 10 years ago in a plastic 5 litre container (possibly from Frost Restoration, can't remember ?)

Not sure if it's changed name now though, but it's a fairly thick, very dark brown fluid (looks like creosote !) and is designed as a protectant for inside cavities and box sections where there's no abrasion. It's very 'searching' and leaves a decent waxy film on internal surfaces.

Highly recommended if you intend to use a decent compressor

bl52krz · 27th August 2020, 19:16

You are probably right, I am out of date with the new products that are available. I suppose using the same thing for years, you tend to ‘pass by’ other better items that make the old things redundant really. I’m of the old brigade who used to soak everything in old engine oil. That did well but eventually was deemed unenviromental, a bit like some of the new paints and solvents will be in their turn. They call it progress.

Dominic22 · 27th August 2020, 21:25

Not sure if this is any good for anyone but I have just had my SVR done professionally and this is what he used

After fully cleaning and preparing and fully drying the chassis he used

Dinitrol RC900,
ACF-50,
POR-15,
Dinitrol 1000 cavity wax,
Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Wax and Dinitrol Corroheat.

He had the car for 10 days in total and done properly it seems a hell of a job to me. I am not sure how any place can do the correct job in one day.

ADO282 · 28th August 2020, 07:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dominic22

Not sure if this is any good for anyone but I have just had my SVR done professionally and this is what he used

After fully cleaning and preparing and fully drying the chassis he used

Dinitrol RC900,
ACF-50,
POR-15,
Dinitrol 1000 cavity wax,
Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Wax and Dinitrol Corroheat.

He had the car for 10 days in total and done properly it seems a hell of a job to me. I am not sure how any place can do the correct job in one day.

I fully agree Dominic, I've chosen the Dinitrol 1000 for inside the bonnet doors and boot lid box sections, and the Dinitrol ML3125 for the sills.

As Paul "Sonic" points out, the importance in any cavity wax, is the ability for it to creep in between the panel joints, and there is nothing more disheartening than finding out carefully crafted repairs dissolving at the edges, while the panel is perfect in the middle !!

The weather today is foul, forecast for tomorrow is better, I'm hoping to get the car back on it's wheels soon as it's dragging on a little........

26th August 2020, 21:33	#1
ADO282 Banned ROVER 75 Connoisseur Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: BRACKNELL Posts: 270 Thanks: 125 Thanked 130 Times in 92 Posts	Rustproofing??? Having spent many happy hours welding and general fettling under the 75, I'm almost at the stage where I will be applying some rust preventative to the insides of the sill sections. It will be applied preferably using a standard schutz gun, as I have a small compressor, I'm not particularly interested in the variants to be found in aerosol cans, although I may consider those a a push. So I'm looking for some recommendations, I will be applying it through the clip holes of the presently removed chrome sill trims, the grommets at the base of the rear inner wheel arch tub, and through the drain holes in the bottom of the sill. I had considered also removing the sill tread trims, however the plastic clip receptors are very difficult to get out unscathed, so I may give those a miss. Chris

26th August 2020, 21:47	#2
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,396 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	I have used Waxoyle for more years than I can remember. Must be around at least 40 years. I have never used anything else. Just put it in a bucket of water and gently warm it up, not to much, it then goes quite thin, and you can put it in a spray gun if required. Throughly recommend. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

26th August 2020, 23:26	#4
Sonic ZS Posted a thing or two 75 Conn CDT Tourer, 75 Conn SE V6, 75 Conn V6, 75 Conn CDTi Tourer, ZS 180 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 1,986 Thanks: 1,287 Thanked 963 Times in 534 Posts	Hi Christopher, I've been using Dinatrol for a number of years now (I used to use Supertrol, but they went over to only supplying aerosols and like you, I like the pressure obtained from a compressor). I have always thinned Dinatrol with around 50% white spirit, as this helps it to spray very effectively, leaves a nice even coat (excess will run out the drain holes, so can be collected and reused) and it seeps into spot-welded seams & joints beautifully - and you'll often find that this is where the corrosion actually starts ! It's probably not as cheap as waxoyl, but in my opinion, it's a much better product - no need to warm it, and when thinned & collected, it actually lasts a long time __________________

27th August 2020, 19:16	#8
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,396 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	You are probably right, I am out of date with the new products that are available. I suppose using the same thing for years, you tend to ‘pass by’ other better items that make the old things redundant really. I’m of the old brigade who used to soak everything in old engine oil. That did well but eventually was deemed unenviromental, a bit like some of the new paints and solvents will be in their turn. They call it progress. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

27th August 2020, 06:49	#6
SCP440 I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T 260 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Witney Posts: 2,504 Thanks: 6 Thanked 910 Times in 571 Posts	Bilt Hammer DS for box sections and UB for under body. These more modern products self heal and will creep into cracks and joints. I would recommend two coats of the UB for exposed areas that get a lot of road rash. The aerosols are large and work very well as they come with long tubes with a good nozzle. You can also buy it in bulk containers if you prefer.

27th August 2020, 21:25	#9
Dominic22 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 V8 Plus Others Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Swadlincote Posts: 1,603 Thanks: 18 Thanked 163 Times in 81 Posts	Not sure if this is any good for anyone but I have just had my SVR done professionally and this is what he used After fully cleaning and preparing and fully drying the chassis he used Dinitrol RC900, ACF-50, POR-15, Dinitrol 1000 cavity wax, Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Wax and Dinitrol Corroheat. He had the car for 10 days in total and done properly it seems a hell of a job to me. I am not sure how any place can do the correct job in one day.