How much to fix KV6 inlet? - Page 3

KWIL · 15th March 2018, 13:15

You may find these helpful.

Mgaz · 20th March 2018, 20:22

Well.. The replacement inlet manifold is fitted. along with the improved VIS motors from Stocktake.

Definitely notice a difference in the car now.

I'm not sure I would call it a 'kick' though, as some have described. Not much of one anyway. But there is a clear increase in induction roar when reaching 3k rpm

And the car does seem to be much more keen when pressing on a bit .

I ended up going for the much older manifold, dated 1999. Although the arm seemed a little heavy to move, it did seem a bit more firmer and smoother in its operation.

The other manifold I have as a spare is dated 2008. The arm is lighter to move but it bothered me that it seemed to 'stick' a little at the far reaches of its travel.

Well.. who knows which one was better.. but i've made my choice, and it seems to be working. (unless all i'm benefiting from is the balance flap opening up) But how would I know?

Rich in Vancouver · 28th May 2018, 01:54

This is an interesting discussion.
I have had a rattle from my KV6 for some time. I have two intakes that I have swapped back and forth with no change to the noise so today I removed the cover from the back of the one not currently on the vehicle. Of course the linkage is intact so that may rule out the manifold as the source of the noise.
I did read a post somewhere by a fellow who was going to fix the power valves in the closed position. His reasoning was that he had an automatic gearbox that changed before the point where the power valves kick in. That intrigued me as I am in the same situation with an auto box.
What are your opinions of this mod?

Mgaz · 28th May 2018, 23:03

Surely you want the valves fixed in the 'open' position?

So it can breath?

Interesting thought about the auto box changing before the valves open. Although, surely when you put the throttle to the floor in an auto, the gear box kicks down a gear, the revs go up and the valves would then open?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich in Vancouver

This is an interesting discussion.
I have had a rattle from my KV6 for some time. I have two intakes that I have swapped back and forth with no change to the noise so today I removed the cover from the back of the one not currently on the vehicle. Of course the linkage is intact so that may rule out the manifold as the source of the noise.
I did read a post somewhere by a fellow who was going to fix the power valves in the closed position. His reasoning was that he had an automatic gearbox that changed before the point where the power valves kick in. That intrigued me as I am in the same situation with an auto box.
What are your opinions of this mod?

Rich in Vancouver · 29th May 2018, 00:44

Mgaz, Today on my commute I kept a closer eye on my tach than usual.
I had to floor it 3 times today (more than usual) which took the revs up into VIS territory, (4350+RPM according to the diagram KWIL posted) once going onto the highway and twice while passing other cars. The revs went up to 4500 to 5000 RPM so that debunks the theory that automatic cars can get away with fixed manifold power valves!
I think that I will just screw the proven good manifold back together and use it as it was meant to. I will see if I can hunt down some compressible, fuel proof gasket material to make the manifold panel easily removable for service.

Power Valves Closed

Power Valves Open

ianM · 29th May 2018, 08:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mgaz

Well.. The replacement inlet manifold is fitted. along with the improved VIS motors from Stocktake.

I'm trying to sort an issue with a rattle too - can I ask where you found the replacement manifold from? I always worry I'll buy a replacement only for that to be bost too!

Rich in Vancouver · 29th May 2018, 12:18

That's always the worry buying something like a manifold used. You are never sure if you are getting a good one.
I got mine off e-bay but I would think the forum would be a good place to find one as well.

beavis · 22nd January 2021, 15:00

Hello,

how about opening the inlet manifold, dismount every broken plastic part (the arm), 3d-print it and assemble it back together? In 2021 this should no be a science fiction.
Is the pressure/heat somewhat big inside it? The arm itself seems really simple design and there are very strong plastic materials to print it out of.

I found a second hand inlet manifold (produced in 1999) from an overheated kv6 engine costing 25 euro. It could be a good piece to try to recycle.

Mgaz · 22nd January 2021, 21:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by beavis

Hello,

how about opening the inlet manifold, dismount every broken plastic part (the arm), 3d-print it and assemble it back together? In 2021 this should no be a science fiction.
Is the pressure/heat somewhat big inside it? The arm itself seems really simple design and there are very strong plastic materials to print it out of.

I found a second hand inlet manifold (produced in 1999) from an overheated kv6 engine costing 25 euro. It could be a good piece to try to recycle.

Sounds like a plan.. although If it turned out not to be strong enough and it did brake , I'd be worried about bits of it falling into the engine. So I'd probably not want to be the first volunteer to test it

Mgaz · 22nd January 2021, 21:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich in Vancouver

Power Valves Closed

Power Valves Open

I wonder, has anybody tried running a manifold with the balance valve still in place and working but just the power valves completely removed?

And a remap to suit?

20th March 2018, 20:22	#22
Mgaz Gets stuck in MG ZT190, MG ZS TD, MGF VVC, R200 TD bubble, Austin A35 Join Date: May 2017 Location: shrewsbury Posts: 648 Thanks: 530 Thanked 82 Times in 56 Posts	Well.. The replacement inlet manifold is fitted. along with the improved VIS motors from Stocktake. Definitely notice a difference in the car now. I'm not sure I would call it a 'kick' though, as some have described. Not much of one anyway. But there is a clear increase in induction roar when reaching 3k rpm And the car does seem to be much more keen when pressing on a bit . I ended up going for the much older manifold, dated 1999. Although the arm seemed a little heavy to move, it did seem a bit more firmer and smoother in its operation. The other manifold I have as a spare is dated 2008. The arm is lighter to move but it bothered me that it seemed to 'stick' a little at the far reaches of its travel. Well.. who knows which one was better.. but i've made my choice, and it seems to be working. (unless all i'm benefiting from is the balance flap opening up) But how would I know? __________________ They say you should never meet your Idols. Well.... you know that car you always wanted? https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGx...zZeAsYRU9aZu-A ^Be kind, Subscribe^ (MGR videos )

29th May 2018, 00:44	#25
Rich in Vancouver Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: White Rock, BC on Canada's Pacific Coast Posts: 849 Thanks: 338 Thanked 367 Times in 210 Posts	Mgaz, Today on my commute I kept a closer eye on my tach than usual. I had to floor it 3 times today (more than usual) which took the revs up into VIS territory, (4350+RPM according to the diagram KWIL posted) once going onto the highway and twice while passing other cars. The revs went up to 4500 to 5000 RPM so that debunks the theory that automatic cars can get away with fixed manifold power valves! I think that I will just screw the proven good manifold back together and use it as it was meant to. I will see if I can hunt down some compressible, fuel proof gasket material to make the manifold panel easily removable for service. Power Valves Closed Power Valves Open Last edited by Rich in Vancouver; 29th May 2018 at 02:09..

15th March 2018, 13:15	#21
KWIL Precise Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Fleet Posts: 2,952 Thanks: 630 Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts	You may find these helpful.

28th May 2018, 01:54	#23
Rich in Vancouver Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: White Rock, BC on Canada's Pacific Coast Posts: 849 Thanks: 338 Thanked 367 Times in 210 Posts	This is an interesting discussion. I have had a rattle from my KV6 for some time. I have two intakes that I have swapped back and forth with no change to the noise so today I removed the cover from the back of the one not currently on the vehicle. Of course the linkage is intact so that may rule out the manifold as the source of the noise. I did read a post somewhere by a fellow who was going to fix the power valves in the closed position. His reasoning was that he had an automatic gearbox that changed before the point where the power valves kick in. That intrigued me as I am in the same situation with an auto box. What are your opinions of this mod?

29th May 2018, 12:18	#27
Rich in Vancouver Gets stuck in MG ZT-T Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: White Rock, BC on Canada's Pacific Coast Posts: 849 Thanks: 338 Thanked 367 Times in 210 Posts	That's always the worry buying something like a manifold used. You are never sure if you are getting a good one. I got mine off e-bay but I would think the forum would be a good place to find one as well.

22nd January 2021, 15:00	#28
beavis Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: Pleven Posts: 22 Thanks: 16 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	Hello, how about opening the inlet manifold, dismount every broken plastic part (the arm), 3d-print it and assemble it back together? In 2021 this should no be a science fiction. Is the pressure/heat somewhat big inside it? The arm itself seems really simple design and there are very strong plastic materials to print it out of. I found a second hand inlet manifold (produced in 1999) from an overheated kv6 engine costing 25 euro. It could be a good piece to try to recycle.