|
||
|
24th April 2015, 17:16 | #11 | |
This is my second home
Back in a Rover Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 4,926
Thanks: 131
Thanked 357 Times in 261 Posts
|
Quote:
Just sort of smacks of nastiness to me mate. Stubs |
|
24th April 2015, 17:27 | #12 | |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
|
Quote:
Cillit Bang and a toothbrush Cellulose thinners and a tack cloth Vanish soap bar and nailbrush (as per your suggestion) Isopropanol mentholated spirit and scotchbrite On each and every occasion, the wheel was left to dry naturally prior to application of the paint, and between coats of which at least ten were applied in thin layers to build up the finish. I could go on, but needless to say, thorough surface prep is not the issue. The product itself is not a dye, but a water based paint, a dye penetrates the substrate, this coats the top. This wouldn't be a problem in "low traffic areas" but a steering wheel is not a low traffic area. As an aside, if you clean the finish with anything more aggressive than soapy water, it will wash off. I used the finish following glowing reports from other people, however it simply isn't up to the job if left untreated. Eventually I gave up and bought another wheel, but am willing to experiment with it, as it was given to my father to fit to his car. I will report back on the results of the latest trial, I hope it works, as when first done the wheel looks like new Brian |
|
24th April 2015, 17:32 | #13 |
This is my second home
Jaguar XFR 2011MY Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Harlow
Posts: 6,363
Thanks: 19
Thanked 816 Times in 759 Posts
|
They should always be sealed after anyway as they would have been from new, modern leather is coloured and then sealed it is the only way to protect it! Much like lacquer for paintwork
The prep is important but it's not the only step to take |
24th April 2015, 17:36 | #14 | |
Passed Away
Rover 75 Connie Tourer Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2,582
Thanks: 682
Thanked 979 Times in 612 Posts
|
Quote:
It might be Brian has come on to criticise because he noted the praise was coming from the owner of a Moonstone and we all know his opinion of that colour. |
|
24th April 2015, 17:44 | #15 | |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
|
Quote:
I guarantee it is paint and not dye Stuart is selling, and it does wear off in short order. Nothing to do with the colour of your car, I have approached Stuart on previous occasions to see if a solution to the problem could be sought, but the suggestion the application of beeswax certainly doesn't work either Best of luck Brian |
|
4th May 2015, 22:59 | #16 | |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
|
Quote:
Anyway here are some pictures of my sandstone and walnut wheel which has been painted Smokestone with Stubie's paint This time the painted finish has been sealed with an ultra durable satin finish leather sealant, so we will see if this improves the longevity of the painted finish. It may be many things, but a dye is not one of them.... If this fails, I will do what I should have done in the first place, and have the wheel retrimmed professionally. For anyone doubting what I am pointing out here, spray a little Cilit Bang on your finger tip, and rub it on an inconspicuous area of trim that has been painted with Stubies "dye" Pound to a pinch of salt says you will end up with a fingertip that matches your trim Brian |
|
5th May 2015, 08:00 | #17 |
Passed Away
Rover 75 Saloon CDti Se A Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North London
Posts: 2,500
Thanks: 5
Thanked 401 Times in 287 Posts
|
I too have usedvthe dye furnished by stubie an it works well but as Brian says over time it does wear off and need touching up, I think the issue is more about the leather not absorbing the dye but forming a layer, so Brian's solution of a sealant is a good one in my humble opinion. We tend to forget its the acid in our skin that removes the original dye in first place maybe you would share your sealant info with stubie so we all may benefit from your combined knowledge
|
5th May 2015, 08:06 | #18 | |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
|
Quote:
I found, once one coat has been applied, it is not possible to add subsequent coats, as the sealer "beads" and certainly doesn't penetrate. In addition, I attempted to remove the finish with Cillit Bang, a product that would wash off Stubie's paint instantly, and nothing Hopefully this will be the answer, but again time will only tell. Brian |
|
5th May 2015, 10:04 | #19 |
Passed Away
Rover 75 Saloon CDti Se A Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North London
Posts: 2,500
Thanks: 5
Thanked 401 Times in 287 Posts
|
Friend told me dying takes place during or just after tanning what we think of Is chroming the leather and is a basically a layer on surface of completed skin, if your sealant proves durable we will only need a small bottle of it to complete repairs, wonders if it would be as durable on the leather of the seats as well. Just shows two minds are often better than one! Well done to both of you
|
5th May 2015, 21:13 | #20 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Classic SE 2.0V6 Auto Moonstone Green Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Roscommon
Posts: 839
Thanks: 315
Thanked 46 Times in 34 Posts
|
I've been eMailing a Company about Sandstone Dye and they've just confirmed that they'll send me a sample. Will post up my comments when I try it out.
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
|
|