Newbie "Clutch bleeding" questions

[T-Cut]

The general idea is to force fluid one way only from master to slave and out the bleed nipple. You don't want any fluid moving back the other way at any time or any air in the system may not be expelled. The best way to ensure that is to have a one way valve on short piece of rubber tubing attached to the bleed nipple. Or just submerge the end of the tubing in a jar of fluid. A dodge often used by garages is to use a finger on the bleed nipple as a valve, while an assistant presses down the pedal. I've also used a tyre valve pushed into the end of a short rubber tube. Another way is to make a Bunsen valve at the end of the tubing. I always found this the best way for one man bleeding.
Bunsen valve: http://www.preproom.org/workshop/ws.aspx?wsID=1030
Bung the tube end with anything that fits tightly, a small bolt, a bit of wooden dowel, etc. Cut the short slit with a razor blade.

After each pedel press the valve closes, so as the pedal returns fluid doesn't get drawn backwards. There may be a valve to avoid that within the master cylinder, but it's good practice to be sure. The important thing is to keep a close check that the master reservoir doesn't empty or you're back to square one. Top it up after a couple of pumps.

Pressure or vacuum bleeder gadgets avoid the pedalling altogether.

TC

[Supervinnie40]

I have a piece of tubing that I can fit over the nipple, so I can use a little jar with dot-4 fluid and submerge the end of that tube in the jar.
Would that mean I only need to pump the pedal a few times, until there is no air or bubbles coming out of it? (after I filled it up with fluid).

[T-Cut]

Draper:https://www.drapertools.com/product/...e-Bleeding-Kit

A small tube with a valve in the end. Who'd have thought!

TC

[Supervinnie40]

So.... from reading the replies here and on internet, I have been thinking the following.
Put a tube over the bleed nipple, and put the end in a bowl with dot4. Then just start pumping the pedal.
The only question in this setup would be if a one-way valve is needed. I could obviously just put my finger on the end. Air would push my finger away, but nothing would go back in.

I know there are kits, but I'm not really in a position to spent much more on this at the moment. I'm also in a hurry, because the car needs to be 100% before monday. (fingers crossed my order will come in time....)

[roverbarmy]

Just be careful not to empty the master cylinder or you will get more air in!

[T-Cut]

A Bunsen valve - see Post 11.

I've used it for brake bleeding for fifty years.

TC

[Supervinnie40]

Thanks for the tips. I did forget to mention that the master cylinder needs to be topped up.

I think the valve thing is gonna be very easy to use. I'm gonna update the opening post.

[drewbie]

One tip you may find useful using this technique is that with the bleed nipple open the pedal will push to the floor and stay there, allowing you to close the nipple then re lift the pedal. Do this three times before refilling reservoir.

[Avulon]

Originally Posted by drewbie

Invest in a pressure bleed kit like Eezi Bleed, does a much better job. Loose the black condom and replace with an o ring.

Hands up everyone who knows why the 'black condom' is in there and what it's function is?

[Supervinnie40]

Originally Posted by Avulon

Hands up everyone who knows why the 'black condom' is in there and what it's function is?

I have been told it is there to prevent "overfilling"

Thanks for the tip Drewbie