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Old 10th June 2020, 19:15   #91
Supervinnie40
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No problem at all. Better check twice then once to little.

A picture might clear things up:
https://scontent-amt2-1.xx.fbcdn.net...c1&oe=5F05187A

I can see where the confusion comes from. The brown has a green stripe which I hadn't noticed before. If you look at the photo, and look in the background, there seems to be a green line over the brown wire.


Edit: going back out to double check the photo I took a few days ago, I can see why this seemed odd to you. On the front of the connector, where it slides over the metal pins from the wiper unit, there are very tiny numbers apparantely. In this case, Black is nr 1 and brown is number 4. It appears I wrote them down upside down.
I hope this didn't effect the readings and conclusion we have done a few pages back?

It should've been:

4 = brown (thin)
3 = red/green (thick)
2 = green/blue (thick)
1 = black (thick)

4 = 00.0 ohm
3 = 00.6 ohm
2 = 00.0 ohm
1 = 00.5 ohm
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Last edited by Supervinnie40; 10th June 2020 at 19:26..
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Old 10th June 2020, 19:47   #92
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Terminals numbered back to front. See attached.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Wipers.pdf (427.5 KB, 12 views)
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Last edited by Atlan; 10th June 2020 at 20:42.. Reason: Colour Pdf.
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Old 10th June 2020, 19:54   #93
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Thank you.

If it helps, i dont have a rain sensor.
I also noticed how my brown/green wire is shown in the diagram green with a very thin edge of brown.

What DOESN'T help... is that the numbers in this diagram appear to be different then the numbers printed in the plastic connector. This diagram shows "green/brown" as number 1, with black as number 4 (If I read things correctly).

So to clear some stuff up, here are 2 photo's.



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Last edited by Supervinnie40; 11th June 2020 at 04:35..
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Old 11th June 2020, 05:30   #94
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I just had a brainfart, so I thought I'd try something: connect the battery, and then connect the 4 wires from the black wiper motor one-by-one.

At first, I connected 1 wire, see what it does and then disconnect that one wire, on to the next.
The result was that none of the wires did anything. Slightly logical because there was no earth, so the electricity couldn't flow. The black wire is the earth, and without that one, nothing does anything. Still worth a shot.

So, I connected the earth, and then retried the other 3 wires one-by-one. Connect it, see what it does en disconnect it, onto the next.

Brown/green (thin) wire: this makes the system wake up (amp go up) and after a few minutes it drops to "rest" and ends up at 0.07 amps.

Red/green (thick) wire: this makes the system wake up (amp go up) and after a few minutes it drops to "rest" and ends up at 0.03 amps.

Blue/green (thick) wire: doesn't do anything. Amps where at 0.03, and connecting this wire to the correct pin, doesn't do anything.

If I connect every wire, except for the black (earth), then nothing happens. Amps stay still at 0.03 amps.

I'm inclined to think that the "problem" is with the brown/green wire? According to Atlan's diagram, it's connected with a block called "header (K109)" and then with the BCU and the rain sensor, except I don't have a rain sensor.
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Old 11th June 2020, 07:19   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
... the numbers in this diagram appear to be different then the numbers printed in the plastic connector ... here are 2 photos.
Your photos seem to be reversed (a mirror image) Vinnie. The diagram matches my car. Please check yours.
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Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
I'm inclined to think that the "problem" is with the brown/green wire? According to Atlan's diagram, it's connected with a block called "header (K109)" and then with the BCU and the rain sensor, except I don't have a rain sensor.
The parking switch sends an earth connection to the BCU via the NLG (brown/light green) wire. You've demonstrated that it's working as it provokes a response from the BCU.

The "headers" are just a means of connecting several wires to each other. Ignore the rain sensor wiring.

What we still don't know is whether or not your 70mA current consumption is abnormal.

Simon
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Last edited by SD1too; 11th June 2020 at 13:50.. Reason: Discovery of reversed photographs
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Old 11th June 2020, 07:31   #96
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I have posted in 2 different Rover groups with the request if others are willing to do some readings on their car. Thus far nobody. One friendly gentleman seems to be fairly electrical minded, and is asking me several questions on what we've testen and is trying to give advice. I appreciate that, but it would also be helpful if he went out and did some readings (that kinda sounds unappreciative, but I don't mean it that way).
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Old 11th June 2020, 09:57   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
I have posted in 2 different Rover groups with the request if others are willing to do some readings on their car. Thus far nobody. One friendly gentleman seems to be fairly electrical minded, and is asking me several questions on what we've testen and is trying to give advice. I appreciate that, but it would also be helpful if he went out and did some readings (that kinda sounds unappreciative, but I don't mean it that way).
How far are you from MG Workshop Holland? I know them, they are great people, maybe they could do the testing for you?
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Old 11th June 2020, 09:58   #98
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Default Actual current readings

OK Vinnie I've just connected my multimeter into my battery circuit. I can only use the 10 amp range which gives me a display of two decimal places.

On connection the car's system "woke up". The current varied initially but settled at 2.5 amps.

It then reduced to a stable 2.12 amps after about a minute.

After about a further minute or so it fell to 0.09 amps. This coincided with the video module (I have highline sat. nav.) fan switching off. I waited for a good few minutes longer and the current remained stable at 0.09 amps.

MG Rover says that after 20 minutes I should expect half this current. I'll return then to take another reading.

Simon
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Old 11th June 2020, 10:58   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colintf View Post
How far are you from MG Workshop Holland? I know them, they are great people, maybe they could do the testing for you?
That would be about 114km (about 71 miles). Have to admit, I've never heard of them before?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
OK Vinnie I've just connected my multimeter into my battery circuit. I can only use the 10 amp range which gives me a display of two decimal places.

On connection the car's system "woke up". The current varied initially but settled at 2.5 amps.

It then reduced to a stable 2.12 amps after about a minute.

After about a further minute or so it fell to 0.09 amps. This coincided with the video module (I have highline sat. nav.) fan switching off. I waited for a good few minutes longer and the current remained stable at 0.09 amps.

MG Rover says that after 20 minutes I should expect half this current. I'll return then to take another reading.

Simon
Thanks for your effort Simon.
Mine does a very similar thing as yours does (apart from the sat nav thing). And mine stays at 0.07. If I wait long enough (about an hour), it goes down a lot (0.01) but jumps up and down all the time. It can go from 0.01 to 0.1 and back to 0.01 within a second. It's not always up to 0.1, it seems to give total random numbers.
I'll make a video of both situations and put it on Youtube. Maybe that'll help.
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Old 11th June 2020, 11:26   #100
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQlrCPAnqwY

The first minute orso, it says 0.37, after that it goes to 0.09, and then it stays at 0.07.
I'm waiting for a longer time show what it does after an hour orso.
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