Buying a TF

Mogodon · 28th January 2021, 10:02

My daughter has expressed an interest in joining the MGR fold and said she fancies an MG TF.

Now I know nothing about TF'S or K series engines apart from HGF with them.

Any buying tips greatly appreciated as I'm sure some on here own or deal with them.

Thanks.

trikey · 28th January 2021, 10:15

Tf owners will be along to give a better insight, but go for one that has good underbody rust treatment as they are not as good as the 75 as regards to worm. Make sure the coolant pipes have been changed for the stainless version.

colintf · 28th January 2021, 10:31

in addition to the above,
whatever you buy, I would then recommend having Nick at Austin Garages cast his eye over it (he maintain all our TF's and Zeds).

TF's are very fussy over tyres (only a few are approved and recommended) and tyre pressures.

This time of year, I would really recommend Winter Tyres on a TF, but a soft top (instead of a hardtop) is useable all year around.

This time of year if stored outside, condensation can form inside the hood and also inside the boot.

If you can find a "05" Model Year TF then that is what I would go for, or an 85th Anny TF.

The Midlands region of the MGCC's F Register is very active (forum can be found via google and the Register also has an active FB page.)

Cambelt change is also key, and time based, not miles (every 4 years from memory on our TF's)

our's have all been to Krown for their treatment (also up in the midlands)

Parts supply is generally good. Martin Smith MG Spares down in Somerset saved just about all of the Longbridge stock, so if he doesn't have it then you'll probably struggle to find it!

Some of the current MG Dealers are also very good with F/TF like Summit at Dudely for example.

hope that helps

Olde faithful · 28th January 2021, 20:08

I have a 2005 05 MGTF no issues great car now on 115000 miles 1.8 135 engine power in sonic blue.

i have had zero issues had it four years i use MG obsession in Burton on trent ruddy good prices too for servicing etc. He has around 30 MGTF Cars on the go at any one time and also he does MGZS cars and ZTs.

2005 05 are the best year to get from or 2006. I hope that helps

skellum · 28th January 2021, 22:05

They're great fun. I seem to have 3 now, however that happened.

They do need work to keep them in good fettle. Vigilance of coolant levels and oil condition is needed. Because of their age now most MOTs throw up something needing attention. I run mine year round, and snow and ice make for some very interesting days out.

Prices are creeping up now, as too many have been broken. Buy on condition, and I'll disagree slightly with the suggestion that buying a late car is best. Some serious cost cutting went on before MGR failed. My 02 plate car has been less trouble than her 54 plate sister with the Oval Pektron key fob
Get a 135- it makes abetter noise than the 115 and is easier to fettle than the 160 (I have 115, 135 and 160).

As said, parts are cheap, with good supply.
Every drive is an occasion. Get one!

Sonic ZS · 31st January 2021, 17:57

Firstly, it is worth remembering that although the F/TF was built by MG Rover and had a very similar price tag to a 75, build quality and 'structural robustness' are at Metro levels.

The bodyshells are much thinner steel (to save weight) and underbody protection of suspension, subframes, pipework, etc. really was minimal.

We have a TF 160 which has had lots of work done by myself to make it a reliable, useable car. The following are common problems to look out for:

Later cars used the Pektron electronic system, which controls things like central locking, hazards, alarm, intermittant wipe, etc. and is prone to failure (although can be repaired). The earlier Lucas system has proved more reliable.

Underbody coolant pipes are prone to rot due to their vulnerable position & minimal protection but stainless replacements are available. The same can affect the engine steel coolant pipe (if antifreeze has not been used), again stainless replacements are a fit & forget item. The metal coolant pipes in the cabin can leak unseen under the carpet, giving an annoying and difficult to find drop in the coolant level.

The side air intakes allow rainwater & road spray to enter the quarter panels, this then rots through at the back end of the sills. To my knowledge, repair panels are not available and can be complicated to fabricate.

Front and rear subframes, cross braces, mounting brackets and front suspension arms all had a minimal coat of matt black from the factory, and rust quickly. You'll be hard pressed to find any F/TF which doesn't mention underbody corrosion on the MOT history.

Rear brake calipers have the handbrake incorporated and the efficiency decreases over time as the pistons rust and the linkages seize. Repair kits with new pistons are available and fix the problem, giving good brakes and a fully operational handbrake again, or alternatively just bolt on a complete new caliper.

Hoods will often have small holes where they crease when folded. Rear plastic screens can go 'milky', polishing helps or can be replaced by a decent auto trimmer.

Used hardtops are pretty cheap nowadays, but are big, bulky & awkward to store when not in use throughout the summer.

Most cars will leak somewhere around the doors or window rubbers (they did from new

) but I've never actually seen one with rusty floorpans. Worth checking under the carpets to see if a prospective purchase is wet here. The carpets also pull away at the bottom of the A-pillar, as they were cut only just large enough when new and tend to move as the underfelt compresses with age.

If I think of anything else, I'll let you know. Overall, get a good one (or a not-so-good and spend some money on it) and you'll have a great little fun car that'll put a big smile on your face on a summers day ! And a decent VVC will embarrass many more powerful cars

28th January 2021, 10:02	#1
Mogodon Gets stuck in MG ZT 135+ Diesel Auto Mk2. Nisan Micra 1.4 SVE Auto. Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Wellingborough, Northamptonshire. Posts: 834 Thanks: 196 Thanked 198 Times in 84 Posts	Buying a TF My daughter has expressed an interest in joining the MGR fold and said she fancies an MG TF. Now I know nothing about TF'S or K series engines apart from HGF with them. Any buying tips greatly appreciated as I'm sure some on here own or deal with them. Thanks. __________________ Plenum spyhole mod. Powerflow backbox. 11 spoke alloys repainted Black Sparkle. Black Expansion tank. Drivers side cup holder. PPD carpeted heater box sides. Illuminated sun visors, PPD Door reflectors. PPD Seatbelt lower mount bolt covers. PPD Drivers grab handle. Cubby rechargeable torch and power socket. FBH retro-fitted. FBH engine pre-heater mod done. Electric rear Sunblind. Tow bar. Flip key. MGR towing mirrors and Saloon roof bars. Hand Built in Birmingham

28th January 2021, 10:15	#2
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,767 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	Tf owners will be along to give a better insight, but go for one that has good underbody rust treatment as they are not as good as the 75 as regards to worm. Make sure the coolant pipes have been changed for the stainless version. __________________ Lest we forget..

28th January 2021, 10:31	#3
colintf Posted a thing or two ZT260SE TF160 ZT135+ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Bristol / Cornwall Posts: 1,029 Thanks: 145 Thanked 72 Times in 64 Posts	in addition to the above, whatever you buy, I would then recommend having Nick at Austin Garages cast his eye over it (he maintain all our TF's and Zeds). TF's are very fussy over tyres (only a few are approved and recommended) and tyre pressures. This time of year, I would really recommend Winter Tyres on a TF, but a soft top (instead of a hardtop) is useable all year around. This time of year if stored outside, condensation can form inside the hood and also inside the boot. If you can find a "05" Model Year TF then that is what I would go for, or an 85th Anny TF. The Midlands region of the MGCC's F Register is very active (forum can be found via google and the Register also has an active FB page.) Cambelt change is also key, and time based, not miles (every 4 years from memory on our TF's) our's have all been to Krown for their treatment (also up in the midlands) Parts supply is generally good. Martin Smith MG Spares down in Somerset saved just about all of the Longbridge stock, so if he doesn't have it then you'll probably struggle to find it! Some of the current MG Dealers are also very good with F/TF like Summit at Dudely for example. hope that helps __________________ colintf Colin Murrell MGF Register Regional Rep for Devon & Cornwall and Cotswold Regions MGCC Z Register Rep for V8 ZT / ZTT's http://www.two-sixties.com/main.htm http://www.mgfregister.org/ Last edited by colintf; 28th January 2021 at 10:34..

31st January 2021, 17:57	#6
Sonic ZS Posted a thing or two 75 Conn CDT Tourer, 75 Conn SE V6, 75 Conn V6, 75 Conn CDTi Tourer, ZS 180 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Devon Posts: 1,986 Thanks: 1,287 Thanked 963 Times in 534 Posts	Firstly, it is worth remembering that although the F/TF was built by MG Rover and had a very similar price tag to a 75, build quality and 'structural robustness' are at Metro levels. The bodyshells are much thinner steel (to save weight) and underbody protection of suspension, subframes, pipework, etc. really was minimal. We have a TF 160 which has had lots of work done by myself to make it a reliable, useable car. The following are common problems to look out for: Later cars used the Pektron electronic system, which controls things like central locking, hazards, alarm, intermittant wipe, etc. and is prone to failure (although can be repaired). The earlier Lucas system has proved more reliable. Underbody coolant pipes are prone to rot due to their vulnerable position & minimal protection but stainless replacements are available. The same can affect the engine steel coolant pipe (if antifreeze has not been used), again stainless replacements are a fit & forget item. The metal coolant pipes in the cabin can leak unseen under the carpet, giving an annoying and difficult to find drop in the coolant level. The side air intakes allow rainwater & road spray to enter the quarter panels, this then rots through at the back end of the sills. To my knowledge, repair panels are not available and can be complicated to fabricate. Front and rear subframes, cross braces, mounting brackets and front suspension arms all had a minimal coat of matt black from the factory, and rust quickly. You'll be hard pressed to find any F/TF which doesn't mention underbody corrosion on the MOT history. Rear brake calipers have the handbrake incorporated and the efficiency decreases over time as the pistons rust and the linkages seize. Repair kits with new pistons are available and fix the problem, giving good brakes and a fully operational handbrake again, or alternatively just bolt on a complete new caliper. Hoods will often have small holes where they crease when folded. Rear plastic screens can go 'milky', polishing helps or can be replaced by a decent auto trimmer. Used hardtops are pretty cheap nowadays, but are big, bulky & awkward to store when not in use throughout the summer. Most cars will leak somewhere around the doors or window rubbers (they did from new ) but I've never actually seen one with rusty floorpans. Worth checking under the carpets to see if a prospective purchase is wet here. The carpets also pull away at the bottom of the A-pillar, as they were cut only just large enough when new and tend to move as the underfelt compresses with age. If I think of anything else, I'll let you know. Overall, get a good one (or a not-so-good and spend some money on it) and you'll have a great little fun car that'll put a big smile on your face on a summers day ! And a decent VVC will embarrass many more powerful cars __________________

28th January 2021, 20:08	#4
Olde faithful Loves to post ROVER 75 TOURER Join Date: May 2017 Location: BIRMINGHAM GB Posts: 355 Thanks: 27 Thanked 268 Times in 102 Posts	I have a 2005 05 MGTF no issues great car now on 115000 miles 1.8 135 engine power in sonic blue. i have had zero issues had it four years i use MG obsession in Burton on trent ruddy good prices too for servicing etc. He has around 30 MGTF Cars on the go at any one time and also he does MGZS cars and ZTs. 2005 05 are the best year to get from or 2006. I hope that helps

28th January 2021, 22:05	#5
skellum Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Stornoway Posts: 115 Thanks: 17 Thanked 41 Times in 27 Posts	They're great fun. I seem to have 3 now, however that happened. They do need work to keep them in good fettle. Vigilance of coolant levels and oil condition is needed. Because of their age now most MOTs throw up something needing attention. I run mine year round, and snow and ice make for some very interesting days out. Prices are creeping up now, as too many have been broken. Buy on condition, and I'll disagree slightly with the suggestion that buying a late car is best. Some serious cost cutting went on before MGR failed. My 02 plate car has been less trouble than her 54 plate sister with the Oval Pektron key fob Get a 135- it makes abetter noise than the 115 and is easier to fettle than the 160 (I have 115, 135 and 160). As said, parts are cheap, with good supply. Every drive is an occasion. Get one!