Coolant MIN to MAX - how much? - Page 2

drewbie · 19th March 2011, 15:36

The coolant level will always rise as it gets hot, so the true level can only be taken when cold. So you are probably losing coolant whilst driving when the system is pressurized and this is not obvious until cooled.

pab · 19th March 2011, 15:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by drewbie

The coolant level will always rise as it gets hot, so the true level can only be taken when cold. So you are probably losing coolant whilst driving when the system is pressurized and this is not obvious until cooled.

good point..

always check the coolant level with a stone cold engine and maintain the max mark tab viewed inside the tank,fill above the max mark and it will be thrown out of the cap.

it's a good idea to change the cap as procedure,for little expense.

celicaman · 19th March 2011, 16:03

I can vouch for coolant being thrown out if overfilled, had mine flushed and vacuum filled and Gerry Tee fitted, picked it up from garage and when I got home (7 mile run) thought I`d have a look at my shiny GT there was coolant splashed over the air box and calcified (spelling?) coolant on top of the radiator, when cool I checked and even after the stuff thrown out it was still 2cm over max, god knows what they used as a guide to set the level.

COLVERT · 19th March 2011, 19:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by celicaman

I can vouch for coolant being thrown out if overfilled, had mine flushed and vacuum filled and Gerry Tee fitted, picked it up from garage and when I got home (7 mile run) thought I`d have a look at my shiny GT there was coolant splashed over the air box and calcified (spelling?) coolant on top of the radiator, when cool I checked and even after the stuff thrown out it was still 2cm over max, god knows what they used as a guide to set the level.

I've not had to put any coolant in my diesel for the four years that I have owned it.
When checked with the engine cold it has remained at 3cm above the max mark all of this time.

Colvert.

suffolk boy · 19th March 2011, 20:07

same here

greendriver · 19th March 2011, 21:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Cut

In a 1.8T, that's a significant loss and therefore a significant risk. The primary cause of HGF in these engines (or any other engine) is loss of coolant leading to excessive overheat. The 1.8 cooling system is well known for leaks and all are identified in the forum discussions. You may even find a list of them if you do a search.

TC

spent all evening looking at coolant loss discussions. need to find out where these engine items are....or get a haynes..

SD1too · 20th March 2011, 08:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by greendriver

... it only seems to lose coolant after a run, as it cools over the following 24 hrs.

Andrew,

As your car will be stationary during this time, try to find out from where the coolant is escaping. Or are you basing this on an observation of the level dropping in the expansion tank?

Also, as Pab says, ensure that you do not exceed the Max mark otherwise coolant may well be ejected.

Simon.

greendriver · 20th March 2011, 08:57

Hi Simon

fitted some replacement rings to the tank cap this morning. One had been missing. This has not cured the fault but needed doing anyway. Topped up with 50/50 coolant/tap water.

Within a few minutes, occasional drip started by the drivers front wheel. Could this be the water pump, which I am having replaced with the cambelt on Thursday? I have ordered the following parts for the inlet manifold (hope it's the right one!) and the belt etc:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

The hoses seem ok but I don't trust myself to take anything apart...

pab · 20th March 2011, 09:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by greendriver

Hi Simon

fitted some replacement rings to the tank cap this morning. One had been missing. This has not cured the fault but needed doing anyway. Topped up with 50/50 coolant/tap water.

Within a few minutes, occasional drip started by the drivers front wheel. Could this be the water pump, which I am having replaced with the cambelt on Thursday? I have ordered the following parts for the inlet manifold (hope it's the right one!) and the belt etc:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

The hoses seem ok but I don't trust myself to take anything apart...

this is the area of the water pump,have you noticed any pink residue on the power steering reservoir where the coolant has been flicked up by the drive belt?

water pumps on this engine do seem to fail rather quickly,see if you can find the genuine article.

greendriver · 20th March 2011, 09:20

had a quick look. I don't think manifold gasket is to blame, the drip is further forward and lower down, but I don't have the space to get underneath.

The water pump is unipart

Thanks for your hints, by the way, it all helps. At this rate I wont have to identify the bits as "that big metal thing with pipes coming out of it behind the large flat thing that looks like it's been pulled out of a beehive...."ect.

There is a growing wet patch on my road...

19th March 2011, 20:07	#15
suffolk boy This is my second home fiat panda Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: haverhill Posts: 6,720 Thanks: 96 Thanked 586 Times in 526 Posts	same here __________________ fiat panda 1.2 eco

19th March 2011, 15:36	#11
drewbie Loves to post Rover 75 Club SE 1.8T 03 plate. Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Tenterden Posts: 277 Thanks: 28 Thanked 41 Times in 37 Posts	The coolant level will always rise as it gets hot, so the true level can only be taken when cold. So you are probably losing coolant whilst driving when the system is pressurized and this is not obvious until cooled.

19th March 2011, 16:03	#13
celicaman Loves to post Rover 75 Contemporary SE 1.8T Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Newton-Le-Willows Posts: 285 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I can vouch for coolant being thrown out if overfilled, had mine flushed and vacuum filled and Gerry Tee fitted, picked it up from garage and when I got home (7 mile run) thought I`d have a look at my shiny GT there was coolant splashed over the air box and calcified (spelling?) coolant on top of the radiator, when cool I checked and even after the stuff thrown out it was still 2cm over max, god knows what they used as a guide to set the level.

20th March 2011, 08:57	#18
greendriver This is my second home MG ZTT 180 in Poseidon Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Croydon Posts: 3,745 Thanks: 44 Thanked 86 Times in 75 Posts	Hi Simon fitted some replacement rings to the tank cap this morning. One had been missing. This has not cured the fault but needed doing anyway. Topped up with 50/50 coolant/tap water. Within a few minutes, occasional drip started by the drivers front wheel. Could this be the water pump, which I am having replaced with the cambelt on Thursday? I have ordered the following parts for the inlet manifold (hope it's the right one!) and the belt etc: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT The hoses seem ok but I don't trust myself to take anything apart...

20th March 2011, 09:20	#20
greendriver This is my second home MG ZTT 180 in Poseidon Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Croydon Posts: 3,745 Thanks: 44 Thanked 86 Times in 75 Posts	had a quick look. I don't think manifold gasket is to blame, the drip is further forward and lower down, but I don't have the space to get underneath. The water pump is unipart Thanks for your hints, by the way, it all helps. At this rate I wont have to identify the bits as "that big metal thing with pipes coming out of it behind the large flat thing that looks like it's been pulled out of a beehive...."ect. There is a growing wet patch on my road...