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Old 29th August 2020, 19:35   #11
coolguy
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I'm glad I'm not the only one that is getting more and more frustrated with poor quality replacements. Many are basically expensive landfill. It's really not on. The trouble is most of us don't return items so there is no 'incentive' for manufacturers/suppliers to supply decent quality items anymore. Quick sale, quick buck. [/QUOTE]

This problem is rife throughout most makes I am afraid. Even Jaguar parts supplied by specialists who only deal in Jaguars are of poor quality or don't even fit. Believe me, I know from experience.
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Old 29th August 2020, 19:38   #12
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Use the genuine landrover one. That will be genuine.i bought three before i took the plunge.no problems since
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Old 29th August 2020, 19:55   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Typhoon190 View Post
I'm glad I'm not the only one that is getting more and more frustrated with poor quality replacements.
As I said Ben, your car's symptoms are more indicative of the aftermath of K-Seal than poor quality parts.

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Originally Posted by ADO282 View Post
I'm considering the Kaiser metal thermostat as a permanent fix ... the replacement "upgraded" item from Rimmer Bros lasted about six weeks and the straight section split.
Hi Christopher,

Like everyone else, I have had leaks in the 'V' and have diligently carried out experiments and I now have a better understanding of what's happening.

FIrst of all, the straight pipe. Mine is the original, now 21 years old and it's never given trouble. There is no need to replace this. If your Rimmer item split then I'd say that you are correct to conclude that it was defective.

The Kaiser metal parts are successful due to their rigidity. I have discovered that the purpose of the serrated 'herbie' clips on the straight pipe is to provide the same rigidity for the plastic assembly. Unfortunately these are often not positioned properly after service. The result is that the assembly moves and the thermostat 'O' ring flattens and begins to leak.
The Chinese modified the thermostat housing by adding three supporting legs. These help with rigidity so if you can locate this improved housing, buy one without delay!
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Originally Posted by ADO282 View Post
It is very telling that the original items lasted for thirteen years, and the replacements less than two!
My research has shown that this is not because the replacement parts are inferior. It's because the serrated 'herbie' clips haven't been positioned fully outwards which creates the necessary rigidity in the assembly. This is not the fault of whoever did the work. There is no clear guidance in any of the workshop manuals available including RAVE.

I hope that this is of interest.

Simon
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Old 30th August 2020, 15:20   #14
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I can't be 100% certain. The only way I could I guess would be to swap over the thermostats.
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Old 1st September 2020, 22:39   #15
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I totally sympathise with anybody gifted with the task of replacing a KV6 thermostat.Simply put "What a rubbish design and material" The designer of this must have either been on serious drugs, or tasked with creating one of the most stupid designs gifted to an engine.
I have been gifted with 2 to do so far, and happily they went ok-ish.
The first went to plan and drove away happily with no issues.
The second one needed an bit more fettling, both kits were procured from X-Part dealer in Sandy, and were mostly up to a good standard. Be warned there is a lack of washer for the temperature sensor, so worth considering sourcing a new one as a seperate entity. The second one had a very small leak from the block port side, this had been cleaned to a polished state prior to fitting, this may have been a contribution to the coolant leak out and contraction of air during cooling down, in turn causing pressure in the cooling system making temperatures vary considerably. The cure was to remove the whole lot again, and re-fit using limited amounts of ptfe tape and a very small trace of sealanton to the seals. This fortunately worked very well with no ill effects whatsoever.
The cooling system behaved perfectly from then on, and with all 190 engines that are fit and healthy- put a smile on my face every time it went out.
I also agree that there seems to be a huge array of really poor quality parts on the market now, and tempting to save the wallet from suicide, but simply dont do it as it is likely to bite you back !
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Old 2nd September 2020, 09:21   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerHeinz57 View Post
... "What a rubbish design and material" The designer of this must have either been on serious drugs, or tasked with creating one of the most stupid designs gifted to an engine.
Hi John,

I believe that the choice of plastic was to minimise weight (in common with the inlet manifold chamber) which isn't unusual.

I'm becoming increasingly convinced that the design is fine so long as the "herbie" clips on the straight pipe are positioned correctly. The criticism I have is that neither RAVE nor Haynes stresses the importance of this. As Christopher has pointed out, the factory assembly typically lasts thirteen years which reinforces this theory.

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Old 2nd September 2020, 17:13   #17
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My straight pipe has the clips positioned at the outer ends, and has been that way since the premature failure of the straight pipe that came as part of the original kit.


In line with advice gleaned from reading here, the the O rings were lubricated with Molycote 55 and the ratchet clips secured against the block housing and thermostat ends of the straight pipe respectively.


I'm not convinced that the leak isn't originating where the two halves of the thermostat housing are welded together upon cooling down, but there are definite signs of pinkish residue within the vee.


It's not a job I enjoy undertaking, however it is extremely disheartening that despite your best efforts, the leaks persist.
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Old 2nd September 2020, 19:40   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADO282 View Post
My straight pipe has the clips positioned at the outer ends, and has been that way since the premature failure of the straight pipe that came as part of the original kit.
Hi Christopher,

I've just been reviewing your earlier post to try to understand your situation. You said that 18 months ago you fitted an "upgraded" straight pipe supplied from Rimmer's which split. It was replaced under warranty with an identical part and that you now have antifreeze residue in the 'V'.

I'm interpreting "upgraded" as meaning a redesigned, aftermarket part which has now proven unreliable on two occasions. In contrast, my original 21 years old straight pipe lives on. Hmmm, interesting isn't it.

I can't help thinking that the problem lies with the aftermarket part rather than due to any other factor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADO282 View Post
I'm not convinced that the leak isn't originating where the two halves of the thermostat housing are welded together ...
When mine first leaked I reached the same conclusion as you have. The welded seam was covered in antifreeze residue. However, I removed the housing and filled it with water and could find no leak so I refitted it. I did fit a new 'O' ring though and guess what? The leak was cured. I then realised that the high pressure coolant was probably spraying upwards from the 'O' ring and depositing itself upon the widest part of the housing which happens to be the seam, thus completing the illusion.

If you can get hold of a genuine MG Rover straight pipe, try fitting that in place of your Rimmer Bros. "upgraded" item.

Simon
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Old 2nd September 2020, 20:32   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Hi Christopher,

I've just been reviewing your earlier post to try to understand your situation. You said that 18 months ago you fitted an "upgraded" straight pipe supplied from Rimmer's which split. It was replaced under warranty with an identical part and that you now have antifreeze residue in the 'V'.

I'm interpreting "upgraded" as meaning a redesigned, aftermarket part which has now proven unreliable on two occasions. In contrast, my original 21 years old straight pipe lives on. Hmmm, interesting isn't it.

I can't help thinking that the problem lies with the aftermarket part rather than due to any other factor.


When mine first leaked I reached the same conclusion as you have. The welded seam was covered in antifreeze residue. However, I removed the housing and filled it with water and could find no leak so I refitted it. I did fit a new 'O' ring though and guess what? The leak was cured. I then realised that the high pressure coolant was probably spraying upwards from the 'O' ring and depositing itself upon the widest part of the housing which happens to be the seam, thus completing the illusion.

If you can get hold of a genuine MG Rover straight pipe, try fitting that in place of your Rimmer Bros. "upgraded" item.

Simon

Hi Simon, the pipe I was supplied with to replace the failed one in the kit was a PEP101970.


The original kit was a PEM101050K, which I believed to be a genuine item rather than an aftermarket one, which included a temperature sender which I had been advised was a contributing factor in a cold starting issue the car had been suffering with.


When comparing the plastic parts at the time, the ones which I had removed had a smooth texture to the curved pipe, the straight and the housing.


The replacement parts had a slight texture to the finish on the pipework, but not the housing itself.
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