Sykes Flaremaster 2

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Blink

NB. Sykes do mention using Molyslip when using Flaremaster 2 on stainless steel pipes.

I can understand that having recently struggled to drill a hole through a stainless steel box section (non-automotive) even using HSS cobalt tools! But I'm still unconvinced that grease is necessary for soft copper alloy brake pipes.

Thanks for the feedback though Simon.

Simon

[clf]

Originally Posted by SD1too

I can understand that having recently struggled to drill a hole through a stainless steel box section (non-automotive) even using HSS cobalt tools! But I'm still unconvinced that grease is necessary for soft copper alloy brake pipes.



Thanks for the feedback though Simon.



Simon

The grease helps lubricate the die as it turns in the pipe. If it isn't lubricated, the flare can be lop sided (not always though). Certainly in all of the flares (din and sae) I have done with the trident type tool, this has been the case.

The flares are very nice too with it.



Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by clf

If it isn't lubricated, the flare can be lop sided ... Certainly in all of the flares ... I have done with the trident type tool, this has been the case.

I suppose that could be the difference between a £39 tool and the Flaremaster costing over £100.

Simon

[clf]

Originally Posted by SD1too

I suppose that could be the difference between a £39 tool and the Flaremaster costing over £100.

Simon

it could be, but I would still use some form of lubricant (even brake fluid) whilst using any flaring kit with a rotating metal to metal contact. It would reduce the risk of any tearing or sticking. Using the grease certainly leaves the flare smooth too. I wouldnt be as fussy if I was using a vice mounted one though.

The grease that comes with them appears to be rubber grease though that is used with some caliper refurb kits. (it tastes the same, the refurb kit doesnt say 'not' to eat it )

The Trident tools, I have to admit to being surprised by their ability, and neatness. If you have a need to do SAE and DIN, THIS looks to be reasonable value.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Here's a couple of photos ......

TC - I've borrowed your pic and added captions so it can be compared with my pic below

I've done the LH pipe (modulator to hose union). Now I'm working on the RH pipe, which should match this one.




I've used a piece of mains cable (red) to get a rough template.





There are two 4-way clips on the straight - one of them visible in the pic above.

Then there's a 1-way clip on the top of the chassis leg, near the aircon pipe - as shown in the pic below.





The question is - should there be another clip somewhere between the RH 4-way clip and the 1-way clip on top of the chassis leg?

If the answer is yes, it's not there on my car.

If the answer is no, there's quite a lot of unsupported pipe between the 4-way and the 1-way - and it includes exposed/vulnerable bendy bits .

[T-Cut]

Between the ABS unit and the wheel arch grommet, the RHS pipe is supported by three separate clips. There's the 5-way one near the ABS, which holds five pipes running together vertically. There's a similar 5-way clip nearer the middle of the firewall where the pipes are running horizontally. Then there's the single clip in the chassis near the grommet into the whel arch.

TC

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Between the ABS unit and the wheel arch grommet, the RHS pipe is supported by three separate clips. There's the 5-way one near the ABS, which holds five pipes running together vertically. There's a similar 5-way clip nearer the middle of the firewall where the pipes are running horizontally. Then there's the single clip in the chassis near the grommet into the whel arch.

TC

Ok, thanks TC - so the answer to my question is no, there's not another 1-way clip on the bendy section.

PS. I thought the two big clips were 4-way but you're right, they're 5-way. Like this one!



#4 here - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001567

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

Ok, thanks TC - so the answer to my question is no, there's not another 1-way clip on the bendy section.

There isn't but the bendy bit follows the shape of the firewall corner to the inner wheelarch panel and the single clip. Orginally, the pipe follows the panels from about 10-15mm off the surface, so should be no more vulnerable than the straight run across the firewall. I found the pipe was quite firmly located by the three clips because they all act in different planes. I actually slipped a piece of slit rubber hose onto the pipe where it turns onto the wing to prevent any rubbing.



I wasn't really necessary, but it made me feel better.


TC

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

...... Orginally, the pipe follows the panels from about 10-15mm off the surface, so should be no more vulnerable than the straight run across the firewall. I found the pipe was quite firmly located by the three clips because they all act in different planes. I actually slipped a piece of slit rubber hose onto the pipe where it turns onto the wing to prevent any rubbing.....

It wasn't really necessary, but it made me feel better.


TC

Maybe it just feels more vulnerable because I've only run mains cable, which is a tad more flexible than brake pipe.

I suppose I could always use rubber hose like you've done - or even stick an extra 1-way clip into one of these holes (assuming they're not there for something else that I've forgotten about).

[Blink]

I forgot to update this thread.

The wire template worked fairly well but only when I split it into two halves, a single piece being far too flexible. The first half runs from the modulator down through the first 5-way clip (the vertical one) and into the second 5-way. From that I made a direct copy in kunifer.

The second half of the wire template runs from the second 5-way clip (the horizontal one) up to the single clip, through the hole and down to the hose bracket. I made a kunifer copy of this one too.

I put both kunifer copies in their respective positions, marked a suitable joining point, took them out of the car again and taped them together. This gave me a single kunifer template to copy for the final one-piece pipe.

I got the final pipe right first time () but nearly made two big mistakes. The first was nearly forgetting one of the fittings, as TC did (post 5). I remembered just seconds before making the final bend. The second was almost cutting the pipe too short ( ). I got to the straight run down to the RH hose bracket and discovered there was only this much pipe to play with:



Just 7.5mm to spare - crikey!!