how long to clean brake piston and pads

[Robti]

Hi on the rear of my ZTT i am getting a squeal and overheating so hoping tomorrow to get the piston, pads and shims if it has them cleaned and greased, so need to do it on the roadside so how long should it take ?
Thanks

[ceedy]

A pad change is 20-30 mins per corner
With some wire brushing

[clf]

Originally Posted by Robti

Hi on the rear of my ZTT i am getting a squeal and overheating so hoping tomorrow to get the piston, pads and shims if it has them cleaned and greased, so need to do it on the roadside so how long should it take ?
Thanks

I know why you are asking, be careful of traffic, but just as important, take your time. It does take about 20-30 mins, if it all goes to plan. Simply though, it takes as long as it takes. Take your time and work logically.

[trikey]

Clamp off the hose and remove the caliper, at least then you can take your time and clean it up away from the roadside.

[macafee2]

put the wheel you are working on, kerb side

macafee2

[RoverP480]

Just what I was thinking, turn the car round between wheels so you always work at kerbside

[COLVERT]

I see that ROBTI posted on another thread today but no results about his brakes on this one.---

[edwardmk]

Originally Posted by MGJohn

I find old brake fluid very useful for cleaning piston seals in brake calipers. Apply with old brush, allow to soak for a minute or two, wipe clean with old cloth. Then use a G-Cramp or Piston Rewind tool to retract the very clean Caliper Piston and its fragile seal back fully into their Caliper Housing,. That will allow the nice Thick New Brake Pads to locate correctly. A wire brush in their lug slot locations on the carriers helps as does a thin application on Copper Based grease to the slots where the Pad Locating Lug locate. That will enable them to move smoothly as they wear down. Failure to do that can and does result in hugely irregular Pad Wear and twisting. Like this Rover's front Calipers I bought some years ago. The previous owner spent a nice few quid having new pads fitted.. probably the pads banged into the crud build up on the Carrier Lug Slots so unable to move smoothly. That along with failure to clean and grease the slider pins.

When buying a used car, no matter what the owner of seller tells me about the brakes having been serviced, I check the brakes asap at the first opportunity. Some of the things I found defy belief! This was the Rover's front caliper when I did the check. Note how the one Pad is tapered and worn irregularly and will soon make metal to metal contact. The opposing pad shows little wear ... Folks pay good money for that work... :~



I have seen Pads hammered into their slots in fast-fit outfits whilst waiting for a tyre to be fitted to my spare wheel. Those large windows in the waiting room are worth looking through rather than looking at the mobile.

No doubt this Brake Pad was fitted with big 'ammer assist.. Look at the trapped and broken location prong OUTSIDE the Piston ...

Lol. All four corners of my recently acquired ZT-T 190 look just like that. The worst were the driver side rears which were down to zero pad material. No MIL warning, just a sudden screeching of tortured metal.
I spent hours on YouTube, more hours reading the Haynes manual. I splashed out on a Proslip grease pack, STP brake cleaner, 5L new fluid ( way too much) and then crossed my Rubicon. I was way way slower than 30 mins a side reflecting my total inexperience with brakes and OCD. The previous owner had done a good job lubricating the pins and cleaning everything. The discs and the brake fluid looked fairly new. I thought I'd get away with not replacing my rear driver side caliper after giving it a careful clean and pressing it back making sure the bleed nipple was open so older fluid was bled out of the system on both sides. Looking today having driven less than 200 miles I'm already seeing grossly excessive wear of the new pads on the rear right. The rear passenger side has very little wear but is already slightly uneven. The original front pads are 70% gone with angular uneven wear.
I think I'm going to have to replace all four calipers as they are after all around sixteen years old. This might also partly explain why the consumption of the V6 is worse than my V8!
Any and all comments welcomed.

[Robti]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

I see that ROBTI posted on another thread today but no results about his brakes on this one.---

Sorry didn’t get anything done today but going down to my mothers tomorrow as my 800 is on her drive with my jack and tools in it and also hers is a quieter street to work on and as I just finished completely rebuilding the 800 brakes I can hopefully Manage these

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by edwardmk

Lol. All four corners of my recently acquired ZT-T 190 look just like that. The worst were the driver side rears which were down to zero pad material. No MIL warning, just a sudden screeching of tortured metal.
I spent hours on YouTube, more hours reading the Haynes manual. I splashed out on a Proslip grease pack, STP brake cleaner, 5L new fluid ( way too much) and then crossed my Rubicon. I was way way slower than 30 mins a side reflecting my total inexperience with brakes and OCD. The previous owner had done a good job lubricating the pins and cleaning everything. The discs and the brake fluid looked fairly new. I thought I'd get away with not replacing my rear driver side caliper after giving it a careful clean and pressing it back making sure the bleed nipple was open so older fluid was bled out of the system on both sides. Looking today having driven less than 200 miles I'm already seeing grossly excessive wear of the new pads on the rear right. The rear passenger side has very little wear but is already slightly uneven. The original front pads are 70% gone with angular uneven wear.
I think I'm going to have to replace all four calipers as they are after all around sixteen years old. This might also partly explain why the consumption of the V6 is worse than my V8!
Any and all comments welcomed.

Very unusual wear on the right rear pads. Obviously you had to push the piston back to fit the new pads. Did it move easily or not when pushing it back ?

To wear that fast the disc must have got very hot. Hot enough to smell it when you stopped.--