How to fit a front door finisher

Steve1966 · 16th October 2013, 11:51

I put this job off for 5 months because I wasn't sure of how all of the bits fitted together. When I finally did it I realised it is really easy and changed both finishers in less than a hour. I thought the following pictures might help to explain things a bit.

Rusty trim.

Peel back seal with finger.

Unscrew 3 screws securing finisher to door. Be careful not to drop inside door.

Start to pull finisher away from door.

Seal may be stuck firm inside channel so use a screwdriver to ease it out.

Pull remainder out by hand.

Pull finisher out, up and away from door.

Corrosion.

New part from Rimmers (less than £20!). Also, is less than half the weight of the original and appears to be aluminium.

Small amount of washing up liquid in the channel.

Place the seal in the channel and start to ease the finisher down into the door.

Be careful of catching the lip of the waist seal as you push the finisher down.

Make sure the rear edge is over the edge of the door.

Hold finisher in place and refit 3 screws. I placed the screw in the screwdriver and in one swift motion aimed for the hole. Tricky but no screws lost in door this way.

Run thumb along seal to refit.

Fitted finisher at bottom.

Slightly different finish in some lights but I haven't tried to Tcut 13 years of muck off the original rear finisher yet.

Hope this is clear and helps someone take the plunge.

Steve.

stevenicks · 16th October 2013, 12:39

Steve,
thanks for an informative, and well put together post. Mine are ok at the moment but if the need arises this would be very, very helpfull.

Regards
Steve

Rick-sta · 16th October 2013, 12:49

Great thread! my front passenger side one has rusted at one point and now has a hole in it so had been wondering how to repair this. Is it just as east to replace the back door one as it would be worth changing front and back so that they match in colour.

Rick

Parker · 16th October 2013, 12:54

Great How To! Copy preserved in the how to section, many thanks Steve

Steve1966 · 17th October 2013, 11:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick-sta

Great thread! my front passenger side one has rusted at one point and now has a hole in it so had been wondering how to repair this. Is it just as east to replace the back door one as it would be worth changing front and back so that they match in colour.

Rick

Hi Rick, Thanks for your comments. I don't know as I've never dismantled the rear one. I can't see why it wouldn't be exactly the same design philosophy. I still haven't cleaned up my rear ones but I never notice the difference now. It's only in very bright sunlight that it is more obvious.

Steve.

Arctic · 17th October 2013, 11:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve1966

Hi Rick, Thanks for your comments. I don't know as I've never dismantled the rear one. I can't see why it wouldn't be exactly the same design philosophy. I still haven't cleaned up my rear ones but I never notice the difference now. It's only in very bright sunlight that it is more obvious.

Steve.

Hi Steve.
Yes same as the front nice how to by the way cheers Arctic
http://www.75ztcommunity.co.uk/how-t...ars-t4337.html

pab · 17th October 2013, 14:12

I had the same problem on the front passenger door, corrosion had set in. The problem seems to be where the two pieces are welded together.

Nice How To by the way..

mh007 · 17th October 2013, 15:25

Yep, very nice how to.

I usually find the O/S front starts to rust first & I don't know about now but they were difficult to get hold of.

The other three were/are readily available.

Have done quite a few now (mostly O/S fronts !)

bl52krz · 17th October 2013, 20:14

No need for t-cut. I use Autoglym bumper care. Mine look new on a 2002 model.

suzublu · 17th October 2013, 20:16

Do you have to reply using the op

too many pics,again

16th October 2013, 11:51	#1
Steve1966 Loves to post 2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 436 Thanks: 66 Thanked 95 Times in 48 Posts	How to fit a front door finisher I put this job off for 5 months because I wasn't sure of how all of the bits fitted together. When I finally did it I realised it is really easy and changed both finishers in less than a hour. I thought the following pictures might help to explain things a bit. Rusty trim. Peel back seal with finger. Unscrew 3 screws securing finisher to door. Be careful not to drop inside door. Start to pull finisher away from door. Seal may be stuck firm inside channel so use a screwdriver to ease it out. Pull remainder out by hand. Pull finisher out, up and away from door. Corrosion. New part from Rimmers (less than £20!). Also, is less than half the weight of the original and appears to be aluminium. Small amount of washing up liquid in the channel. Place the seal in the channel and start to ease the finisher down into the door. Be careful of catching the lip of the waist seal as you push the finisher down. Make sure the rear edge is over the edge of the door. Hold finisher in place and refit 3 screws. I placed the screw in the screwdriver and in one swift motion aimed for the hole. Tricky but no screws lost in door this way. Run thumb along seal to refit. Fitted finisher at bottom. Slightly different finish in some lights but I haven't tried to Tcut 13 years of muck off the original rear finisher yet. Hope this is clear and helps someone take the plunge. Steve. __________________ Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total).

16th October 2013, 12:49	#3
Rick-sta This is my second home MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Norfolk Posts: 7,534 Thanks: 2,718 Thanked 2,827 Times in 1,462 Posts	Great thread! my front passenger side one has rusted at one point and now has a hole in it so had been wondering how to repair this. Is it just as east to replace the back door one as it would be worth changing front and back so that they match in colour. Rick __________________ How to retrofit Cruise Control on a diesel with no OEM wiring in place: Link How to retrofit heated electric memory seats with no OEM wiring in place: Link How to operate FBH and ATC via text Link How to restore cloudy projector headlights Link

16th October 2013, 12:54	#4
Parker This is my second home Jaguar XJ 3.0 V6 Auto (X350) & Hyundai Tuscon 2020 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 10,342 Thanks: 69 Thanked 559 Times in 356 Posts	Great How To! Copy preserved in the how to section, many thanks Steve __________________ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...a585a72d1c.jpg "The only thing to do with good advice is pass it on. It is never any use to oneself" SOME VERY USEFUL LINKS SIMPLE DOOR MIRROR REPAIR FITTING CROFT DOOR FINISHERS FORUM RULES CLUB SHOP Last edited by Dragrad; 14th February 2017 at 22:54.. Reason: Link added

17th October 2013, 20:14	#9
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,387 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	No need for t-cut. I use Autoglym bumper care. Mine look new on a 2002 model. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham. Last edited by Dragrad; 11th January 2016 at 00:01.. Reason: Over-quoting....

16th October 2013, 12:39	#2
stevenicks This is my second home MG ZT 180 Auto / Rover 75 2.0 Diesel Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Brecon. Posts: 7,465 Thanks: 3,297 Thanked 1,666 Times in 1,264 Posts	Steve, thanks for an informative, and well put together post. Mine are ok at the moment but if the need arises this would be very, very helpfull. Regards Steve

17th October 2013, 14:12	#7
pab Banned MG ZT V6 190+ Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Leeds Posts: 33,223 Thanks: 41 Thanked 1,614 Times in 1,416 Posts	I had the same problem on the front passenger door, corrosion had set in. The problem seems to be where the two pieces are welded together. Nice How To by the way..

17th October 2013, 15:25	#8
mh007 This is my second home MG ZT260 SE, MG ZT190+, MG ZTT 160, R75 Conn SE 2.0, R75 Conn SE 2.5 X 3, R75 Club SE 1.8, P5B Coupe Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Keynsham, Bristol Posts: 4,211 Thanks: 65 Thanked 635 Times in 499 Posts	Yep, very nice how to. I usually find the O/S front starts to rust first & I don't know about now but they were difficult to get hold of. The other three were/are readily available. Have done quite a few now (mostly O/S fronts !)

17th October 2013, 20:16	#10
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,912 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Do you have to reply using the op too many pics,again