Hub nut.......... GRRRRRRR!

[rab60bit]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

You know what they say------Bigger is always better.

I always use a socket with a straight bar through it. I then use a short length of tube on each end. This then applies an equal force to the nut and not just to one side which adds friction to the effort to undo it.

Make things easier not harder.---

If all else fails, wot he said.
Car on the ground and fully clear the locking tab washer!! 3/4" drive impact socket (because it's a full hexagon fit) and shortest (stubby) 3/4" drive straight extension you can find. Short HT bar thro' the extension drive hole and two bits of thick wall tubing (as close a fit on the drive bar as possible) about 2 feet long and a mate to lean on one side whilst you heave on the other - bit of teamwork should easily shift it.

[Mike Noc]

I have a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a 5 foot length of scaffold pipe for such jobs.

[cbr1100xx]

When I changed my hub last week my battery ryobi wouldn't touch it but my £19.99 air gun from lidl worked a treat , took it off in seconds.
I was impressed

Stan

[Saga Lout]

With the wheel off and the car secure, slide a piece of bar into the middle of the disc where it's vented, turn the disc until the bar touches the caliper and then use a breaker bar to stand on and crack the nut free. A word of warning to everyone, a breaker bar can snap so always wrap a cloth around one if you're planning to stand on it, it might just save you from shrapnel damage, another point to note is that standing on a breaker bar can put you on your backside when it gives and so, I've many times used dining chairs back to back to hold on to as a support.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by cbr1100xx

When I changed my hub last week my battery ryobi wouldn't touch it but my £19.99 air gun from lidl worked a treat , took it off in seconds.
I was impressed

Stan

I SAW THOSE IN LIDL A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO. I THINK YOU HAVE CONVINCED ME TO BUY ONE.---


Ooooops, left caps-lock on.

[cbr1100xx]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

I SAW THOSE IN LIDL A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO. I THINK YOU HAVE CONVINCED ME TO BUY ONE.---


Ooooops, left caps-lock on.

Or as someone once said to me , stop shouting when writing an angry message

Stan

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

I SAW THOSE IN LIDL A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO. I THINK YOU HAVE CONVINCED ME TO BUY ONE.---


Ooooops, left caps-lock on.

is it worth running up a compressor to undo few nuts and bolts and then to drain the compressor of air and water afterwards?.
Got rid of my air gun, not only could it not undo things I thought it a waste starting the compressor.

macafee2

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by macafee2

is it worth running up a compressor to undo few nuts and bolts and then to drain the compressor of air and water afterwards?.
Got rid of my air gun, not only could it not undo things I thought it a waste starting the compressor.

macafee2

I used to do all of that many years ago.--Now I just leave it full of compressed air as I tend to use it for other things like spray painting the150 metres of wall I have or the other 24 tyres on other items of gear I have.

The water never comes out at all rusty.

[jonc3725]

Reading with intrigue.

The way I always do the hub nuts and it's never failed me is with the following tools.

32mm socket 1/2 inch drive.
3ft breaker bar 1/2 inch drive.
Length of scaffold tube to extend breaker bar.
Axle stand
Space saver wheel.

1. Lift the Car and remove the front brake caliper and secure out the way. Knock out indent in nut collar.
2. Fit space saver wheel.
3. Drop car with all weight on wheel.
4.Fit socket to breaker bar and introduce to hub but.
5. Place nuckle of breaker bar onto axle stand set to right height. This gives you your level fulcrum.
6. Place scaffold overbreaker bar and pull. I tend to find breaking the torque is best done pulling down in the assbly rather than jumped up a Nd down.

This has never failed On any hub nuts I have met. I should have. Picture somewhere. I will Hunt it out.

No need for rattle guns at all in my experience.

Hope this helps

[clf]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

I used to do all of that many years ago.--Now I just leave it full of compressed air as I tend to use it for other things like spray painting the150 metres of wall I have or the other 24 tyres on other items of gear I have.

The water never comes out at all rusty.

does keeping it pressurised add strain to the receiver? Or add to any build up of moisture?

Re: the air gun, I found the Lidl air gun only just adequate fro the rear shocks, however, that will likely be more due to being hooked up to a 24l tank (8 or 9cfm). However, the lidl 240v electric gun, undid the suspension nuts in about 3 seconds!

The air gun was fine for the wheels, but needed a lot of air for anything more. I would guesstimate that it would be a minimum of 50 litres of a tank to make it worthwhile. The leccy gun though was overkill for the wheel bolts. It does have a fair kick to it. £30 well spent.