Clutch master cylinder - replace or not?

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by Blink

Rain has stopped play again.

PS. I still have questions A, B, E in post 57.

Good grief...

Step two (helps) prevent debris being flushed through, it is not essential.

It doesn't hold much at all, less than half a teacup.

Best to use 4 which is also suitable for the brakes.

[Blink]

Well that's blown it.

I couldn't get my bleed pipe contraption to join up with the gold 'quick release'* connector because it wouldn't go over the white split sleeve (I tried everything!). * The term 'quick release' is used sarcastically.

So I thought I'd take the sleeve off temporarily to see if anything else was jamming - it wasn't and the two halves slid together without any effort.



Of course now I can't separate them again because the rib on the gold half is locked in behind the ring of tangs in the yellow half and there's no way of releasing it again.



The only thing I can do now is buy a new master cylinder.

That's it - my patience has run out with this ******* money pit of a car.

[Kev75]

Can you split the ring to fit it on and release the coupling ?


Kev

[trikey]

Originally Posted by Kev75

Can you split the to fit it on and release the coupling ?


Kev

Sure can, the originals had a split in them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Kev75

Can you split the ?? to fit it on and release the coupling ?

Kev

Assuming you mean split the white sleeve, the answer is no, because dimension B is bigger than dimension A - hence there's not enough room to get it on, let alone slide it in.





I'd like to meet the idiot that designed this god awful coupling device.

Then I'd like to meet the other idiot who decided it was a good idea to put the MC right in front of (and touching) a vent tube, which it has worn a hole in all by itself. It's pathetic!

[Kev75]

Right now I have seen it can you cut some strips of thin plastic to push in around the coller? there is usually more than one way to skin a cat!!!(no animals were harmed in this idea)


Kev

[Daveluck]

sorry to hear your woes Blink...give it a day or so and try again.

kev's idea doesn't seem bad... or maybe cut down that white ring slightly and Jimmy it in?

I know it's disheartening but your almost there...keep going!!

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Kev75

Right now I have seen it can you cut some strips of thin plastic to push in around the coller? there is usually more than one way to skin a cat!!!(no animals were harmed in this idea)


Kev

Originally Posted by Daveluck

sorry to hear your woes Blink...give it a day or so and try again.

kev's idea doesn't seem bad... or maybe cut down that white ring slightly and Jimmy it in?

I know it's disheartening but your almost there...keep going!!

Thanks for the suggestions Kev and Dave.

I tried making a narrower/thinner sleeve from a heavy plastic document cover cut down to dimension A above. It didn't work - it wouldn't go in straight and jammed up on the skew. Cutting individual strips from the same stuff didn't work either - there are too many tangs and they all have to be pushed at the same time. Then I filed the white sleeve down so it fits dimension A. That didn't work because now it's not wide enough to reach the tangs and it if you try pushing it in further it just gets skewed again. So I've given up trying to rescue the situation and I've cut the pipe off at the bulkhead - good riddance to that dumb connector.

The MC fixings are just as bad (2 x M6x25 FS106257). They're so close the aircon pipes that you can't get a spanner onto the rear one. An 8mm socket on a ratchet is too big and a ring or open ended won't reach the rear bolt because it doesn't go round corners. That's probably why the rear bolt on mine wasn't tightened at all!

Rear bolt on the left here.



There was 30-35ml of fluid inside the MC. And five or six times as much muck as this underneath the rubber.



That paper towel is still soaking wet so the amount of muck is actually worse than it looks in the pic.

[HarryM1BYT]

Rather than cut that pipe close to the MC, an easier way would have been to tap the roll pin out. It is easy to push out, once the MC is released and pulled down. The roll pin retains the union on the end of the black plastic pipe.

You see in your photo, why I suggest the rubber diaphragm takes up so much fluid capacity in the MC and why I suggest cutting it?

[Blink]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

Rather than cut that pipe close to the MC, an easier way would have been to tap the roll pin out. It is easy to push out, once the MC is released and pulled down. The roll pin retains the union on the end of the black plastic pipe.

That wouldn't have solved the yellow/gold connector problem. - i.e. the two halves won't come apart, so the pipe is useless anyway (and so is my bleed contraption).



£124.10 down the drain.

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

You see in your photo, why I suggest the rubber diaphragm takes up so much fluid capacity in the MC and why I suggest cutting it?

I do.

The rubber diaphragm takes up so much volume in the MC there's hardly any space left for fluid.* Plus, you have to take it out to bleed the slave otherwise it'll block the fluid flow from the pressurised Sealey/Gunson.

(* I syringed just 30-35mm out).

There's a level marker inside the MC - presumably you're supposed to check it using a finger, or maybe detach one eyeball and dangle it over the damned cylinder.

What they should have done is this (post 12 diagram) - but that would have been far too sensible so they didn't bother.