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Old 7th October 2020, 15:20   #11
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I managed to make a passenger side height adjustment memory seat using parts from a RHD driver's seat and passenger seat. Only part I had to source which was hard to find was a LHD driver's seat switches pack.

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=287623
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Old 7th October 2020, 17:03   #12
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Thanks to all for your comments- I have thought it through a lot and basically feel what I am doing will be as safe as original Its a rise of the same amount as is achieved by the front height adjustment(they are electric seats) and the spacers bar is a 40by40mm box section, wall thickness 2mm and will run from back to front 14 1/2 inches long held by m10 long bolts into the original inserts or short bolts to the bottom of the spacer and through existing seat runner to top of runner and secured by nyloc or other nut- I have not decided. On the insurance company angle that is a personal choice but it did pass through my mind how many old cars have had the air bags renewed in line with the manufacturers recommendations. Chris S.
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Old 21st October 2020, 08:31   #13
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Ive completed the seat as projected and went for a drive and had happy noises from the wife throughout the 4hour drive which is a result. Its 40mm "up" and makes getting in and out easier and she commented on the better front view. I used M10 70mm 12.9 cap end bolts to secure the seat which now stand on the 40mmx40mm x2mm square steel section "riser" which runs 45cm length as per original runners. The riser was drilled 12mm holes top to bottom. But the bottom hole had to be enlarged to 18mm as the captive nut the seat bolts into also serves as a locating spigot and projects up and engages in the runners. All in all it was a lot easier to do than I expected. I will post details of the "fiddling" method later. Chris S.
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Old 24th October 2020, 12:37   #14
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As promised "the fiddling method" Note- my seats are electric. 1. adjusted the seatback rake as far forward as possible-concentrates the weight? 2.adjust the seat forward to reveal 6" of the seat rail. 3.Remove the L & R rear m10 set screws. 4. Adjust the seat back to reveal front L & R m10 set screws. 5. remove the front m10 set screws. 6. carefully adjust the seat forward to reveal 6" of seat rail(as per 2.above). 7.Place 4"H&6"L wooden chocks under the front seat rail which runs across avoiding the electric motor which is mounted centrally. Note: Under the seat is the Bowden cable for the seatbelt adjuster, this about 4" inboard of the outside seat rail and there are electric connection at about the same distance from the inside seat rail. So my "newrails" had to be inserted straight! under the seat frame from the rear to avoid fouling these two. 8. Inside "newrail" first- Gently tip the seat forward and slide the "newrail" under the seat rail, and gently tipping to the Left-when its about 2/3rds keep moving forward but now need match the two holes in the bottom of the "newrail" with the fixed threaded spigot nut. This done I inserted the 70mm set screw about two turns. Now I did the same with the outside "newrail" and again inserted the 70mm set screw. Make sure the four spigot nuts are in the "newrail" and engage the two rear set screws fully but do not tighten. 9. adjust the seat as far as it will go to the rear to reveal the front fixing holes. Engage the two front 70mm set screws. A bit of gentle pushing and pulling to make sure all is ok then tighten the 70mm set screws. Thats what I did. Part Two- Useless?useful information gained. Original fixing bolt is posidrive not Ribe. Bolt is M10, 35mm long with 20mmdia x5mmdepth head. Fixes into a captive bolt in chassis which is spigoted and this spigot (14mm od)? engages with a 16mm hole in a 8mm depth small reinforcing plate?which is fixed to the bottom of the seat rail. The bolts have Loktite on them. The fixing points are located on raised islands in the chassis skin and you have free space below the spigoted nut as follows : Front LH 60mm RH 70mm. Rear LH 65mm RH 42mm. I am still considering the merits of securing with eight(8) bolts as mentioned ie bolted to the floor through bottom of "new rail" and the seat then bolted to the top of the "new rail" ? Any stress Engineers who can help? Chris.S.
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Old 24th October 2020, 14:51   #15
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You’ll not add anything meaningful strength wise. One seat base fastener would be enough to secure an average person in a fatal crash as the load is shared between the seat and the belt anchor so the standard four is plenty. You could add more if you were totally insistent on doing so, but you would need a similar flanged nut with reinforcement plate on the body otherwise it would pull through.
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Old 25th October 2020, 10:37   #16
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I am wondering seeing that you have now created a void between the captive bolt in chassis and this spigot top, with the seat rail bolted to the square section , is there any chance of the bolt pulling through and out of the spigot? also now you have 30mm of bolt thread inside the void in an accident with force could the seat base move forward or rearward and bend those bolts ?
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Last edited by Arctic; 26th October 2020 at 10:44.. Reason: rectification
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Old 26th October 2020, 08:42   #17
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Good point- but not one Im able to test. Assume the in the original fixing reinforcing plate at the base of the rail engaged with the spigot nut and the 35mm set screw pulled it down tight onto it. Its interesting because the rail is only 1mm steel and of the 29mm available screw thread only about 20mm can engage with the spigot fixing nut! Have you ever been able to measure the spigot nut? I seem to remember some pictures of the seat completely removed revealing them and I thought it was on one of your threads? Chris S.
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Old 26th October 2020, 10:43   #18
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mileshawk56 View Post
Good point- but not one Im able to test. Assume the in the original fixing reinforcing plate at the base of the rail engaged with the spigot nut and the 35mm set screw pulled it down tight onto it. Its interesting because the rail is only 1mm steel and of the 29mm available screw thread only about 20mm can engage with the spigot fixing nut! Have you ever been able to measure the spigot nut? I seem to remember some pictures of the seat completely removed revealing them and I thought it was on one of your threads? Chris S.

Hi Chris.
No i have never measured the spigot nut, but i did think you maybe you could add a nut inside the square tube.

This i think you could do one bolt at a time, remove the bolt pass it through then add a nut hold it and tighten the bolt, once you reach the spigot carry on tightening down the nut should follow, you can then lock the nut inside down onto the spigot therefore the lower part of the tube is then bolted down also, hopefully you can picture what i am talking about.


PS maybe two nuts locking one under top of the tube also? below was minds eye view your your height square tube which i did yesterday.

Spigot fixed nut pointed out by orange dots.
1


This picture shows what meant by the bolts bending under pressure from forward movement, mark by red dots, not saying it will happen, just wonder if it could?
2


The picture i am trying to show the extra nut/nuts that maybe could be added into the tube? marked by green dots.
3
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Old 27th October 2020, 13:04   #19
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Its an interesting situation isnt it? There is the 8 nut fixing which I mentioned t one can use, a bit more fiddly and I didnt do that as I am a one man band and an old one at that and had to avoid getting into a situation where I needed a "third hand" and I hadnt got one. However now I have used 4 long bolts and the seat is fixed Im able to amend/alter/add as I wish because I have stability with the seat. Other information - my 18mm hole in the bottom rail need only be 16mm- no 16mm drill available! And the 4 locating spigots projecting through those 4 holes(16/18mm) prevent any sliding forward of the assembly to a great extent. It is possible to make up a locating plate as per originlal and weld it in position on the "newrail" its app. 23mmW x 25mmL x 10mm deep. and filling the "void" you mentioned but a welder is needed so not for me. My process was to make the alteration and keep it simple and as said (oneman)capable. Chris.S.
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