Climate control problems? - Page 2

SD1too · 12th October 2014, 21:36

Ian,

Have you tried running the ATC diagnostics which tests the flap servo control system?

When the heater matrix was removed, tested and replaced, was the cooling system refilled and bled following MG Rover's procedure which, for your V6 engine, involves raising the expansion tank? If this is not done, air locks can occur and tend to manifest themselves in the heater matrix. All your evidence seems to point to this possibility.

Your evidence in paragraph 1) suggests that the thermostat may be sticking open. Activate the IPK diagnostics to check the normal running temperature which should be in the mid nineties.

Turning the ATC "off" will send the flap servo motors to a rest position. You will therefore lose control of air temperature. This might explain why you're getting hot air. By all means drive with the windows open, but leave the ATC on in 'Econ' mode. Reduce the blower speed manually if it's a nuisance.

Simon

iandb1970 · 12th October 2014, 22:15

Simon,

As it was one of the experts on here who has looked at it previously I assume the right procedure was followed for refilling etc.

How do I run the IPK diagnostics for this? I suspect either the servo flaps (there are occasionally strange noises) or the running temperature is not correct/thermostat is sticking open.

Cheers, Ian

barry · 12th October 2014, 23:23

Like yourself I do not always use the Auto Climate Control and I too receive warm air through the eye level vents - cured as per Klarzy's reply, by selecting the CT on for a minute or two to reposition the flaps.
As per a subsequent reply these systems were designed i'm sure to be used at all times.
I would prefer the system I had in my long passed Montego actually.
Have to move with the times I guess.
Sorry unable to help with the other issues except to say that it is possible to hear the flaps operating within the system when the ignition key is turned on before a start.

SD1too · 13th October 2014, 08:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by iandb1970

As it was one of the experts on here who has looked at it previously I assume the right procedure was followed for refilling etc.

Why not check with that person, just to be sure? If they own a 1.8 or a diesel they may not have realised that the expansion tank should be raised as this operation applies only to the KV6. Here's the procedure.

Quote:

How do I run the IPK diagnostics for this?

Press and hold the 'Auto' button and the air distribution button whilst turning the ignition key to 'ign. on'. Perform the test in bright light to avoid a false reading for the sunlight sensor.

Simon

iandb1970 · 16th October 2014, 16:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

Why not check with that person, just to be sure? If they own a 1.8 or a diesel they may not have realised that the expansion tank should be raised as this operation applies only to the KV6. Here's the procedure.

Press and hold the 'Auto' button and the air distribution button whilst turning the ignition key to 'ign. on'. Perform the test in bright light to avoid a false reading for the sunlight sensor.

Simon

Simon,

Turned the ignition on while holding 'Auto' and 'Air distribution' buttons - everything flashed and then the ATC display flashed alternatively FC 21 and FC 22.

1) What does this mean?
2) What should I do next after entering the diagnostic?

Cheers, Ian

klarzy · 16th October 2014, 16:56

Either you did the test in the dark, or your sunlight sensor is inoperative.

suzublu · 16th October 2014, 16:57

Look here...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...hread.php?t=46

DMGRS · 16th October 2014, 16:59

I'm thinking it could be a blocked heater matrix to be honest - it certainly has the hallmark 'lukewarm air' aspect of this problem.

iandb1970 · 16th October 2014, 17:46

Yes, I probably did the ATC diagnostic when it was too dark - shall repeat tomorrow if we have some bright sunlight. The servos are certainly noisy.

However while you have been replying I took the car for a run while running the coolant temperature IPK diagnostic. It looks like a problem with the thermostat as:

1) Full 9 o'clock position on panel was reached with the IPK reading about 78 degrees

2) While driving the max varied between 88 and 90 degrees

3) Max reached at all was 96 when stationary for a few secs at some lights

4) When I got home I left the car running on the drive for a few minutes - the average was only just above 90 degrees and the cooling fan was at maximum (note it only reached about 94 in this time).

The questions now are:

1) Does this mean I need a need new thermostat?

2) Does this mean that I could have an air block in the coolant system through it being refilled incorrectly previously?

3) Does this explain the 'symptoms' I have described above with the lack of hot air / unexplained cool air?

4) Do people still think the matrix is blocked?

Thanks for all the help!

Paulym · 16th October 2014, 18:18

Not sure if I should mention this but is the same supply to the matrix routed through the oil cooler which basically means a blockage in one will effect the other not sure but........

I am sure there will be some who know better

12th October 2014, 21:36	#11
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,338 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	Ian, Have you tried running the ATC diagnostics which tests the flap servo control system? When the heater matrix was removed, tested and replaced, was the cooling system refilled and bled following MG Rover's procedure which, for your V6 engine, involves raising the expansion tank? If this is not done, air locks can occur and tend to manifest themselves in the heater matrix. All your evidence seems to point to this possibility. Your evidence in paragraph 1) suggests that the thermostat may be sticking open. Activate the IPK diagnostics to check the normal running temperature which should be in the mid nineties. Turning the ATC "off" will send the flap servo motors to a rest position. You will therefore lose control of air temperature. This might explain why you're getting hot air. By all means drive with the windows open, but leave the ATC on in 'Econ' mode. Reduce the blower speed manually if it's a nuisance. Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

16th October 2014, 16:56	#16
klarzy This is my second home none but not gone Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: March, Cambs Posts: 16,437 Thanks: 894 Thanked 4,247 Times in 3,025 Posts	Either you did the test in the dark, or your sunlight sensor is inoperative. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]….All praise Bananaswan….

16th October 2014, 16:59	#18
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	I'm thinking it could be a blocked heater matrix to be honest - it certainly has the hallmark 'lukewarm air' aspect of this problem. __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

16th October 2014, 18:18	#20
Paulym Loves to post Rover 2.5V6 Connie SE (White Gold) Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Rushden Posts: 378 Thanks: 166 Thanked 70 Times in 53 Posts	I know nothing Not sure if I should mention this but is the same supply to the matrix routed through the oil cooler which basically means a blockage in one will effect the other not sure but........ I am sure there will be some who know better __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] My own true Constance Boot Release Mod Walnut trims, Tail Light Seals & Torpedoes T4 Health check done (Thanks Mr T4 ) Real Walnut Dash (Thanks Paul D) Power Folds (one down one to go) Timing Belts Pump and Matrix Replaced (Phil T4) Bonnet release mod (Thanks Paul D) IPK De-lined (Thanks klarzy) New wheels (Thanks Paul D) Compensator, LED bulbs ABS Sensor and more(Thanks John H) Projectors (Thanks Paul D) Puddle light LED Strips Mods to do: Rear Spoiler?

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12th October 2014, 22:15	#12
iandb1970 Avid contributor Rover 75 Connoisseur SE Tourer 2.5 V6 Auto Hi-Line Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Highclere Posts: 233 Thanks: 30 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts	Simon, As it was one of the experts on here who has looked at it previously I assume the right procedure was followed for refilling etc. How do I run the IPK diagnostics for this? I suspect either the servo flaps (there are occasionally strange noises) or the running temperature is not correct/thermostat is sticking open. Cheers, Ian

12th October 2014, 23:23	#13
barry Regular poster mg zt 180 sport Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: auckland Posts: 50 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	Like yourself I do not always use the Auto Climate Control and I too receive warm air through the eye level vents - cured as per Klarzy's reply, by selecting the CT on for a minute or two to reposition the flaps. As per a subsequent reply these systems were designed i'm sure to be used at all times. I would prefer the system I had in my long passed Montego actually. Have to move with the times I guess. Sorry unable to help with the other issues except to say that it is possible to hear the flaps operating within the system when the ignition key is turned on before a start.

16th October 2014, 16:57	#17
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,911 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Look here... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...hread.php?t=46

16th October 2014, 17:46	#19
iandb1970 Avid contributor Rover 75 Connoisseur SE Tourer 2.5 V6 Auto Hi-Line Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Highclere Posts: 233 Thanks: 30 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts	Yes, I probably did the ATC diagnostic when it was too dark - shall repeat tomorrow if we have some bright sunlight. The servos are certainly noisy. However while you have been replying I took the car for a run while running the coolant temperature IPK diagnostic. It looks like a problem with the thermostat as: 1) Full 9 o'clock position on panel was reached with the IPK reading about 78 degrees 2) While driving the max varied between 88 and 90 degrees 3) Max reached at all was 96 when stationary for a few secs at some lights 4) When I got home I left the car running on the drive for a few minutes - the average was only just above 90 degrees and the cooling fan was at maximum (note it only reached about 94 in this time). The questions now are: 1) Does this mean I need a need new thermostat? 2) Does this mean that I could have an air block in the coolant system through it being refilled incorrectly previously? 3) Does this explain the 'symptoms' I have described above with the lack of hot air / unexplained cool air? 4) Do people still think the matrix is blocked? Thanks for all the help!