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5th February 2018, 00:27 | #11 |
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Hi John.
These photo's below may help with removal of the fuel line/rail without removing injectors etc. You should be able to prise out the securing clips which hold the rail to the injectors. Use a this blade screw driver. 1 2 3 remove each clip to the front injectors. 4 You should then be able to lift the rail enough to remove the metal fuel pipe. You do need to remove the two nuts also holding the rail, I know these photo's show the rail and pipes already off the car but hopefully it gives you the idea, that may help. 5 Here you can see a little barbed fitting holding in another metal clip which will help remove the fuel pipe so you can get to the O-ring further down the line. 6 Push the barb fitting then pry up the metal securing clip. 7 8 9 The fuel pipe is held in by another metal clip which you need to tease open to pull the pipe free. 10 Prise the clip outwards to release the fuel pipe. 11 12 13 With the pipe removed you will see the seal inside. 14 15 Below is a close up of the clips holding the fuel pipe etc I hope the photo's help you cheers Arctic. 16 17 18
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
5th February 2018, 00:37 | #12 |
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Sealing the V6 fuel rails is a right pain in the ar$e, new O rings and plenty of lube (Fnarr Fnarr) And you may have half a chance of being leak free.
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5th February 2018, 10:31 | #13 | |
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Great help
Quote:
Brilliant info.... thanks! If I read it right, I can see now the front fuel rail can be detached and lifted off the injector rather than having to remove the whole injector(s). And then, by removing the two front fuel rail securing bolts, it looks like there may be enough movement to allow access to that leaking O ring on the Interconnect pipe. I've also ordered O rings for the injectors so I can renew the "top" injector O ring. The other tip I picked up was to remove fuse 20 to isolate the fuel pump. Thanks again, fingers crossed... lube poised, Trikey! .... and I'll update to let you know how it goes. All I want now is a nice, heated, spacious double garage..... please... Cheers John
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13th February 2018, 00:47 | #14 |
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Cured !
Hi all.... an update on a successful cure to my Fuel Rail leak shown in earlier photos.
With the aid of the photos and tips provided by some wonderful folk on here, it was fairly straightforward... albeit a bit tense at times. In summary... - Fuse No 20 taken out so the fuel pump had no power.... just in case. - I (probably should have) disconnected the battery, but I didn't. - I (could have) run the engine after removing the fuse until it conked out, but didn't as in my enthusiasm I started dismantling before I remembered I could have ! - removed engine cover. Marked the coils/leads so indicate Left, Middle and Right - unplugged and removed the coils so they were out of the way - disconnected the wires and slid off the clips on the top of each injector - undid the two retaining bolts that hold the front fuel rail on - with a hair dryer, warmed up the left hand corner where the interconnecting pipe joins the front fuel rail. This was to avoid snapping off the small vertical retaining lug when removing the metal right angled clip. See photo - pulled the ends of the breather pipes out to give me more room to work with - gently prised up and removed that metal clip (see Arctics photos) - being very brave ... .... firmly pulled the fuel rail up off the 3 injectors. Small amount of petrol came out, but not a lot. - the rail was now free of the injectors, and there was enough movement to allow the rail to be pulled towards me, off the interconnecting pipe (as the metal clip was not there to hold it all together) See photo. - a very sorry looking O ring was found on the end of the pipe (see photo ... the offending O ring is on top of the rag on the right) No wonder it was leaking... - a new O ring, with a smear of vaseline on, put on the end of the pipe - 3 new O rings ... one for the top of each injector - 1 new O ring fitted in the End Cap, on the end of the fuel rail. - I didn't need to remove the joint at the right hand end of the fuel rail ... where the main fuel pipe feed comes in ... as there was enough movement already to allow the work on the left hand end (make sense?) If I had to undo that joint as well, I had a new O ring ready. - refitting everything was a reverse of above. Not tense at all and almost enjoyable ! Put fuse 20 back in. Turned the ignition on a couple of times so the fuel pump could build up pressure. No leaks. Started first time. Happy bunny! I've got the remaining O Ring Set in reserve now for when others decide to weep ! Hope the above helps someone else. Thanks again for everyone's previous advice. I love my car again .... now for those other jobs..... Happy Roving John
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13th February 2018, 02:14 | #15 |
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Hi John
Great news nice to hear you are up and running again, and thank s for reporting back it all helps others in the future cheers Arctic.
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13th February 2018, 11:52 | #16 |
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John,
Well done, the only comment I would make is the use of vaseline as a lubricant, having "in another life" tested the reaction of various rubbers with vaseline, I would seek a more appropriate material, probaly a silicon grease. |
13th February 2018, 12:21 | #17 | |
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Quote:
Yes, I wasn't sure about this myself. Other tips were to use (engine) oil, but a mechanically minded chap I trust advised using vaseline, I think because it is petroleum based therefore might "get lost" easier as the fuel goes through. Kinda made sense! Thanks, and regards John
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. My 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto 75 is the 20,516th 75 to be made out of 112,381 787th 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,671 1,248th Wedgwood Blue Metallic (code: JBH) to be made out of 7,515 code JBH 75's |
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14th February 2018, 10:54 | #18 | |
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Quote:
So, always best to check O-Ring Compatibility: https://www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-c...ty-chart-1.htm TC |
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21st December 2019, 04:54 | #19 |
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fuel rail clip
Big thanks to Artic for an amazing "how to" for removing the fuel pipe from the fuel rail. Are the yellow seals available?
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21st December 2019, 09:57 | #20 |
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All the seals are available (from forum traders, eBay, specialist o-ring suppliers on the web, etc.) but don't focus on colour. It's relatively meaningless and different colour pigments are used by different manufacturers. The important thing here is the chemical type of the rubber. As I've already described, get them in Viton and they'll provide excellent service. TC |
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