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31st January 2014, 04:48 | #1 |
Avid contributor
1999 Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur saloon Join Date: May 2007
Location: Carterton, NZ
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Front struts
I plan to replace the front struts (shock absorbers) How critical is it to go with the genuine units? Monroe units are considerably cheaper here. I also intend replacing the top bearings and link rods.
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31st January 2014, 07:43 | #2 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
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You're entering the world of brand loyalty here John. I find that the biggest problem with aftermarket shock absorbers/struts is understanding the parts catalogue. For any given model of car there's often a choice, and it's difficult to work out the difference between them. When I recently changed the struts on Mrs. SD1too's hatchback, Monroe's helpline was the most helpful and Sachs/Boge the worst.
The rear shock absorbers on my 75 are Delphi if I remember correctly, so it's likely that the front will be by that manufacturer too. If you buy Delphi from a motor factor* you will get the OEM part for a better price than with an MG Rover logo on the box. Simon * I've just noticed that you reside in NZ. Do you have independent motor factors there?
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 31st January 2014 at 07:51.. |
31st January 2014, 08:06 | #3 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 2.0 V6 Auto Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sandnes - Norway
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I mounted a pair of "KYB`s" a few years back. Works nicely. Price is good and I think the quality shall be OK (OEM) to. The same KYB front shocks are listed for all models if I remember correctly.
More here: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=429651 |
31st January 2014, 11:32 | #4 | |
Loves to post
2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Warwickshire
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Quote:
When my rear shocks needed replacing I got some low mileage ones from a scrapyard. The reason is simple: I was witness to tens of thousands of miles of damper (shock) tuning to give the silky smooth ride that we all love about our cars. It is a science, an art form, a compromise of all the types of roads/driving styles possible. Non OEM, aftermarket, or even (perhaps) aftermarket by the original manufacturer will not give the same ride performance as original OEM. If OEM are too expensive then good used is the way I go. Steve.
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Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total). |
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