Help: Locking Wheel Bolt Removal - Page 3

cb750chris · 12th June 2017, 18:49

It is possible to open the bonnet, without removing the wheel, just turn the steering to full lock to give yourself as much space as possible, this can be done without the engine running (but the steering is heavier).
Or if you can get to the inside fuse box, then you could put a spade clip on the end of your battery charger lead and use a permanent live fuse position to supply a low charging current (earth to any convenient point - the are a few earth points around there) but if doing this, use a charger limited to no more current than the fuse you remove (so if you use a 5 amp fuse position, make sure your charger will supply less than 5 amps)
Or the other option, if this is a tourer, is to open the drivers door with the key, then reach through and pull the inside door handle to unlock the rear door, then put the back seat down, then climb through in to the boot to get in to the cubby behind the number plate.

Hope one of the suggestions is helpful.
Chris

macmac · 13th June 2017, 12:14

Thanks everyone so far for your helpful comments.
I'll try that suggestion first, although locating the splines could be difficult.
I'll need to check if my (very good) socket set has the 'hex(6) sided socket' probably not.

I've recently bought an electric impact wrench, for removing wheel nuts.
This came with a 17mm socket, which is obviously designed for removing normal wheel bolts, so that may be a hex(6) sided socket, so I could possibly use that.
But would you use it with the impact wrench, or stay with a Breaker Bar?

But if that fails, which type would you go for (for removing the Rover 75 No:12 LB) ie:
a: Irwin Bolt Remover Socket, as shown in your pic, or
b: The reverse threaded type in the video.

Have you used the Irwin-Bolt-Remover on a No:12 locking bolt on a Rover 75?

For the remover to fit on the LB, there has to be enough clearance around the head of the LB and the recess in the wheel.
The Irwin Bolt Remover Socket seems to have a thicker wall (so a larger outside diameter) than the American video threaded type.

Many thanks.

macmac · 14th June 2017, 15:37

OK: I tried inserting the No:12 in the damaged OS LB, no good, splines are damaged to much!

So I need to buy one of these damaged-bolt-removers.

So does anyone know if both types will work (or which would work best) when removing the Rover 75 No:12 LB) ie:
a: Irwin Bolt Remover Socket, or
b: The reverse threaded type in the video.

NB:
For the remover to fit on the LB, there has to be enough clearance around the head of the LB and the recess in the wheel.

The Irwin Bolt Remover Socket seems more robust, but it looks like it has a thicker wall (so a larger outside diameter) than the American video threaded type.

Many Thanks

milford man · 14th June 2017, 16:29

His battery is as flat as a f**t.

Regards John

12th June 2017, 18:49	#21
cb750chris Trader Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Portsmouth Posts: 849 Thanks: 201 Thanked 292 Times in 200 Posts	It is possible to open the bonnet, without removing the wheel, just turn the steering to full lock to give yourself as much space as possible, this can be done without the engine running (but the steering is heavier). Or if you can get to the inside fuse box, then you could put a spade clip on the end of your battery charger lead and use a permanent live fuse position to supply a low charging current (earth to any convenient point - the are a few earth points around there) but if doing this, use a charger limited to no more current than the fuse you remove (so if you use a 5 amp fuse position, make sure your charger will supply less than 5 amps) Or the other option, if this is a tourer, is to open the drivers door with the key, then reach through and pull the inside door handle to unlock the rear door, then put the back seat down, then climb through in to the boot to get in to the cubby behind the number plate. Hope one of the suggestions is helpful. Chris __________________ Now offering T4 services in the Fareham area Replacement keys programmed / supplied / cut Diesel 135 upgrade available IPK virginisation and T4 matching available Sorry, due to a big change in home circumstances, I am unable to do any large jobs at present, but can still offer evening time diagnostics. Last edited by cb750chris; 13th June 2017 at 17:10..

13th June 2017, 12:14	#22
macmac Regular poster None Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Lichfield Posts: 55 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Thanks everyone so far for your helpful comments. I'll try that suggestion first, although locating the splines could be difficult. I'll need to check if my (very good) socket set has the 'hex(6) sided socket' probably not. I've recently bought an electric impact wrench, for removing wheel nuts. This came with a 17mm socket, which is obviously designed for removing normal wheel bolts, so that may be a hex(6) sided socket, so I could possibly use that. But would you use it with the impact wrench, or stay with a Breaker Bar? But if that fails, which type would you go for (for removing the Rover 75 No:12 LB) ie: a: Irwin Bolt Remover Socket, as shown in your pic, or b: The reverse threaded type in the video. Have you used the Irwin-Bolt-Remover on a No:12 locking bolt on a Rover 75? For the remover to fit on the LB, there has to be enough clearance around the head of the LB and the recess in the wheel. The Irwin Bolt Remover Socket seems to have a thicker wall (so a larger outside diameter) than the American video threaded type. Many thanks. __________________ 2002 Rover 75 Tourer 2.0 CDT 1950cc Auto Club 2004 Rover 75 1.8 Petrol Connoisseur SE Manual Tourer/Estate Last edited by macmac; 14th June 2017 at 09:59..

14th June 2017, 15:37	#23
macmac Regular poster None Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Lichfield Posts: 55 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	OK: I tried inserting the No:12 in the damaged OS LB, no good, splines are damaged to much! So I need to buy one of these damaged-bolt-removers. So does anyone know if both types will work (or which would work best) when removing the Rover 75 No:12 LB) ie: a: Irwin Bolt Remover Socket, or b: The reverse threaded type in the video. NB: For the remover to fit on the LB, there has to be enough clearance around the head of the LB and the recess in the wheel. The Irwin Bolt Remover Socket seems more robust, but it looks like it has a thicker wall (so a larger outside diameter) than the American video threaded type. Many Thanks __________________ 2002 Rover 75 Tourer 2.0 CDT 1950cc Auto Club 2004 Rover 75 1.8 Petrol Connoisseur SE Manual Tourer/Estate

14th June 2017, 16:29	#24
milford man Gets stuck in Jaguar XE Prestige Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Coventry Posts: 540 Thanks: 155 Thanked 109 Times in 101 Posts	His battery is as flat as a f**t. Regards John