Seperating front hub/strut

[EastPete]

I have been trying to remove the n/s strut on my car this afternoon, to sort my negative camber issue. Undid the drop link to ARB nut, cracked the lower pinch bolt/hub joint - the top hub pinch bolt put up quite a fight, but came out eventually. Started to tap the hub downwards with a plastic hammer, with a bit of levering under the brake hose bracket - it has gone down about an inch, but I am struggling to move it down further. Any suggestions on how to complete the separation ? I am wary of using too much force in case I damage something or the drive shaft comes out of the gearbox.

Thanks in advance

Pete

[FrenchMike]

Well Pete,seems to remember it's not so easy ...here a Jules'pict who
dismantles the assembly :



Safer may be ?

Mike

[wullie480]

On a 75 you need to remove the full away as per mikes pic iirc.
Not enough room to remove in situ.

[EastPete]

Thanks Guys

I have always been under the impression that as long as you can get the pinch bolt out (which I have done) , the strut can be removed without removing the whole hub assembly from the car - as per this 'How to' for the strut top bearings : http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=29073

Even if you take the whole strut/hub assembly off the car, you still have the battle of splitting the strut/hub, if you are going to replace the strut.

Cheers

Pete

[FrenchMike]

You know everything ,you only need a bit of luck

[Tourist]

Apologies Pete, I forgot to put in my post in the other thread - to get the hub off the strut you've got to separate the hub from the lower ball joint.

Put a Jack under the brake disc and take up a bit of the slack, then put length of chain around the lower suspension arm once you've undone the pinch bolt, then you can pass a long bar underneath, put a bolt through the chain to hold the bar and use the underside of the car to brace the rear of the bar while you push the front of the bar down. There are quite a few meaty bits of suspension you can use down there!

One the hub is free you can leave it on the car, just resting on the lower arm. There is then enough play to get the strut out.

Unclip the three hoses/wires from the tabs on the strut before you do any of that...

Enjoy!

[Daveluck]

Originally Posted by EastPete

Thanks Guys

I have always been under the impression that as long as you can get the pinch bolt out (which I have done) , the strut can be removed without removing the whole hub assembly from the car - as per this 'How to' for the strut top bearings : http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=29073

Even if you take the whole strut/hub assembly off the car, you still have the battle of splitting the strut/hub, if you are going to replace the strut.

Cheers

Pete

Pete,

They definatley do come away without taking the whole hub. That was how I replaced my struts and have just done it again to get the transmission out.

But you have remove the lower wishbone joint where it meets the hub. Plentynof release oil, a chain around it forming a loop, ( careful of the little gator) metal bar into the loop and hearty step down onto the bar.


Edit...doh! Should of read tourists post first...

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by EastPete

I have been trying to remove the n/s strut on my car this afternoon, to sort my negative camber issue. Undid the drop link to ARB nut, cracked the lower pinch bolt/hub joint - the top hub pinch bolt put up quite a fight, but came out eventually.

Look on the bright side Pete - you got the strut pinch bolt out.

Despite a good clean up and soaking in penetrating oil, and using an impact gun and surface drive impact sockets mine refused to budge, eventually rounding off the bolt head.

Next step is to weld a bigger nut on and then I can get the 3/4" drive socket set out, which along with the 5ft scaffold bar should shift it.

Often welding the nut on frees the threads up as they expand a bit with the heat, but we'll see.

This is on Mrs Noc's 75, and this could be the first time it has been undone since coming off the production line.

Having had one front spring fail thought I'd change both and fit tyre protectors - every little helps.

[RPWC]

When Colin changed my strut bearings,he used a copper hammer to knock the hub assembly off the strut. The top pinch bolt was incredibly tight, but plenty of lube, and just working the bolt back and forward, it came off.

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Look on the bright side Pete - you got the strut pinch bolt out.

Despite a good clean up and soaking in penetrating oil, and using an impact gun and surface drive impact sockets mine refused to budge, eventually rounding off the bolt head.

Next step is to weld a bigger nut on and then I can get the 3/4" drive socket set out, which along with the 5ft scaffold bar should shift it.

Often welding the nut on frees the threads up as they expand a bit with the heat, but we'll see.

This is on Mrs Noc's 75, and this could be the first time it has been undone since coming off the production line.

Having had one front spring fail thought I'd change both and fit tyre protectors - every little helps.

Good luck Mike - nice to know someone is going through similar pain at the same time as me !. I will be interested in how the hub/strut split goes for you when you get to that stage.

The top pinch bolt was very stubborn - I cracked it with a 6-sided 15mm socket on a 3 foot breaker bar after a good soak in releasing fluid - but it remained very tight almost to the end, so it was a slow process moving the socket around the breaker bar every quarter turn, and moving it a bit more, until I could start moving it with a long handle ratchet. I think when I do the other side, I might fire up the compressor and try the Ingersoll Rand impact gun to remove it - I did not think it was worth it on this side for one bolt !.

Keep us updated.

Cheers

Pete