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Old 16th May 2017, 17:31   #1
lesron
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Default drivers lower wish arm 2.0 diesel saloon

Fail on ball joint to hub
Garage had it in today to change wish arm and have had no luck with the tapered ball joint, they heated with oxy acyt, induction heater abd used vibrating gun but no luck.
Now its on my drive and before i go the change sub frame route think i might have a go but do i need to remove it from the hub and rear bush if i only wish to crack the taper ball joint , going to get some of this plus gas spray and some of this freezing spray , hoping i can find a long chisel, have it jacked up on the end of the ball joint at present , difficult to get a good purchase due to the angle
cheers
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Old 16th May 2017, 19:03   #2
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It comes out a lot easier with the full weight of the car on the wheel, ie the hub not hanging down in the air. It is all to do with the angle, not necessarily the tension on the taper.
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Old 16th May 2017, 19:13   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lesron View Post
Fail on ball joint to hub
Garage had it in today to change wish arm and have had no luck with the tapered ball joint, they heated with oxy acyt, induction heater abd used vibrating gun but no luck.
Now its on my drive and before i go the change sub frame route think i might have a go but do i need to remove it from the hub and rear bush if i only wish to crack the taper ball joint , going to get some of this plus gas spray and some of this freezing spray , hoping i can find a long chisel, have it jacked up on the end of the ball joint at present , difficult to get a good purchase due to the angle
cheers
Get the car on stands - spilt the outer ball joint/pinch joint at the bottom of the hub, then remove the two 18mm bolts holding the rear bush to the subframe. Then, it should be possible to manoeuvre the arm so you can get a bearing puller onto the inner taper joint into the subframe, or use a really large heavy-duty ball joint splitter to break this joint. This has always worked for me - it sounds as though yours is well and truly stuck, so pre-soaking in plus gas, then heating may be a good idea to help it on its way.

Someone posted on here a few months back about using a large hammer head between the arm and subframe to separate the joint using a jack.

Good luck - let us know how it goes

Pete
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Old 16th May 2017, 19:15   #4
lesron
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Not sure their would be that much room with the wheel on , maybe on a lift, used a cold chisel between arm and sub frame feel like it would come off leaving the ball joint behind.
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Old 16th May 2017, 19:46   #5
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This is how I cracked the balljoint taper on mine; both sides went with a few good whacks.

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=259434
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Old 16th May 2017, 19:47   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lesron View Post
Not sure their would be that much room with the wheel on , maybe on a lift, used a cold chisel between arm and sub frame feel like it would come off leaving the ball joint behind.
here you go

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...light=wishbone

good luck ;tell us ...
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Old 20th May 2017, 20:31   #7
lesron
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Finally got around to trying to remove it myself , compress the spring packed out the space between sub frame and arm , released pressure BANG , now ball joint seperated from wish arm , thought id try a 2 arm bearing puller but theres not enough contact arear when central to thre pin. Chucked:shrug all the tools in the garage loaded up the kayak and went to chartham weir with mates for a few hours of fun
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