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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:21   #21
Supervinnie40
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Maybe I'm saying something stupid, but why not run the wire underneath the car? There is a grommet in the boot for the parking sensor wires.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:22   #22
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Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
Maybe I'm saying something stupid, but why not run the wire underneath the car? There is a grommet in the boot for the parking sensor wires.
You could do, but if the wire is not tucked away under the car you run the risk of it gattling split by road debri.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:55   #23
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You really really really want to run a new cable from the battery.

Like really really.
Exactly that
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:58   #24
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I have always used a direct from battery install, but in saying that for some reason rover has made it IMPOSSIBLE (not that I haven't succeeded )to get through the firewall
You can get through the firewall from the drivers side and down in to the pedal box area. There is even a grommet there already
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Old 23rd January 2014, 22:00   #25
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Maybe I'm saying something stupid, but why not run the wire underneath the car? There is a grommet in the boot for the parking sensor wires.
You can indeed do that, if it were me I would put the cable in a conduit and use p clips to secure it to the bottom of the car so it can't be caught or snagged.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 22:00   #26
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Would you happen to know if it's the same with LHD?
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Old 23rd January 2014, 22:01   #27
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Would you happen to know if it's the same with LHD?
I would assume its the same but on the left side not right
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Old 23rd January 2014, 22:03   #28
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I'll have a look tomorrow. Running it underneath the car would be easier to install, but more risky. Doing it through the car would be a bit more difficult, but might be safer.

I've already made a little panel with a 12v connection and 2 XLR connections. That way the sub is easily removable.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 22:06   #29
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Because....?
Depending on the amp you install they can draw a heck of a lot of current to run them.
If you think your 55watt head light bulbs flatten a battery quite quickly imagine what a 1000watt amp could do
The bottom line is that none of the cars wiring is really heavy duty enough to deal with the larger amp installs you could have.
So it makes sense to go straight from the battery with a decent gauge cable suitable to handle the current.
Remember it is only the positive cable you need to run from the battery
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Old 23rd January 2014, 22:09   #30
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True, but even though the amp i fuses at 30 amps it shouldn't exceed 420 watt.
Make me wonder how much the wiring in the car can handle without problems.

My sub won't even use that much, I turned it down at half power because the speakers couldn't handle it .
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