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3rd January 2012, 18:55 | #11 |
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And after another two hours on full charge, the battery is full to bursting but the car doesn't want to know.
To complicate matters, I thought it might be worth checking the immobiliser itself for any signs of damp or corrosion. I have seen posts on other threads stating that the immobiliser is located behind the plastic panel next to the throttle pedal, and the Haynes manual confirms this, so I carefully removed said panel but cannot see any sign of the immobiliser! Someone on another thread said that there is a thick red and white cable going into and out of the immobiliser but I can't see that either! Is there any possibility that the immobiliser could be located somewhere else on my car? |
3rd January 2012, 18:59 | #12 |
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i might be wrong and probably am but i think the immobiliser is either the same thing that u plug the diagnostic machine into looks similir to a scart cable under the drivers side dash or it is close to it pretty sure thats what the monk borrowed out of mine when he was fixing some one elses car on the T4.
Andy
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car is a 2000 REG 2.0 V6 connie long list of work done so long cant fit in signature so here is the link |
3rd January 2012, 19:22 | #13 |
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The immobiliser is mounted on the A pillar and is secured by two torx 5 point security bolts.
Access is difficult and requires removal of the lower dash panel and the bracket securing the diagnostic socket. If the car has a sunroof one of the sunroof drains is located just above it and have been known to leak but as you haven't got one then this rules out as a potential cause of the problem. If your immobiliser has given up the ghost I may be able to ressurect it if it's not too damaged Russ
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3rd January 2012, 19:29 | #14 |
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Just a thought: I think I read somewhere that the immobiliser recognises the key by means of a coil behind the ignition switch - is it possible that the coil could have been damaged?
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3rd January 2012, 19:31 | #15 | |
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Quote:
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car is a 2000 REG 2.0 V6 connie long list of work done so long cant fit in signature so here is the link |
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3rd January 2012, 20:39 | #16 | |
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Quote:
This begins to sound like a job for someone who knows what he's doing. Sadly, we don't have any Rover agents in York now, for obvious reasons. Obviously, I wouldn't expect anyone to do this as a favour, but does anyone know of anybody in the trade who is near enough to York to come and look at this for me and might be willing to do so? |
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3rd January 2012, 20:44 | #17 |
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other thing is check all your fuses i knew of a clio that had a simula problem where it would not deactivate the imobaliser and it was a blown fuse
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3rd January 2012, 20:47 | #18 |
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Torx keys are similar to Allen keys but are star shaped as opposed to hexagonal. The security bit refers to them having a hole in the middle to allow for a small rod in the head of the bolt so a normal torx key won't fit.
Mike |
3rd January 2012, 22:55 | #19 | |
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Quote:
Looking at the diagrams in the manual, I can't see it being any of the fuses under the bonnet. In the fuse-box conveniently located underneath the glove-box, I've checked fuses no. 7, 17, 26 and 27, all of which appear to be intact. None of the others appears to be a likely suspect - unless anyone knows differently? |
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3rd January 2012, 22:58 | #20 |
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well at least it rulled it out for you keep fingers crossed it will be a easy fix
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http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...y%20se/sig.jpg spoilt as i own a cdt auto connoisseur se cdt auto member 829 mods so far synergy 2 heated washer jets cant really add anything else as it has it all lol
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