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Old 30th November 2019, 09:41   #11
T-Cut
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Originally Posted by thanos.m View Post
Also have a couple more questions use semi-synethtic or fs 10w-40 - - - -
I'd like to use a 10w-40 fully synthetic in my 1.8T, but I've not found one as yet. Has anyone got a link?

As for hydraulic tappet noise, I suppose the lower cold viscosity oils will tend to drain from the internal piston more easily than will a standard one. And no doubt over time, the ball valve mechanism will fatigue and more easily lose hydraulic lock. Having removed and dismantled all eight of my inlet side tappets, I noted they can take quite some time to re-establish themselves. As I understand it, the hydraulic tappet treatments (Wynns, etc) are basically oil soluble detergents which promote better 'washing' of the internal valve mechanism. Adding one is a bit like using a diesel engine oil. These are formulated with higher levels of detergent/dispersant additives than typical petrol engine oils. In cases of a stubborn tappet, I found that running for a few hundred miles with a 10w-40 diesel oil is equally equally effective.

A further thing to remember after working for a while on any petrol engine is that the canister purge valve will activate shortly after you start the engine. In my experience, this cycle will repeat for quite a while, apparently depending on how saturated the vapour canister gets during the car's layoff. Those unfamiliar with its sound will likely mistake it for a very noisy tappet.

TC

Last edited by T-Cut; 30th November 2019 at 11:14..
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Old 30th November 2019, 15:34   #12
thanos.m
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
I'd say you'd be wasting your time and money. Your engine will benefit from Comma Flush Out as I've already said.

Renew it.

Simon
Thanks a lot for your replies Simon,
Would you reckon after using engine flush to use a cheaper oil for a few miles before putting the Mobil 1 in just flush out any remaining sludge and engine flush ?
Reagrds
Thanos
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Old 1st December 2019, 10:16   #13
SD1too
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... Simon, would you reckon after using engine flush to use a cheaper oil for a few miles before putting the Mobil 1 in ...
I don't subscribe to the premise of "cheaper oil" versus brand marketing Thanos. My view is that so long as it meets the ACEA A2 or A3 specification, which all oils will these days, it will do its job. I use Granville 10W40 which happens to be the cheapest available from my local motor factor. But you must do what you feel is right.

Simon
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