Exhaust fitting - V6

[Blink]

I'm fitting a new intermediate section and back box. The system that's on is the original one-piece from the factory so it'll need cutting just behind the cat, somewhere near the red line in pic below. Just wondering if it's possible to do this on the car, or does front section need to come off.



If the front end does need to come off I'll need new manifold gaskets & nuts etc. Btw, shouldn't there be two gaskets - Rimmers says only one is required. #2 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001940

[trikey]

You should be able to refit the old gasket I have reused the exhaust gasket on a V6 numerous times.

Only one gasket required as well.

The job is easier done with the full exhaust on the floor as you can lay the new one on top of the old one and ensure the measurements are correct.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by trikey

You should be able to refit the old gasket I have reused the exhaust gasket on a V6 numerous times.

Only one gasket required as well.

The job is easier done with the full exhaust on the floor as you can lay the new one on top of the old one and ensure the measurements are correct.

Ok, thanks Andy. How tricky is it to reach the nuts at the manifold end? I haven't actually seen them yet due to the rain (and the undertray is still on).

I'm having to do this on my own so I'm a bit worried about lifting the new intermediate into place and holding it there while I line it all up. The new piece isn't going to balance on a jack so I might have to bolt a tunnel brace back on to take the weight (all three braces are off at the moment). The car is on blocks so there's not much room to crawl around under the cat end of the system - in fact there's virtually no room at all!

[M17TT]

I used one of those chain link cutters and did it in situ

[Arctic]

Hi Matt.
Did the chain wheel cutter give a neat cut finish, are they the ones you have to work backwards & forwards, or did you use this type below.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-P...d/262424326111

[M17TT]

It was the one you work back and forwards with lots of cutting wheels, left a very neat, tidy and straight cut. The one I got was for upto 3mm wall thickness but if I was doing it again I'd get one that cuts slightly deeper as the last few rotations were right at its limit.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by M17TT

I used one of those chain link cutters and did it in situ

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Matt.
Did the chain wheel cutter give a neat cut finish, are they the ones you have to work backwards & forwards, or did you use this type below.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-P...d/262424326111

Originally Posted by M17TT

It was the one you work back and forwards with lots of cutting wheels, left a very neat, tidy and straight cut. The one I got was for upto 3mm wall thickness but if I was doing it again I'd get one that cuts slightly deeper as the last few rotations were right at its limit.

I bought one of these in September and it won't cut the pipe between the rear box and the bend in front of the rear subframe. There are only two chain links that will form a loop that's close to the right pipe size (57mm OD) - one is too loose and the wheels don't cut the pipe, the other is too tight to hook the chain into position. Is yours the same design Matt?

I also bought one of these to remove the old back box rubbers and it turned out to be useless because the prong on the tool won't stay on the tapered tips of the hangers (it flies off as soon as any force is used) and the handles are so far apart that they're impossible to grip anyway. I had to resort to cutting the rubbers off.

Talking of mounting rubbers, I bought a pair of these for the back box - they seem to be the same size & shape as these ones from Rimmers. The problem is the tapered ends of the hangers are far too wide to go through the holes in the rubbers. I can't even get one of them on (with or without grease).

Btw, I spotted this yesterday. Hmm. Half the price of this. Tempted.

[M17TT]

This is the one I bought and worked fine
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F152680752939

[chris75]

From my own experience , I'd urge a bit of caution when choosing rear hanger rubbers . I have tried alternative makes twice now and found that although apparently similar size they were too "soft" , with the result that the exhaust bounced and played a clonking tune on the cross-members . Expensive ones from Rimmers cured the problem

[Blink]

Originally Posted by M17TT

This is the one I bought and worked fine
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F152680752939

That's got exactly the same number of pins and cutting wheels as mine (14). Hmm.