Rear upper link bush removal woes!

smudge.g · 17th October 2018, 12:59

Well, after having acquired an as-new rear subframe and all attached arms etc, i am trying to removed the rusty and worn parts off my car, The problem that I am having is removing the upper-link bolt/bush from where the rear upper arm joins the hub. I was delighted to get the nut off with no real issues but the bolt seems to have welded itself into the bush, the centre of which just spins with the bolt and no amount of bashing will remove the centre ball part with my bolt in it! My question is - can i remove this bush/bolt at home or will it need use of a garage to push/pull the bush out? I have a heavy duty ball-joint removal tool which I have yet to try (due to crappy weather and work) but not sure if these are suitable for this kind of operation. Any thoughts? (car is on axle stands and i dont have access to gas torches etc to heat things up.)

Andy_with_a_screwdriver · 17th October 2018, 18:58

See my post #8 on this thread https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=288524
and follow link to thread on bush puller.

Also Jim Jamieson's is a very good thread.

Also follow link to find out more https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=283734

If you are replacing the lot then cut the old arm/bush away with a hacksaw or better still a disc cutter. You can then get the trailing arm in a more convenient position and then drill and cut away whats left of it. looking at my photo I had similar trouble getting it off before i b ought a puller. You will most definitely need some bush pulling tool to put the new in though. hope that helps

smudge.g · 18th October 2018, 18:38

Many thanks Andy - great posts. The issue i have is that the centre of the bush and bolt wont budge and this is my main problem at the moment. i dont know how to get them out as the bolt has welded itself into the bush ball joint part! Looks like I might have to remove the whole hub to help with this, then there's the other side........!!!

wullie480 · 18th October 2018, 18:53

I had this when I went to change mine over.
I cut through the bolt at either side of the bush to free it from the upper wishbone, removed and renewed the bush.
I think you may have to do the same.

marinabrian · 18th October 2018, 19:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by smudge.g

Many thanks Andy - great posts. The issue i have is that the centre of the bush and bolt wont budge and this is my main problem at the moment. i dont know how to get them out as the bolt has welded itself into the bush ball joint part! Looks like I might have to remove the whole hub to help with this, then there's the other side........!!!

Pull off the rubber gaiters with a pair of pointy nose pliers, grind a pair of flats onto the tube part of the bush, then cut off the hex of the bolt.

Lube the threaded remainder of the bolt with grease, refit the nut and put an open end spanner on the bush flats and pull up the nut as tight as you can and using a 10mm parallel drift and a mash hammer give the cut end of the bolt a good whack.

Tighten the nut and repeat

Once you have the bolt out, you can replace the rose joint, you will need something like THIS to replace THESE

Brian

Mike Noc · 18th October 2018, 23:28

If you can't hammer it out - and I've had one that wouldn't budge, then Post #16 here may help.

apgandy · 28th October 2018, 01:08

I did these on mine and just heated the ball joints with a blow torch and knocked the ball out as the cups are nylon and melt with a bit of heat! once they were out continue heating the outside around the mounting then hammer a socket onto the shell that is left to push them through. bought a bearing pull to install new bmw items which are identical. Never had seized bolts on mine but if I did then I would have cut them off with an angle grinder for speed. Heat in the right place to expand the metal works wonders.

Rev Jules · 28th October 2018, 06:42

I can appreciate that sometimes money can be a pain at not having it, and doing it yourself is the next best thing, but not having the facilities or easy access such as a ramp and cutting tools it becomes a pain in the harris?, if you do have sufficient funds let a garage deal with it.

Rev

smudge.g · 28th October 2018, 18:56

Thanks guys. I did manage to get the innards out, leaving just the metal surround of the bush left. Despite cutting through this in a couple of places with a hack saw, it just wont budge. I did try making a puller with a long coach bolt and large sockets but the bolt head snapped off!! Even tried applying some heat with the wife's cookery blow torch (dont tell her!!) but its still stuck. The other side also has the bolt jammed in but i havent dismantled the bush yet, but it is very worn and loose, so will probably need removing too!
Away from home now for a month so it will have to wait until end Nov to sort.

apgandy · 29th October 2018, 11:35

Sorry to hear about your troubles but I found removel of the shell just heat on the outside but you need to get yourself a blow torch! cheap enough these days or borrow one then I think it was a 29 or 30mm socket and short extention and while heating the outside try not to heat the shell as you want the mount to expand then with 4lb hammer hit the socket ext square on hard and it will begin to move. Just plenty of heat and persistence.

18th October 2018, 18:38	#3
smudge.g Gets stuck in 75 Tourer CDTi Connie SE Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Keith, Banffshire Posts: 686 Thanks: 431 Thanked 132 Times in 105 Posts	Many thanks Andy - great posts. The issue i have is that the centre of the bush and bolt wont budge and this is my main problem at the moment. i dont know how to get them out as the bolt has welded itself into the bush ball joint part! Looks like I might have to remove the whole hub to help with this, then there's the other side........!!! __________________ My 75 Tourer CDTi was born Saturday, 21st June 2003 @ 09:50 My 75 was the 18,749th 75 Tourer to run off the production line, out of 27,407 It was the 195th 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 2,074 and the 1,789th 75 Tourer in Wedgewood Blue Metallic (code: JEL) to be made out of 1,871 Wedgewood Blue Metallic 75 Tourers

18th October 2018, 18:53	#4
wullie480 This is my second home 1 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Banned Posts: 5,195 Thanks: 528 Thanked 1,022 Times in 786 Posts	I had this when I went to change mine over. I cut through the bolt at either side of the bush to free it from the upper wishbone, removed and renewed the bush. I think you may have to do the same. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

28th October 2018, 18:56	#9
smudge.g Gets stuck in 75 Tourer CDTi Connie SE Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Keith, Banffshire Posts: 686 Thanks: 431 Thanked 132 Times in 105 Posts	Thanks guys. I did manage to get the innards out, leaving just the metal surround of the bush left. Despite cutting through this in a couple of places with a hack saw, it just wont budge. I did try making a puller with a long coach bolt and large sockets but the bolt head snapped off!! Even tried applying some heat with the wife's cookery blow torch (dont tell her!!) but its still stuck. The other side also has the bolt jammed in but i havent dismantled the bush yet, but it is very worn and loose, so will probably need removing too! Away from home now for a month so it will have to wait until end Nov to sort. __________________ My 75 Tourer CDTi was born Saturday, 21st June 2003 @ 09:50 My 75 was the 18,749th 75 Tourer to run off the production line, out of 27,407 It was the 195th 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 2,074 and the 1,789th 75 Tourer in Wedgewood Blue Metallic (code: JEL) to be made out of 1,871 Wedgewood Blue Metallic 75 Tourers

29th October 2018, 11:35	#10
apgandy Regular poster 75 tourer Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: cruden bay Posts: 51 Thanks: 19 Thanked 19 Times in 12 Posts	Sorry to hear about your troubles but I found removel of the shell just heat on the outside but you need to get yourself a blow torch! cheap enough these days or borrow one then I think it was a 29 or 30mm socket and short extention and while heating the outside try not to heat the shell as you want the mount to expand then with 4lb hammer hit the socket ext square on hard and it will begin to move. Just plenty of heat and persistence. Last edited by apgandy; 29th October 2018 at 11:38..

17th October 2018, 12:59	#1
smudge.g Gets stuck in 75 Tourer CDTi Connie SE Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Keith, Banffshire Posts: 686 Thanks: 431 Thanked 132 Times in 105 Posts	Rear upper link bush removal woes! Well, after having acquired an as-new rear subframe and all attached arms etc, i am trying to removed the rusty and worn parts off my car, The problem that I am having is removing the upper-link bolt/bush from where the rear upper arm joins the hub. I was delighted to get the nut off with no real issues but the bolt seems to have welded itself into the bush, the centre of which just spins with the bolt and no amount of bashing will remove the centre ball part with my bolt in it! My question is - can i remove this bush/bolt at home or will it need use of a garage to push/pull the bush out? I have a heavy duty ball-joint removal tool which I have yet to try (due to crappy weather and work) but not sure if these are suitable for this kind of operation. Any thoughts? (car is on axle stands and i dont have access to gas torches etc to heat things up.) __________________ My 75 Tourer CDTi was born Saturday, 21st June 2003 @ 09:50 My 75 was the 18,749th 75 Tourer to run off the production line, out of 27,407 It was the 195th 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur SE (135) to be made out of 2,074 and the 1,789th 75 Tourer in Wedgewood Blue Metallic (code: JEL) to be made out of 1,871 Wedgewood Blue Metallic 75 Tourers

18th October 2018, 23:28	#6
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	If you can't hammer it out - and I've had one that wouldn't budge, then Post #16 here may help.

28th October 2018, 01:08	#7
apgandy Regular poster 75 tourer Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: cruden bay Posts: 51 Thanks: 19 Thanked 19 Times in 12 Posts	I did these on mine and just heated the ball joints with a blow torch and knocked the ball out as the cups are nylon and melt with a bit of heat! once they were out continue heating the outside around the mounting then hammer a socket onto the shell that is left to push them through. bought a bearing pull to install new bmw items which are identical. Never had seized bolts on mine but if I did then I would have cut them off with an angle grinder for speed. Heat in the right place to expand the metal works wonders.

28th October 2018, 06:42	#8
Rev Jules This is my second home Rover 75 Tourer+ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Radcliffe on Trent Posts: 10,711 Thanks: 7,308 Thanked 3,929 Times in 2,051 Posts	I can appreciate that sometimes money can be a pain at not having it, and doing it yourself is the next best thing, but not having the facilities or easy access such as a ramp and cutting tools it becomes a pain in the harris?, if you do have sufficient funds let a garage deal with it. Rev