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Old 5th November 2016, 11:09   #41
Neil1
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MG ZT-T CDTI Auto

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Goodness me that is a substantial list.

I have a list of what has been done but it sure doesn't look like that.
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Old 5th November 2016, 12:06   #42
Ravinder
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Rover 75 saloon x2, Rover 75 Tourer x2, Rover 220 Coupe Turbo

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Phenomenal. I've had many ups and downs in my diesel but I do love driving it.
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First name and forum name: Ravinder

Rover 75 2.0 CDT Connoisseur SE 116 (160 remap)
Royal Blue (JFM)

This vehicle was the 50,481st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
This vehicle was the 2,238th 75 CDT Connoisseur SE to be made out of 3,775
This vehicle was the 5,002nd 75 in Royal Blue (code: JFM) to be made out of 14,420 Royal Blue 75s
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Old 5th November 2016, 18:14   #43
MSS
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Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2

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Thank you gents.

Rav - life would be boring without the ups and downs!


Keep in there.
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Old 18th May 2017, 06:18   #44
MSS
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Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2

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Default 55k mile update

The car has now covered 56k miles since our purchase just over 4 years ago.

With much work done over our first two years of ownership, all it has required during the past two years is just normal servicing (filters, oil change etc. and the PCV).

Having sold my daily drive - a 45td - to a member the CDT is now my daily drive and covers about 50 miles each day.

It remains absolutely reliable and a pleasure to drive.

My mid-life major maintennace approach has certainly worked with this one (as well as my Omega that is now 18 years old).
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Old 26th November 2017, 19:49   #45
MSS
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Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2

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Default 5-year update

It is now 5 years and 60k miles since we purchased this 75 CDT. The total mileage is coming up to 142k and this year I had a number of further items replaced. The list below has been updated accordingly.

Here are all the things done to date (starting point 82k miles):
  • Engine flush with Millers 5W40 oil followed by new oil of the same type (done, then subsequent oil change at 6k miles)
  • All service filters (done)
  • PCV filter replacement (done)
  • Joules plenum guard installation (done)
  • New OEM thermostat and coolant replacement (done)
  • Battery replacement with Bosch S5008 (done)
  • Rear light seal replacement (done)
  • Head/foglamp bulbs replaced with Nightbreakers (done)
  • MAF (new one purchased but the T4 showed the old one in spec, so added the new one to the parts collection for future use)
  • Brake discs, pads, fluid change (New genuine MGR disks/pads/sensors all around - done)
  • Handbrake compensator mod (done)
  • Intercooler vitron rings (no leak, so not done)
  • Radiator fan resistor replacement (done)
  • Clutch - 3 piece kit including CSC (Luk set already purchased - not installed as already had replacement LUk fitted - added to collecion of parts for future use)
  • Clutch master cylinder (done - it appears the previous owner had not replaced at the same time as the clutch)
  • DMF plus new bolts (Luk DMF purchased, added to collection for future use)
  • Lower engine mount (done, using OEM item)
  • Replace lower arm rear bushes (done, using Unipart items)
  • Replacement of lower arm balljoint covers (done - the covers were damaged -probably at the time of the clutch replacement)
  • Track-rod end replacement (done)
  • Clean and waxoyl brake pipes (done)
  • Clean and waxoyl suspension components (done)
  • Clean and waxoyl all key bolts/nuts under the body (done)
  • Clean and waxoyl fuel tank straps (done)
  • Bonnet mod (done)
  • Tie steering reservoir fluid pipe out of the way for aircon pipe (done)
  • 4-wheel alignment (done)
  • T4 session including brake bleed (done)
  • Install tyre protectors on struts (done).
  • Replace front springs (done - installed sachs springs)
  • Replace strut top bearings (done - SNR)
  • Replace front drop links (done - Delphi)
  • Replace rear springs (done - Sachs)
  • Replace rear dampers (done - OEM Delphi)
  • New tyres fitted all around
  • 4-wheel laser alignment (done)
  • Replace PAS pump & fluid flush (done - PAS pump had developed a slight leak)
  • Replace drive belts (done)
  • Replace fuel filter again (at 30k miles from last- done)
  • Replace PCV separator filter again (at 30k miles from last - done)
  • Oil and filter changes at 7.5k mile intervals
  • Air filter changed at 25k miles from the last change (done)
  • Alternator replaced with a fully rebuilt one (rebuilt by Ipswich based firm Nacton Auto Electrical)
  • Replaced diesel filter head due to fuel pressure senor issue throwing up EML intermittently.
  • Installed starter motor contact replacement kit
  • All other filters and PCV separation filter replaced at <15k miles since the last change.
  • Front windscreen replaced with new.
  • Oil and filter changes every 6k miles.
  • Fitted Pirelli P7 Cinturato's all round
Work during June 2017.


  • Replacement of rear brake pipes with Kunifer for the straight runs and copper for those with tight bends. Front pipes are fine so cleaned and coated in grease.
  • Both outer track rod ends replaced.
  • The other side drop link had developed slight play so that has been replaced with a Delphi part. The Delphi drop links have lasted over 43k miles each.
  • Exhaust system developed a leak in the rear box and the complete system, from cat back, replaced with Klarius.
  • Service.
This was Mrs MSS' car but is now my daily driver as she enjoyed her Twintop during the summer months.

Last edited by MSS; 24th February 2019 at 17:57..
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Old 27th November 2017, 09:00   #46
Ed3
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Is the diesel fuel cooler under the rear o/s wing is missing from the list?

I am concerned about my fuel cooler as they are at a windy spot to do it's work, but catch rain and can rust. It seems to need preventative maintenance to stop the bracket rusting, and to check if the matrix and various pipes are deteriorating.

I have only just bought a Rover 75 and so not yet familiar with the fuel tank layout but usually we rust proof the seams/lips of any fuel tank and if the top of the fuel tank can collect moisture, to drop the tank and rust proof it.
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Old 27th November 2017, 11:35   #47
grivas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mss View Post
This will be a bit long so bear with me.

We tend to maintain our cars in tip-top condition. So, as the wife's 02 plate 75 CDT was coming up to 90k miles last year, we had the clutch, slave cylinder, master cylinder, both diesel pumps and all brake discs/pads replaced with genuine MGR items. The idea was that apart from regular servicing, we should not have to worry about any of the major service/maintennce items for the next 80k+ miles. Then during September, a TD4 came out of a side road and inflicted over 8k's worth of damage to the CDT as it went past on the A140. It basically ripped the side off and there was no hope of saving the 75.

Er Indoors will not have anything else whilst 75's are still available (I did suggest a Berlingo) so we got an 05 plate Connie SE CDTI with 82k miles, leather etc.



I am now starting the preemptive maintenance process again so that functionally she will have as close to a new 75 as possible.




So, the following will get replaced as a matter of course over the next 3-4 months:
  • Engine flush with Millers 5W40 oil followed by new oil of the same type (done)
  • All service filters (done)
  • PCV filter (done)
  • Joules plenum guards (done)
  • New OEM thermostat and coolant replacement (done)
  • Battery replaced with Bosch S5 (done)
  • Rear light seal replacement (done)
  • Head/foglamp bulbs replaced with Nightbreakers (done)
  • MAF (next - on order from Germany)
  • Brake discs, pads, fluid change (Genuine MGR disks/pads/sensors already purchased)
  • Handbrake compensator
  • Intercooler vitron rings and radiator fan resistor upgrade
  • Clutch - 3 piece kit including CSC, plus master cylinder (Luk set already purchased)
  • DMF plus new bolts (Luk DMF already purchased)
  • Lower engine mount (OEM being ordered)
  • Any bushes or other items needing replacement...
The clutch/DMF work will carried out by Terry at tsauto - I'm just waiting for some nicer weather so that whilst the car is with him, I can do a day's walking. Terry will also carry out a full check on the car to identify anything else that needs addressing.

My thought is now turning to what else is likely to need attention over the next few years that can be taken care of during the next 6-9 months. My thoughts are as follow:

Replace lower suspension bushes with new set from Joules
Replace front lower wishbones (OEM)
Replace suspension links (OEM or Delphi)
Replace rear suspension links (OEM or Delphi)

I can't think of any other suspension related items that would wear/perish with time and mileage (ignoring springs and dampers).

What else do you think would be worth doing at the same time as the above suspension items?

Thanks in advance,

Maninder.
Hey, don't take this the wrong way, you are clearly very fond of the cars, and wish to keep them in top condition, that is perfectly fine, however, you perhaps need to really ask yourself the question, do I need to carry out ALL these measures, it will be an expensive waste to change items which are not faulty for the purpose of preventative service, chances are the originals will be of a superior quality.!

In any case my advice for what is worth, stick to the recommended services, change the things that are needed, and above all enjoy driving the car, remembering that it will not be long before diesel car are banned in the U.K., and we all be driven about by nothing more exciting than a battery on wheels.
Again you decide after all you will be spending YOUR money, so do whatever you think is best for you, good luck. Personally if I was doing what you propose, it will be with the intention to donate the car/s to a museum.! All the best.
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Old 27th November 2017, 14:45   #48
macafee2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grivas View Post
Hey, don't take this the wrong way, you are clearly very fond of the cars, and wish to keep them in top condition, that is perfectly fine, however, you perhaps need to really ask yourself the question, do I need to carry out ALL these measures, it will be an expensive waste to change items which are not faulty for the purpose of preventative service, chances are the originals will be of a superior quality.!

In any case my advice for what is worth, stick to the recommended services, change the things that are needed, and above all enjoy driving the car, remembering that it will not be long before diesel car are banned in the U.K., and we all be driven about by nothing more exciting than a battery on wheels.
Again you decide after all you will be spending YOUR money, so do whatever you think is best for you, good luck. Personally if I was doing what you propose, it will be with the intention to donate the car/s to a museum.! All the best.
I don't agree it is a waste of time. Deal wit some of the nuts and bolts that are known to rust and seize now so when you do need to remove them due to a fault and you may be short of time, the nuts and bolts come away easily.

macafee2
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Old 27th November 2017, 15:07   #49
roverbarmy
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Anybody working their way through a similar list should be using products from these guys:-
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/
I've used them for years on my classic trucks, cars and bikes to good effect. I understand that the ACF refers to aircraft carrier formula because that is what it was developed for. If it works under those conditions, it works.
One word of warning - keep it off your brakes!!!

See my sig for the works that I have done!
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Last edited by roverbarmy; 27th November 2017 at 15:10..
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Old 27th November 2017, 15:15   #50
suzublu
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rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue

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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
Anybody working their way through a similar list should be using products from these guys:-
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/
I've used them for years on my classic trucks, cars and bikes to good effect. I understand that the ACF refers to aircraft carrier formula because that is what it was developed for. If it works under those conditions, it works.
One word of warning - keep it off your brakes!!!

See my sig for the works that I have done!
Always have a tin of ACF in the shed Used it for years on the bikes & now on the car
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